justin260z Posted September 6, 2007 Share Posted September 6, 2007 I rebuilt my l28 about 10,000 miles ago.... machined the block and head surfaces....put a felpro haead gasket on it, and now it leaks coolant at the head gasket. I want to replace the leaky head gasket and raise my compression at the same time. Would it be smart to put a metal head gasket on it, or am i going to be stuck with having to replace it with a regular one. I have never had any experience with metal head gaskets before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin260z Posted September 7, 2007 Author Share Posted September 7, 2007 please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin260z Posted September 7, 2007 Author Share Posted September 7, 2007 anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 Wow, only 10 hours, and your gonna get banned that quick. People have jobs and such, and can't get on every few minuts. You have to wait sometimes to recieve info. Chill out, and possibly get some mental help because I think you may have anger problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 My suggestion is to edit those posts quickly before an admin sees it and will deffinitly ban you. People are more then helpful on the board, but you must give it time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin260z Posted September 7, 2007 Author Share Posted September 7, 2007 jeez i dont have anger problems, just zed problems and it is my daily driver so it needs to be quick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 Yep, you are PRIME Zcar.com material. Edit: Hmmm, you editted your post. A cooler head prevailed, eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin260z Posted September 7, 2007 Author Share Posted September 7, 2007 hehe never heard of it, maybe ill ask them there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearheadstik Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 You need to search more than a second or two....That helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 Did you torque the head down as per the FSM? Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 According to the LEngine calculator, the stock L26 (I'm guessing from your name that's the engine you have) has a CR of 8.47 with a felpro gasket. That's the same as with a 1 mm HKS gasket. I don't think you're going to be able to make a significant improvement in CR, at least enough that you could feel it, with just the headgasket. I'd be more concerned with determining why it leaked after 10k miles given how you say you prepped the block deck and head. How do you know you're not going to have this same issue again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 There is a .6mm headgasket that nismo offers, I can't find a link to it, but I believe its not a metal headgasket, so it should seal better then the metal one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TravRMK Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CP&Category_Code=s30_nismo_headgasketL28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted September 8, 2007 Share Posted September 8, 2007 and that is not metal, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PSi Posted September 8, 2007 Share Posted September 8, 2007 Question on top of his question since were talking heads, Ive just gotten into the L series and was wondering if maybe this is his issue as well... When taking most nissan heads off you have to de-tq in a patern (as per FSM) as not to warp the head. Is this true with the L series? To tie my question in with yours maybe this could have been an issue when you took it off you warped the head? -PSi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted September 8, 2007 Administrators Share Posted September 8, 2007 Yep, you are PRIME Zcar.com material.... hehe never heard of it, maybe ill ask them there " I don’t care wahtchya all say, that’s funny right there. " Oh, and don't forget http://www.classiczcars.com As for being in a hurry, please be a little more patient. Sometimes it may take a few days or more before a response. Bumping it every few minutes, every few hours will get that thread tossed in the shed for sure. As for your gasket leaking, I’m assuming you are seeing coolant weeping and stains down the passenger side of your block? If the block surface was not thoroughly cleaned “immediately” prior to installing the gasket or if the block deck surface sat exposed to any moisture, (high humidity counts), for any period of time prior to installing the head gasket, the slight corrosion that starts to form on the deck surface will compromise the seal of the head gasket just enough to allow the coolant to weep out externally on the L-series. As for your bump in comp ratio. You said you have an L-28, but which one, early dished pistons with N-42/47 head, late flat top pistons and P-79/P-90 head, is it N/A, OE turbocharged? At any rate, it doesn’t matter which L-28 you have right now as the compression ratio topic in regards to building high performance L-28’s has been beat to death and then some on this forum. Do a search for custom cylinder heads, big and nasty head work, and other cylinder head searches and you will find LOTS of info regarding what works and does not work with specific build combinations. Not all combinations are compatible. Good luck, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin260z Posted September 8, 2007 Author Share Posted September 8, 2007 My combonation is a l28 block with the dished pistons, and a l26 e88 head (came off my old blown up l26). n/a I torqued everything exactly how it says in the book. I did celan the surfaces too. I put the engine together the second I got the parts back from the machine shop. Should i try another head gasket, or would it be smarter just to re deck the head and block? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted September 8, 2007 Share Posted September 8, 2007 My combonation is a l28 block with the dished pistons, and a l26 e88 head (came off my old blown up l26). n/a I torqued everything exactly how it says in the book. I did celan the surfaces too. I put the engine together the second I got the parts back from the machine shop. Should i try another head gasket, or would it be smarter just to re deck the head and block? Maybe a little late, but have you tried re-torquing the head? If this just started after 10K miles, it probably won't help, but it wouldn't hurt anything, either. As far as de-torquing the head, I don't think that it's necessary to de-torque in sequence, so long as the head is stone cold (as in sat at least overnight). That said, it certainly wouldn't hurt anything to go in sequence, so why not? And, regarding weeping right after assembly, I have found that re-torquing after two or three heat cycles can eliminate any initial weeping problems. Seems like every time I mention this, somebody chimes in and says that that's not necessary, but I have had good results with this method. Again, you should never re-torque a head that is not stone cold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.