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Megasquirt II


niner11

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Well that's set right. Your RPM readings seem really high. It's like it's either 2k or 0. Even the lower ones that could be cranking RPMs are too high for cranking. Something is wrong in your ignition input settings.

EDIT:

AHHHH!! Just checked your .msq you posted. You're using -66 BTDC, I.E. 66 ATDC. You Trigger Offset numbers should always be positive, unless you're running a wasted spark setup, in which case it should be around -10.

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Thanks for your help and good catch on the timing numbers. I had changed my timing setting after I sent the msq. This msq is cygnusx1's...I only had to change my timing, the map sensor I'm using and a few other minor things. He has been a big help since this engine is from a junkyard and has a new turbo and intercooler setup on it.

 

I just got the car to run pretty good a few mins ago.

 

Even with all of the noise from the wires I found that if you ground the relay cable housing it quiets things down a lot. I'll data log a run in a few mins and post it. Chuck

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Can you ground the ECU case? To limit any electrical noise into its internal circuitry?

high end ECU's (top shelf MoTec) do this, as well as RF shielding over sensitive sensor wires.

i may be way off, im new to the whole MS thing too, but i would think that a reason for burning out your driver curcuit would be an insufficient ground, creating a large resistance and excess heat???

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Nizm0Zed, in the earlier datalogs you can see the interference showing spikes everywhere. Most if not all of that went away when I grounded the ends of the relay cable, db9 cable and the MS unit itself. This was before that magnecor wires were put on the car but it looks like the grounds solved my reset problems.

 

Not sure what was causing the injector drivers to burn out but your idea has merit. One odd thing was that I had 5amp fuses installed on the relay board but my 20amp FET's were still frying(Q1and Q5)

 

I did rewire the cars charging circuit during all of this but both MS and the relay board have protections for over voltage that should have protected these components. Not sure about heat since they would fail (Q1) within seconds after the car was running.

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