RIPSNZ Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 Why don't you guys get together, make up an order of 5 or 10 sets or something and I'll send you a belt, idler and tensioner kit with a template and instructions on relocating the tensioner, its really very simple. nzd230 a set for 5 sets including shipping nzd210 a set for 10 sets including shipping Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted August 15, 2007 Author Share Posted August 15, 2007 Why don't you guys get together, make up an order of 5 or 10 sets or something and I'll send you a belt, idler and tensioner kit with a template and instructions on relocating the tensioner, its really very simple. nzd230 a set for 5 sets including shipping nzd210 a set for 10 sets including shipping Rob Rob, I understand you're trying to help, and it may be frustrating to hear people penny pinch... but I (as well as almost everyone I know) like to save money where I can. Especially when I'm sure some parts are available more locally than across the globe. The shipping costs alone of getting the tens/idle pulleys from you would be the price of what I could get one of the tensioners for here. If I was buying your rebuild kit, then sure, shipping wouldn't matter to me. As most of the parts are not available here, or not that I know of (im sure different people have different sources, but not all together). I don't know of 5 people to warrant the expense of buying these kits, or I don't think I'd come across 5 people fast enough for me to make my money back in order to use it for things like your lightweight flywheel, which is one of the top items on my list, since I don't think I've found a better alternative thus far. I'm not trying to take money or business away from you, I'm just trying to make it easier for people in North America to grab their parts locally by introducing belt numbers and such that are compatible. Thus the reason why I did a search and found that we no longer have to order Dayco 94407 belts, as they are the same as the Gates T291 (that took quite a bit of sleuthing). The Dayco 94407 is only from ONE engine, and we never got that 1.7 litre Mazda Diesel. But nowhere does it mention that 152 teeth, 8 mm pitch, 1216 mm long, and 25 mm wide is the exact same as the AEB A4 Quattro 1.8T engine belts. Not even on the cross-reference guide. But infact, it is exactly the same. I even found that the GT2 Powergrip is not a viable solution, even though it's said to be an option in SAU, CALAISturbo, and on Cubes' guide. I SPENT money buying that GT2 Powergrip belt, to find out it didn't work, and that I can't use it. How many people need that same belt? Probably no one that will buy it from Ebay, that's for sure. And I can bet you that if they are buying it from eBay, it's for an RB30 conversion in the US, and I bet I'd get questions about it's fitment... and to them I would say "no, it wont work, that's why I'm selling it" I don't want other people to have to go through the same mis-information and spend money in places where it could be used better. If I bought two belts that didn't work, that would total roughly 100 bucks US. I can put that towards better parts, seeing as those belts would be useless to me. The bottom line is that I just want to see people advance, rather than go backwards. Losing money is a setback, don't you agree? I'd like to help people build nice cars in any way, shape, or form that I can. And I'm sure you do too (well obviously you do, since you're trying to give us a good group buy), but as an individual, it's a little harder. Same goes for the RB30 ARP Main stud kits. For a company like ARP, I shouldn't have to go through someone in Australia to get these kits, seeing as from what I know, ARP products are made in the USA. Know what I mean? It's just a vicious circle that doesn't make much sense, to me, anyway... Raff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIPSNZ Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 It's just a vicious circle that doesn't make much sense, to me, anyway... Raff Yeah, tbh, you don't make alot of sense to me either. You seem to have been spending a huge amont of time messing around trying to re-invent the wheel, (or at least find a cam belt that is on a domestic model) the cam belt thing is old news and very easy to sort out. I buy alot from the US and I don't spend days and days messing round trying to save a couple of bucks looking for the same parts in NZ, if they are available and proven I get them if the price is fair. Your talking about a AU$120 (about nzd140) belt on the previous page, then you have to get it shipped to you. I'm not sure if you understand what I was including for nzd230. A brand new high quality cam belt, tested, proven on RB30det A brand new idler bearing A brand new tensioner bearing A template to show you exactly where to put the stud for the tensioner and instructions on doing the install of the stud and the belt, and I'll ship it to you, all for nzd230 (about usd175) How much do you guys pay for the idler and tensioner bearings? Then, if and when you find a belt, are you going to be the ginea pig who tries and tests it on your own car? Are you then going to be sure that the relationship between the crank gear and the exhaust cam gear is correct so your cam timing is within spec? Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted August 16, 2007 Author Share Posted August 16, 2007 Yeah, tbh, you don't make alot of sense to me either. You seem to have been spending a huge amont of time messing around trying to re-invent the wheel, (or at least find a cam belt that is on a domestic model) the cam belt thing is old news and very easy to sort out. I think you missed the part where I mentioned that I'd like to be able to walk to the store to get my parts. Rather than pay shipping on an already marked up item (you mark them up from whomever you buy them from, or you would not make money), I'd go to a friend of mine who works at a Toyota, Nissan, GM dealership to get parts at nearly cost, while saving on shipping to. Or i'll go to a place called Motorcade, where another friend works, and they sell aftermarket replacements, and he gets an even better discount. Re-invent the wheel? no. I'm trying to buy the same rounded wheel from someone who can supply it at a reduced price. Is there something seriously wrong with that? I buy alot from the US and I don't spend days and days messing round trying to save a couple of bucks looking for the same parts in NZ, if they are available and proven I get them if the price is fair.Either you have a lot of money, or little time. Or a combination of both. I have the inverse of whatever you have, so therefore, I can take my time and find parts that will cost me less. Your talking about a AU$120 (about nzd140) belt on the previous page, then you have to get it shipped to you. I'm not sure if you understand what I was including for nzd230. A brand new high quality cam belt, tested, proven on RB30det A brand new idler bearing A brand new tensioner bearing A template to show you exactly where to put