Guest Mr. Big Business Posted September 6, 2002 Share Posted September 6, 2002 This is on the passenger side: I don't want to try man-handling the hard lines too much more. I'd like to put the hard lines back in the stock location, but then the braided hose is on the verge of kinking as it tries to go to the bottom of the caliper. I was thinking of just putting the hose in the top of the caliper, and just un-bolting it and turning it upside down to bleed it. (I'd put a block of wood or something between the pads.) Any suggestions on where/how to run these hoses? Thanks, Henry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCZ Posted September 6, 2002 Share Posted September 6, 2002 I don't like that routing. Seems that the hose could chafe against the sway bar end link. You don't want the hose to be able to contact anything no matter how it might whip around. I haven't done this swap so I don't have a specific suggestion on what to do. I guess I would look into routing the hard line such that the hose would be aligned better. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CruxGNZ Posted September 6, 2002 Share Posted September 6, 2002 Hmmm... I wouldn't run with that either. Like DCZ said, you don't want your brake line to touch anything within full suspension travel and also in your case lock to lock. Couldn't you just bend up another hard line to end up in the stock mounting position? Looks like if you were to rotate that hardline counter clockwise 90 degrees, it might end up in the stock position and your SS braided line might be out of the way. I'm not saying that you should go ahead and just bend it , that wouldn't be safe, but bend up a new hard line. Also, you should have a mounting spot for the end of your hard line anyhow, you don't want it to flex along with your SS braided hose during suspension travel. !M! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted September 6, 2002 Share Posted September 6, 2002 You must support the end of the solid steel brake tubing (the hard lines) like the factory did! Any movement (flexing) of the steel tubing will lead to work hardening and then the possibility of a crack in the brake tubing. I agree that you should reposition the end of the hard line back on the stock support. What about using another one of those 90 deg ends on the other end of the flexible line? You could also try securing the flex line to the strut. BTW, be sure to check for line kinking over the full range of suspension movement. Removing your front spring and re-installing the strut makes checking this out a lot easier. Use a floor jack both to raise and lower the strut and also to raise and lower the body/frame near the strut. As my boss at work says: “The real engineering is in the details”. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KraZ4spd Posted September 6, 2002 Share Posted September 6, 2002 What would happen if you switched the bleeder and the hose inlet to where the line went to the top of the caliper? Is it interchangable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CruxGNZ Posted September 6, 2002 Share Posted September 6, 2002 You need the bleeder on the top to let the air bubbles out, otherwise you won't be able to get the air out of the system. !M! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CruxGNZ Posted September 7, 2002 Share Posted September 7, 2002 I totaly missed what you wrote under your pictures Mr. Big, you had already thought of putting the hardline back to the stock location. My next option would be to grind off the stock bracket and weld it about and inch or so below where it sits now. That should keep the SS braided hose from kinking, but you don't know 'till you try it I guess. !M! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted September 7, 2002 Share Posted September 7, 2002 put the fitting back in the bottom of the caliper .. the lines are measured to go from stock to the middle of the caliper with a fitting into the side of it-- NOT the bottom..line should come from the top of the caliper down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted September 7, 2002 Share Posted September 7, 2002 reading my own post isnt clear enuf.. there is a hex plug in hte side and you remove that and that is where the line feed goes - you can see it in teh picture -- no one has tried the bottom before-- i guess there is always a first time.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mr. Big Business Posted September 8, 2002 Share Posted September 8, 2002 OOOhhhh....so that's what the plug is for. You know, you could have mentioned that when you sold me the brake lines. You have no idea how many hours I've wasted dicking around with these things. It's not really obvious (well, it is in hindsight) that the hex plug is a line fitting. I learn somthing new every time I post to this board. Speaking of that, what's the slotted plug/screw for on the side of the new master cylinder for? It's opposite the side with the bleeders. Thanks, Henry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted September 9, 2002 Share Posted September 9, 2002 thats used to keep the piston in the bore when rebuilding.. dont touch it... bleed the master first and then the calipers.. the lines should fit fine in the side.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bluex_v1 Posted September 9, 2002 Share Posted September 9, 2002 If you didn't already know, those SS lines are even more susceptible to failure due to abrasion than regular rubber lines. (I knows this from off-roading) Although it doesn't look as slick, I'd suggest zip-tieing some rubber fuel line or something equivalent around it near any possible contact points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mr. Big Business Posted September 12, 2002 Share Posted September 12, 2002 Just to let you all know (and to brag a bit) I finally got my brakes sorted out. After Mike told be where I should stick my brake lines they fit like a champ. I should have just called him first, instead of dorking around with them. Anyway, I ended up bleeding my brakes and master about 3 times each (front and rear) before I finally chased all the bubbles out. I can now lock up the tires, although it does require a good bit of pedal pressure. I'll attribute that to the 15/16 master, and decently sticky tires. I'm still running the stock (unmolested) proportioning valve, and it seems to be 'ok' for now, but I'll get the adjustable one installed when I get a chance. Henry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted September 12, 2002 Share Posted September 12, 2002 Originally posted by Mr. Big Business:I can now lock up the tires, although it does require a good bit of pedal pressure. I'll attribute that to the 15/16 master, and decently sticky tires. I'm still running the stock (unmolested) proportioning valve, and it seems to be 'ok' for now, but I'll get the adjustable one installed when I get a chance. Henry Did you follow the bedding in procedure for your pads? This will make a big difference in how well the pads 'bite'. If you haven't done it yet, I'd do it ASAP. Also, some of this could be due to the stock proportioning valve - it's setup for a drum rear, so it is most likely not sending anywhere near enough pressure to the rear brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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