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Nizm0Zed

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Everything posted by Nizm0Zed

  1. Nizm0Zed

    4 ROTOR

    rotaries can be very reliable engines, i personally know of several that have done over 100,000kms. Like you said, look after it correctly and they are just as good as a piston motor. Warm it up, cool it down, make sure it has lubrication for the seals, use mineral base oils not synthetics, good quality fuel, proper tuning, regular maintenance ect. The things that kill a rotor is no lube in the fuel, hot oil temps (oil is used to cool the rotors), Poor tuning, no mechanical sympathy, poor quality rebuild/parts. From that, all of those things (except fuel lube) apply to any engine. There are also people that slag off rotors for blowing up and being unreliable because they heard of joe smith who rebuilds his rotor every year or 2 after a low amount of kms. What they neglect to add, or just dont know, is that joe's engine is a comp spec highly strung motor that does a LOT of track time. Same goes for a piston motor used in the same conditions. Full on competition racers rebuild after several runs/once a season. Same with rotors. Otherwise its in a street car that blew up, because the owner straps the balls off it, it isnt tuned properly and was rebuild cheaply. Again, a piston motor in the same situation will suffer the same problems, its just better at hiding it for longer.
  2. Nizm0Zed

    4 ROTOR

    That may help you to visualize it.
  3. Nizm0Zed

    4 ROTOR

    so where did you go to school? 1.3 + 1.3 + 1.3 = 3.9 1.3 + 1.3 = 2.6 This is a really crude way to explain it, but, bear with me. The rotor has 3 combustion chambers for each rotor. For a 13B they are 654cc for EACH chamber. the combustion chamber is the machined hollow in the face of the rotor. 2 rotors equal 6 in total. The engine is a 4 stroke motor, so at any given time when running, (talking about a twin rotor now) you'll have 2 combustion chambers in induction, drawing a fuel/air mix in, 2 chambers compressing and igniting the fuel/air mixture and the last 2 chambers exhausting the burned remains (and sounding like a pack of angry wasps) In a complete rotation (720 degrees, like a 4 stroke petrol motor) the engine will only use 2 of its 3 combustion chambers per rotor. So, looking at that, there are only ever 4 combustion chambers with any fuel/air in them at any given time in a 720 degree engine cycle. 4 chambers at 654cc = 2616cc understand? Like i said, very crude.
  4. Nizm0Zed