the stud for the tensioner and instructions on doing the install of the stud and the belt, and I'll ship it to you, all for nzd230 (about usd175) How much do you guys pay for the idler and tensioner bearings? Again, read my comments above. I have friends that can get me what I need, so long as I tell them EXACTLY what I need. I.E. - Part numbers or direct replacement equivalent numbers. That includes both timing belts, idlers, and tensioners. I think I can successfully find where to put the idler. It doesnt have to be within 0.1 mm of the location, seeing as it uses a tensioner that can be shimmied to either side for compensation of slack. I see the water galleys as being the only thing to look out for, and since it's 9 mm deep, I think I can handle either breaking through and locking the stud with some teflon tape, or just cutting the butt of the stud and threading it to 7mm. So being that I don't want to pay 175 US + shipping to get what I could get for say... 115 dollars Canadian, total, I think I can live with the savings. That's half my water pump money. Then, if and when you find a belt, are you going to be the ginea pig who tries and tests it on your own car?Correct me if i'm wrong, but the person who initially found that the dayco belt would work (which seems to be a tested and proven belt if not noted as the most used belt for RB30 swaps) tried it on his car, and reported with success. So, granted that the Dayco 94407 belt has everything EXACTLY identical to the T291 belt, do I have much to worry about? belt spec sheet is the same as the dayco, as I have a dayco belt that came on my RB30 from the SOHC. And the T291... it's 0.5 mm thicker and has a strengthened core. Are you then going to be sure that the relationship between the crank gear and the exhaust cam gear is correct so your cam timing is within spec?The belt is the same as the Dayco. So do I have to worry about this? It wraps around the crank gear completely, and wraps around a friend's stock RB25 cam sprocket. RB26 cam sprockets have the same tooth profile, don't they? And again, exactly the same as the Dayco from all the guides or users I've seen. Again, I know your offer is a good one, and it's probably better for people like you that want to get stuff done and delivered and over with. But I don't know if you noticed... A lot of the cars on this site are quite the long project, and have a lot of time put into research and cost savings to get them to be where they are today. My engine will proceed in the same fashion. So thanks for your input, and your offer, and your concerns about my choices, but I will just use my T291 belt, and get my tensioners from a local outfitter. I am willing to learn from mistakes, and I will let everyone know if I make one, because i'd have to post it here to correct my belt chart, wouldn't I? I don't want people to go through the problems that I do, based on my recommendation. That's not cool at all. But then again, I did buy the GT2 belt based on a false recommendation, and I'm not sour about it. And I am also not afraid to apologize or admit defeat, so when my belt breaks and I smash 24 valves, you can make an animated GIF of yourself pointing at my screen name and laughing if you so desire =) Deal? Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sky76line Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 hi all for rb30/26 rb30/25 use belt bando sts 250s8m 1200 .pistons use sr20det flat top and pushbrones 22m from sr to rb30 c.rod i use that stuff in may rb30/26 . but i use costum made carrillo con.rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted August 16, 2007 Author Share Posted August 16, 2007 hi all for rb30/26 rb30/25 use belt bando sts 250s8m 1200 .pistons use sr20det flat top and pushbrones 22m from sr to rb30 c.rod i use that stuff in may rb30/26 . but i use costum made carrillo con.rod I'll look into the Bando belt series. Thank you. My main goal is to get Gates to offer this belt in North America, since skylines are getting popular here, and RB30's are coming over now too. They should atleast allow you to make a special order from a distributor. Gates is a racing type belt, and it's stronger than any OEM replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sky76line Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 jun use this belt for rb30/26 i order it befor 5 years from jun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted August 16, 2007 Author Share Posted August 16, 2007 jun use this belt for rb30/26 i order it befor 5 years from jun where is your tensioner located? did you redrill the location above the water pump? is the belt thick or like a regular belt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sky76line Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 stock no drill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted August 16, 2007 Author Share Posted August 16, 2007 Bando 250S8M 1200 = 1200mm = 150 teeth, stock location 1208 = 1208mm = 151 teeth, might require redrill 1224 = 1224mm = 153 teeth, might work as well, maybe too loose Is the Bando belt strong compared to regular belt? thicker? better material? 5 years you've been running it now? how is the condition of the belt with visual inspection? Thank you for adding your belt specs, very much appreciated. =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted August 16, 2007 Author Share Posted August 16, 2007 Looks like for automotive use, Bando has TB291 for 152 teeth, like the Gates T291. They also have TB306, for 150 teeth, with stock tensioner/idler location. And this belt you speak of must be for high-rpm Machinery, and not automotive. It may be what we're looking for in regards to a suitable replacement for the way overbuilt Gates PowerGrip GT2. If I could use the GT2, I would, cause it's a strong belt. Perhaps this one is good too. Do you take any pictures before you installed it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sky76line Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 same the stock one and same brand the car for drag race and and my broject not finish yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted August 16, 2007 Author Share Posted August 16, 2007 same the stock one and same brand the car for drag race and and my broject not finish yet. I called a bando distributor in Canada. They don't have this belt, but i was told it is no recommended for automotive use... =/ It is not intended to be used in a high heat engine bay, such as an automotive environment I called Gates Australia, and I've been talking to a marketing specialist in getting their new belt to be available in the US, since the RB30 is getting more popular here. People with RB25's and 26's in their canadian skylines (now legal for a couple of years now) are sometimes opting out for the larger displacement of the RB30 when their engines start to let go, or need a rebuild... so it just may happen after they've tested the new belt. Updates as they come =) Raff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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