naviathan Posted July 26, 2007 Author Share Posted July 26, 2007 Ok I connected it to the car and I'm getting nothing on pin 36 when it's detached from the coil. It seems the tach wire is putting out 12V however. Pin 36 just seems to bounce around while connected. I ohmed out the wire to the DB37 and it's fine. I ohmed it to all the other wires and I'm not getting anything. Nothing to ground either, but with the MS connected and key on I'm not getting anything. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted July 26, 2007 Author Share Posted July 26, 2007 Ok I just Ohmed out my harness. I'm getting good grounds where there's suppose to be grounds and I'm getting my hot on pin 28 as I'm suppose to, but I'm getting bleed over on the fuel pump relay and the injectors. When I key on I'm getting 12V at all the injector leads and at the fuel pump lead on pin 37. Should I be using diodes in here? I know the nature of a coil is to read 12V until the ground is switched and it activates so I assume these readings are accurate. Am I correct in this thought? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted July 26, 2007 Author Share Posted July 26, 2007 I tried disconnecting all my sensors, injectors and relays except the EFI relay and still, nothing on pin 37. I'm utterly confused. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 Ok I just Ohmed out my harness. I'm getting good grounds where there's suppose to be grounds and I'm getting my hot on pin 28 as I'm suppose to, but I'm getting bleed over on the fuel pump relay and the injectors. When I key on I'm getting 12V at all the injector leads and at the fuel pump lead on pin 37. Should I be using diodes in here? I know the nature of a coil is to read 12V until the ground is switched and it activates so I assume these readings are accurate. Am I correct in this thought? The fuel pump relay is turned on by the ECU when it grounds pin 37. So unless the engine is running, you will see close to 12V on pin 37. If the ignition is on, and the engine is not running, pin 36 should have a positive voltage on it if it is connected to the coil. Without the coil connected, there should be a high resistance between pin 36 and the chassis (with the power on). Try starting it, and put your finger on the VB921. If it starts to get real hot, turn off the power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted July 27, 2007 Author Share Posted July 27, 2007 Got it, that sounds more like what I'm getting. Does it matter that the tach wire is putting 12V to the negative side of the coil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 Is the coil still connected to the ignition switch? If so, that is where the 12V is coming from on the tach input. A coil (inductor), looks like a piece of wire to direct current (DC), so that is why you see 12V at the tach input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted July 27, 2007 Author Share Posted July 27, 2007 I replaced my FP Relay driver (ZTX450) with a 2N2222 from Radio Shack. I'm now getting a fuel pump LED on the stim again so hopefully this will be the last screw up I make. Seems I'm slowly rebuilding my MS-II one blown component at a time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted July 28, 2007 Author Share Posted July 28, 2007 Ok I apparently need some serious help here. The ignition settings are killing me. I have an adjustable timing light so it helps to see where things are at. The only way I can get the thing to start and stay running is to open the throttle plate as much as I can with the adjustment screw and set the Trigger Advance at 40*. It's a very high idle and the car warms up quick, but the plugs are black and sooty. When I put the adjustable on and MS is saying to set at ~23* I can get my timing mark back to 0 by turning the adjustable to 57*. Ok so the way I see it, it wants 23*, roughly, so if I set the trigger advance from 40* to 74* {(57* - 23*) + 40* = 74*} It should work right? Negative. Nada zip zilch. As soon as I change my Trigger Advance it stumbles and dies. Ideas? Is my thinking accurate? I'm no mathematician, but I'm not horrible at math. Maybe I'm just looking at this wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HizAndHerz Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 I replaced my FP Relay driver (ZTX450) with a 2N2222 from Radio Shack. I'm now getting a fuel pump LED on the stim again so hopefully this will be the last screw up I make. Seems I'm slowly rebuilding my MS-II one blown component at a time. If it makes you feel any better, I had the same issue with the FP driver. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121743 I sure hope you get your ignition problem figured out soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted July 28, 2007 Author Share Posted July 28, 2007 You know it's really weird, I can build these ECUs all day long and not have a problem, but trying to get one working in a car is just insane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted July 28, 2007 Author Share Posted July 28, 2007 The more and more I think about this the more I keep thinkg my trigger offset should be somewhere around 0. At TDC with my timing mark on 0 and all things right, my rotor points directly at the number one plug position on the cap. If the Advance table is changing the timing accordingly then I should have to do nothing more than set it at 0 and make all adjustments in the advance table. Why is it not like this? Can someone please explain this concept so I have a better understanding of it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted July 29, 2007 Author Share Posted July 29, 2007 Ok I think I'm getting there. I got the car started with a slightly modded spark table. I'm going to fiddle with it some more, but suffice it to say I had to hold it around 2kRPM and hit it with the gun to check. Seems I'm really close if not on at around -10 Trigger Offset. So either my eyes or crooked or there's a variable I didn't take into consideration when lining everything up. Either way I think I'm down to fuel. I found one person running a setup really close to mine and it seems he's using 17.4 as his required fuel. Sounds a bit rich, but I suppose I need to keep in mind the stock injectors are only 188cc. Surprisingly that's about what the generate req fuel comes up with. So hopefully my next post will be a successful start up and idle at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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