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auto to manual swap parts list?


Guest durableswedish

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Guest durableswedish

Hi, I just bought an 81 280ZX turbo with an automatic 3-speed. I've been searching the forum and haven't really found much info about swapping a manual into a 280zx. I'm under the impression that i need:

  • a 280zx clutch master cylinder
  • hydraulic lines
  • clutch petal assembly (the automatic throttle pedal is fine)
  • shortened 2" driveshaft
  • throwout bearing/clutch/pressure plate
  • a 5-speed transmission.

I've been able to find everything except the transmission. I know the L28 was used in a few datsun/nissan cars. But, which cars have bolt on transmissions for the 280zx, as in which cars have the same bell-housing? I'm thinking a 300zx would be my next best bet. On a side note, i read that an s13/14 tranny works if i can put a 280zx bell-housing on it? Maybe someone on the board has a spare 5-speed for a 280zx that they'd sell me? Does the automatic flywheel work or do i need to upgrade to a manual one? Does it look like my swap list is complete? sorry for all the noob questions, thanks for the help though!

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You need the manual flywheel, the auto has a pressure plate and won't work unless you get a 10k RPM clutch setup.

 

The driveshaft is iffy. On my ZXT I used an NA 5 speed and had to have a custom driveshaft made (NA trans output shaft to ZX Turbo diff) or you can swap the pinion flange on the differential. Not many people mention this so I guess it's all the luck of the draw.

 

300zx input shaft and bellhousing is different according to what I've read online, but I've never tried it. Any L series transmission from 70-83 bolts up. For the KA tranny, you need an L series bellhousing and you have to get it machined to accept certain parts (I think some bearings and shafts). The write up is on here, as well as a few people that offer that service.

 

I've got an extra 4 speed, and I might have a 5 speed soon but the 2nd gear synchros are going out.

 

Mario

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Guest durableswedish

thanks for the info, i think i found a 5-speed out of a 78 280z cheap-ish. I'll try and detail as much as possible when i get around to swapping it out.

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I just did this on my '83 n/a to turbo swap. Let's see:

 

I didn't see the slave cylinder mentioned anywhere. You'll need a driveshaft with a rectangle flange (which I think is pretty much a driveshaft off an R200. I was unable to swap the pinion flange on this one. The R200 flange was too large for the R180. Since yours is a turbo, it will have the R200, and it should be a rectangle bolt-patterned companion flange. Crossmembers are interchangeable. Make sure you don't forget what Braap said, or you'll end up screwing yourself when the starter can't engage on the flywheel.

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Guest durableswedish
I just did this on my '83 n/a to turbo swap. Let's see:

 

I didn't see the slave cylinder mentioned anywhere. You'll need a driveshaft with a rectangle flange (which I think is pretty much a driveshaft off an R200. I was unable to swap the pinion flange on this one. The R200 flange was too large for the R180. Since yours is a turbo, it will have the R200, and it should be a rectangle bolt-patterned companion flange. Crossmembers are interchangeable. Make sure you don't forget what Braap said, or you'll end up screwing yourself when the starter can't engage on the flywheel.

 

did you need to swap cross-members to mount the manual trans, or will i jusr need a new transmission mount for the manual?

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I used the auto crossmember to mount the manual tranny.

 

Yep I believe the only different crossmember (well, different enough that it interference with things) is the Nissan BW T5 one. If you use a none T5 crossmember with the T5, it will put a lot of strain on the motor mounts and actually push them forward.

 

Mario

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I did the same thing. Took a 5 speed out of an 81 n/a. Take everything you can find at the junk yard. I took everything from the flywheel back to the diffy. It is easier in the long run to take out the whole cage that holds the clutch and brake pedals. remove the four bolts holding the brake vacuum booster out and there are two bolts over towards door that you can get at if you pull the speedo console. It won't seem that it wants to come out but if you wiggle and cuss and then wiggle some more it will just come out as a unit. Need to disconect clutch master cylinder and brake rod. hydraulic line for the clutch. the brackets are there with three holes ready to install but you need it. there is no bracket welded to the frame for the hose for the clutch slave but that didn't seem to be a problem. You need to do some rewiring because of the auto tranny safety provisions. I wound up putting a r180 diffy in to solve the driveshaft problem. You can't use the driveshaft as the output spline of the auto is larger than the five speed output spline. Or one thought I had was to have a driveline place cut the two drive shafts and then match the ends that way. I was quoted $100 for this and was able to get the diffy cheaper so I went that way. I think the tranny mounts just worked as is but I may have grabbed the ones off the 5 speed. Get a good tranny jack makes the job much easier. Take out the front seats before you start also makes things easier. Pressure wash the underside and the fenders unless you enjoy having crud fall in your eyes on a regular basis. You will need the center console and boot for the 5 speed as the auto won't work. it was not that hard to do but had to go back a few times for things I forgot. If you can't get the slave cylinder new ones go for $18 bucks - I'd go that way probably get new master also. Make sure to get the hydraulic line however that can be a killer.

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Guest durableswedish

I'm getting confused about the differential+driveshaft. so are there a few versions of the r200 and r180 differentials? a manual and auto version? I'm looking on e-bay for a differential and I'm not sure what to look for. would i be able to use my auto driveshaft if i get it cut at a shop or will the flange to the differential not work? any idea how much i need to have it shortened? does anyone have pictures of the different differential flanges? so there is a square one and a round one?

 

/edit: Here is an r200 differential, i guess out of a 240sx/others. is this the r200 differential that I'm looking for? this doesn't look like a direct swap, what needs to be altered to get this to work for my Z?

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It isn't the diffy it is the input flange on the diffy and or the output spline of the transmission. A friend of mine had an input flange to an r200 that would fit the n/a 5 speed but didn't find that out until I changed everythign out. Only thing different on the diffy is if you have u joint half shaft or cv joint half shaft. Either one will work with diffy BUT r180 half shafts are different length right and left due to smaller width on r180. I believe but am not certain that r200 half shafts are the same length.

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durableswedish - read this for differential info: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114798

 

Yep I believe the only different crossmember (well, different enough that it interference with things) is the Nissan BW T5 one. If you use a none T5 crossmember with the T5, it will put a lot of strain on the motor mounts and actually push them forward.

 

Acutally, I used the auto crossmember when installing the T5. I didn't hear anything about additional stress to the motor mounts - I really didn't have any issues putting everything together (well, between the T5 and L28et). I guess I'll find out if I wasn't supposed to use that crossmember :-)

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