Z U L8R Posted August 27, 2007 Share Posted August 27, 2007 I have my spare block at the machine shop getting some wiseco pistons, acl main and rod bearings, and since i just got another side job crackalackin i got enough money for rods too, i'll probably go eagle or brian crower. i'm only looking for 5-600 reliable horse. but until i go bigger turbo, if i can just make my same #'s reliably, if not a little extra since i haven't molested the head yet i'll be happy. my question mainly pertains to oiling. i have a friend in one ear saying get a jun ($800) oil pump, and then get some oil restrictors so "the oil won't be pumped out of the sump faster than it can drain back down from the head" he by the way has 3 grand invested in his dry sump kit with a goal of 800-1000rwhp. but for my hp goals i think that's overkill. in the other ear i have a friend saying "our race car makes 570rwhp on the oil pump that came with the motor, when we built the bottom end we didn't even buy a new oe one, we would have liked to but it didn't happen that way. you'll be fine with just getting yourself a new oe one, not even an N1. we also have a friend making 780 rwhp on his daily rb25 that's twin turbo with methonal running stock bottom end, hg and studs, with stock oil pump." i don't want to build my motor twice. but at the same time i don't need to overkill my oiling either. in your "been there done that" opinions. you think i'll have any problems going with just a brand new oe nissan oil pump? nissan oil pumps aren't really notorious for taking shits so.....your 2 cents is appreciated. thx again Dave =] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted August 27, 2007 Share Posted August 27, 2007 jun and tomei pumps are 1000 in change n1 pumps are 220 in change standard pumps are 150 in change apparently n1 pumps are made of cheaper metal (??? from SAU boards) and are more brittle and prone to developing small hairline cracks that will decrease oil pressure and pumping volume. I might order the N1 and call it a day. just make sure you get the crank collar if you do. I think Rb25's don't need them though, but look into it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZDrifter Posted August 27, 2007 Share Posted August 27, 2007 I dont have the experience of blowing motors because of oil pumps but I will tell you what info I have recieved from old school drag racers on this subject. Basically any oil pump other then stock is overkill for the street. Since you will be driving this car on the street(im assuming) you will have the car at idle for periods of time which could starve your motor of oil taking if from the pan and not having it drain back fast enough like your friend said. Stock Oil pumps are will usually do the job since they were designed for the street. Unless you will have the motor at high rpms (drag racing high rpms and rarely idling, circuit racing high rpms most of the time) for long periods of time, the stock one should do. From what I have seen for around 500-600whp- pistons(first thing to go on the bottom end for an RB) rods, bearings, rings, metal or copper head gasket, arp head studs, and replace all gaskets. I may be missing some but thats the majority of what people have that I have seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z U L8R Posted August 27, 2007 Author Share Posted August 27, 2007 cool. ya basically i've been making the #'s in my sig on stock internals with just a commetic 1.2mm head gasket, arp studs, and the rest are bolt ons. everything internal is all stock. the first motor's timing belt broke and bent 90% of my valves. this last motor blew cause i beat the hell out of it. i got dyno'd for 20psi on pump, but i was also driving it on the street at 20psi and it's rare for me not to get on it. even though my a/f's were safe and my knock voltage didn't get crazy at 20psi on pump gas, on stock internals i shouldn't have gone more than 17-18psi around town. i made 2 1/4 mile passes at the track (it was a pretty hot night also) then got a ton of blow by/oil out of my valve cover vents. i was able to drive it home from the drag strip, before i left i added a quart of oil and didn't get into boost the whole way there. it still starts right up and i can move it around my driveway to make room for my sidework etc but i'm not gonna go cruising with a known 60psi on cylinder #2 lol. the valve bender block is what's at the machine shop now getting the pistons fitted for it etc. he should have me done within the next week or 2. for 5-600hp i shouldn't need rods but i'm doing em anyways cause i don't wanna tear this thing apart anymore. i just want my 10.9999999999999999999999999 pass then i won't see the track again for a long time. thx for ur advice fellas, i'm just gonna get the oe nissan pump, not the n1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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