    4 ROTOR

    iirc, once you start getting high power 3 rotor and 4 or more rotors, you have a LOT of trouble controlling the twist of the motor. Probably need to start bracing them externally. Having said that, watching Mad Mike (from New Zealand) in his quad rotor RX7 drifting Eastern Creek Raceway during the World Time Attack Challenge was absolutely epic. And my god, the sound....
  5. http://gktech.com.au/product_detail.asp?ship=show&id=4to5-spcr&veh=&country=Australia&postcode=2904&x=45&y=12 BAM!
  6. I have 3 megasquirt ECU's and a Jimstim. I dont know if i should test them out and use them, or sell them on. Im not actually 100% sure exactly what i have. Pictures here... http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,10779.0.html
  7. There is 4 wires, Looking at the plug it has a raised notch on one side. If that were oriented to the top, you'd have Top left - Signal wire (white wire) (inner band of 6 slots?) Bottom left - Signal wire (green wire) (outer band of 360 slots?) One of these signal wires is for the outer band of slits, one is for the inner band of slits, Sorry i dont know which is which. Top Right - Ground (black wire) Bottom right - +12v Power (red wire) hope that helps.
  8. Thread bump! Does anyone have a E6X L28ET base map that I could perhaps have a copy of? My engine is a L28ET, 440cc GTR injectors, GT3271R, waste spark ignition. The big thing is the fuel maps, im pretty much ok to change any other settings to suit what I have, but im having a bit of trouble getting my head around the fuel side of things. I dont need it to run perfectly, its going to go to a workshop for a full tune. Unfortunately for my wallet, if it doesnt start/run/rough idle it'll cost me more for them to tune it as they have to spend longer on it initially. If anyone can help, MASSIVE thanks.
  9. So, reading between the lines, there is your answer. Import a set of tyres from Japan (or perhaps another more local market to you? Cuba? Mexico? Brazil? dont know the logistics of that) From there, you can mount them to a nice light weight set of rims for track days and off street racing events. On the street you shouldnt require massive performance from your tyres unless your breaking several road laws in the process, and none of us ever do that.... I think personally if you want to keep that type of tyre on the street, you'll need to upgrade to a 15" rim, which doesnt look stupid and opens your tyre choices a lot. Move with the times, adapt or die out. Unfortunately manufacturers allways move with the times, and the 14" tyres are a dying thing. You'll still be able to get them, just not in the selection you once did. Its a similar story here in Oz too. Everyone is going for bigger rims.
  10. Construction? Like buildings and things? If you have qualifications then yes, Oz has a decent skills shortage. Go through the proper channels and you will be able to get a working visa and job lined up before you leave. First step would be to look through some of the large contracting companies, Lendlease, Hays, ect.
  11. yea, i dont blame you guys for not wanting to join. you get all the cool imports and we are stuck with an inept government, a 'justice system that is based on revenue raising and a massive problem of racism from the useless 'aussies' (flag waving bogans) who are too damn proud, too stupid, and too arrogant to make any difference in the things they are complaining about being hard done by.
  12. trademe is New Zealand. New zealand isn't Australia (although we are better at sports, just ask them) Thats like saying Canada and America are the same
  13. My setup is pretty similar, however the only running my engine has done so far is several minutes of very rough tune in the ECU. My combo is a N42 head on a L28 block, flat top pistons and a Nismo MLS .06mm head gasket, Haltech EFI and a Garret GT3271 turbo, wastegate minimum pressure at 10psi (will be left there) the Ozdat engine design utility indicates that my comp ratio will be 10.4:1 Yes, seems high, but with careful fuel and ignition control it should be fine, and very responsive off boost. I know that it used to be the case that you had to run a low comp ratio for a turbo motor, but there are plenty of modern high comp motors that have been boosted quite reliably, PROVIDED the mapping is done well. look at some of the Honda motors and turbo kits as an example. As a sensible step back looking at the whole picture though, i understand that many modern high comp motors are 4 or more valves per cylinder and the fuel maps are a lot tighter, but there is no reason why the L series cant accomplish the same. After all, its Fuel, Air and Spark. http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ Chuck in your specs and see how it looks. (bookmark the site, its awesome!)
  14. yea, the video is nice and all, but you really had to be there, sitting less that 10M from the track, watching the Sierra Sierra evo and the Cyber evo battle it out, with the all carbon fibre Qscan R35 GTR and Panspeed RX7 hot on their heels. thats not even getting started on the Piazza doro evo that took 1st place in the pro class, making an impressive upgrade from the clubsprint class last year. the promo girls were decent too
  15. I guess its different attitudes, but personally i would NEVER buy a second hand helmet. You can never know 100% for sure if its ever been dropped, involved in an accident, neglected, repaired ect ect. I personally know of every bump that my helmet has been involved in. When the unfortunate happens and you come off, the one time you need that piece of saftey equipment to save your life, are you truly prepared to take the chance that its not upto the task? you guys are also a bit luckier with the Snell ratings. Down here in oz, we can have a helmet that meets Snell ratings, but not DOT/ADR ratings (Snell meets and exceeds requirements) and its not legal to use on the road. Stupid i know. all because someone hasn't paid the money to test it to our local standards, even if its been tested to US DOT or Euro standards. That's bureaucracy for you... I would say that you should try to get a helmet that meets the Snell ratings, that in a nutshell is tested for multiple impacts, as opposed to basic DOT testing for single and sometimes secondary impacting only. At least if you have a Snell helmet, its safer for use during track events too. Some CAMS events require a Snell rating of the helmet. But i guess if your at that level, you'd have dedicated gear anyway. Either way, from personal experience, look for a helmet that suits your expected riding experience. does it have a sun glare visor? (as a bandaid fix for some helmets, a strip of electrical tape along the inside top edge of the visor is awesome!) can you get a tinted shield for it? what is the ventilation like? Will it fog in cold weather? how heavy is it? How does it sit on your head when riding? (very important between riding a cruiser or a crotch rocket) Is it easy to control the ventilation switches with gloves on?
  16. fwiw, i did this temporarily with my FG bonnet, it flexes it when its closed, making it push up on one side. Maybe not worth considering if you dont wanna keep the standard steel bonnet....
  17. What's wrong with using a 50w ballast on the standard wiring? Isn't the standard light a 55w/60w from factory? I am however not arguing that a gain CAN be made by setting up a proper relay switched system...
  18. Jeez i hope she never reads this.... My wife isnt that good looking, not by everyone elses standards. But then, neither am i. We have been together over 10 years now, and she is most definately the one. I got my bike a few years ago, and even then it took a good 2 years of me pestering her, saying i was going to get one. Eventually she cracked it and said "fine, do whatever you want" I rode home on my new bike the next day. The following week was very nice and peaceful, with no nagging or conversation at all She accepts that its what i wanted, and that i strive to give her what she wants. She wont ride on it with me at all, but will compromise on a trike, so its a start... At the end of the day though, for us, its all about communication and compromise on BOTH sides.
  19. just for the sake of ruling it out, could you try a different ECU? Maybe you can borrow one, it'd only take a minute to swap over and test it once you pull the trim panel off. I doubt its the AFM itself, if you have all ready tried 2 other ones. Yes, maybe the temp sensor registering a cold motor all the time, but it should still start and run (especially if cold) it'll just be heavy on fuel. How long does it run with the fuel pump unplugged? It shouldnt run at all with the pump unplugged, if anything, only for as long as the residual pressure stays in the fuel rail.
  20. Where's his secondary saftey catch? He's lucky he wasnt in the other lane, the damage bill would be a LOT bigger.
  21. Copied this off another site, its getting around at the moment, pretty cool time waster. Go here, http://goggles.sneakygcr.net/ And drag it onto your bookmarks toolbar (below where you put in web adresses) Pick a site, then hit the 'goggles' button. Draw with your left mouse button, erase with your right. Popular sites have lots of interesting things on them. Warning, there could be *any* user generated content, mostly crude *****. So possibly not worksafe..... Have fun...
  22. that car in that condition would got for an easy $5k here in oz, maybe more. It'd also sell within a fortnight of advertising.
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