280Z Turbo Posted August 11, 2007 Share Posted August 11, 2007 In 2 weeks, I'm taking my Z out to Blackhawk Farms Raceway in South Beloit, IL to run a high speed autocross with Midwestern Council. I already ran the car at Gingerman Raceway in South Haven, MI and was having issues with brake fade after a few laps. I have stock rotors and freshly rebuilt calipers, new Hawk HPS pads, with Valvoline Syntech brake fluid. The rears are stock. I'm thinking about running some ducting and installing Fade stop brake coolers. How do you guys run brake ducting? It looks like a lot of ITS guys run dual ducting with a stock front valance. How is it secured and what kind of ducts should I use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speed42 Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 I ran ducts from my BRE like chin spoiler tie wrapped to the rotor dust shield. I found duct work really didn't have as much of an effect as good fluid, regularly changed. I assume your fluid was from a fresh container? I had similar issues until I went to Motul RBF600. No ad for them, but the stuff solved a bunch of my issues. I also had a brain adjustment with how I was using the brakes as well. Shorter period of time but harder on the pedal instead of longer easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 I ran ducts from my BRE like chin spoiler tie wrapped to the rotor dust shield. I found duct work really didn't have as much of an effect as good fluid, regularly changed. I assume your fluid was from a fresh container? I had similar issues until I went to Motul RBF600. No ad for them, but the stuff solved a bunch of my issues. I also had a brain adjustment with how I was using the brakes as well. Shorter period of time but harder on the pedal instead of longer easier. Agreed, the brake fluid is the most critical part of the equation. I W2W in Council and last year there I met another Z owner, also in W2W, who still had the backing plates and no ducts! I couldn't beleive he didn't have any issues, but he did bleed the brakes between sessions. Motul RBF600 and ATE Super Blue/type 200 seem to be the best choices. Ducting still wouldn't hurt of course. If I were still using the stock calipers or even the toyota ones I'd probably make some "hats" for them with their own ducting. That aside, you can weld some exhaust tubing to the backing plates, clamp some hose on it, and a 280 with a stock lower valance has alot of room to add some intake ducts, you could try something like these: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katman Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 There was a recent thread on this with pictures on the Nissan/Datsun forum at improvedtouring.com. http://itforum.improvedtouring.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12155 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyle Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 I run FSBCs with HP+/ATE200/SS lines/ducts on my 240Z. I've had some issues with the rears (common), but the fronts have served very very well. You have to run the ducting up pretty high to keep from squishing it between the tire and frame rail. When I began improving the brakes, it was pointed out that ducting with non-vented rotors wouldn't do much good, unless "steps" were taken - like preith says, hats for the calipers or rotors, or the FSBCs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 I run FSBCs with HP+/ATE200/SS lines/ducts on my 240Z. I've had some issues with the rears (common), but the fronts have served very very well. You have to run the ducting up pretty high to keep from squishing it between the tire and frame rail. When I began improving the brakes, it was pointed out that ducting with non-vented rotors wouldn't do much good, unless "steps" were taken - like katman says, hats for the calipers or rotors, or the FSBCs. To be fair, I mentioned the "hats" first Anyways it should be noted 280Z Turbo states he'll be running a high speed autocross. This is structured similar to a solo2 environment with a minimal amount of laps at a time, IMO alot of the stuff from the IT board is overkill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyle Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 fixed, sorry about the error. Agreed that the IT guys know their biz - frightening to read about having stacks of rotors, drums, shoes, pads, and three ducts per wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunar240z Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 someone on here did some ducting, and had pictures, but I dont remember who. I remember that they cut out the metal between the brake mounting holes on the strut tower to fit a round flexible duct in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fhptom Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 I tried using that exact Valvoline Syntech in my car and once you really start using your brakes they will fade quickly. We bled after 2 sessions and replaced with a high quality race fluid and they were good for the rest of the day. Brake Hard and Brake Late on track.. Brake earlier and softer on road... And that's just for comfort... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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