cpt jack Posted September 16, 2007 Share Posted September 16, 2007 i have that air box as well lol came stock.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
76Datsun280z Posted September 16, 2007 Share Posted September 16, 2007 What if the flow sensor was bad o_O that would cause the engine to flood out wouldn't it? If it's been tampered with and is out of adjustment, yes. One way to tell if it has, is the glob of glue on the top left screw holding the black wheel is broken. The contacts inside it could also be corroted which you can clean using that contact cleaner. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted September 16, 2007 Author Share Posted September 16, 2007 not the maf i think. it's never been opened up either.. unplugged runs worse, cleand the contacts, idles a bit better tps does nothing after cleaning. i bet its shot no matter what, if it's in or out, the TPS is doing nothing. there is no difference between plugged in and unplugged. the fuel pump is also really noisy, and the car is running super rich. I think it might be a combination of a poor fuel pump, dirty fuel lines, and a shotty TPS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted September 16, 2007 Author Share Posted September 16, 2007 i've got a question unrelated to my problem (since it's almost 100% the tps at this point) why does my car have bumper over riders. 280's didn't come with them right? just wonderin. mine are in near perfect condition lol. I'm giong to fix a small problem it has, it has rather large tires (as you can tell form the pictures) the right side would scrub SOMETHING but only at a certian point. well, it toko a little while to find, but the inner lip of the fender was just ever so bent out in one section, so it scrubs. a bit of hammer tapping tommorow will fix it. (it won't scrub going over bumps, or turning and bumps, just when it hit that point.) I only found it cause it rubbed the paint off what are the two pips on the firewall for (passenger side) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/half_breed/My%20Z/DSC06838.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacecoastz Posted September 16, 2007 Share Posted September 16, 2007 Pull the vacuum line off of your fuel pressure regulator and turn your key on and look for fuel coming out. If so, the diaphram has cracked with age and you need to replace the regulator. If that is your problem your oil is going to be thinned out by the fuel and need to be changed as well. Good luck and nice score! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacecoastz Posted September 16, 2007 Share Posted September 16, 2007 Those feed water to your heater core. In your picture, it was looped and eliminated. Probably the valve was leaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted September 16, 2007 Author Share Posted September 16, 2007 ah, ok thanks. It's arizona and cooling off, so i doubt i'll do anything about it anytime soon. I'll check my regulator. checked it. It's ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacecoastz Posted September 16, 2007 Share Posted September 16, 2007 Well check your thermotime switch like 76 said. Corrosion at the plug could do it easily enough. Also check your fuel hoses for cracks, if they are original then they are over due. Something else to look for but not pertaining to your rich condition is the condition of your AFM boots. Look carefully between the folds and most likely you will find cracks that let unmetered air into the engine. Clean ALL your wire connections and Grounds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted September 16, 2007 Author Share Posted September 16, 2007 i checked the AFM last night, the hoses are all clean. There aren't any cracks in teh fuel lines either (no leaks anywhere) i should clean the tps more, because as of right now it's doing nothing. I'll check my thermotime switch. there's 2 wires on it, correct? (found a picture of it so i could find it on my car, brb) cleaned up the connection, took a little bit but it deffinetly cleared up a bit. Now it's just hesitant and you have to rev it slowly. it's deffinetly the TPS now. i belive it may be out of adjustment, or just needs to be cleaned more. it's still running rich i think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacecoastz Posted September 16, 2007 Share Posted September 16, 2007 When looking at your thermostat housing from the front of the engine, you will see 2 sensors at the bottom. The 1 on the left is the Thermotime and is used by the ecu to determine if engine is cold or warm and the 1 on the right is your coolant temp sensor for your instrument panel. I would clean both while your there. You could also just have dirty injectors by the way. You say your running rich, but have you pulled any plugs? Are you seeing black exhaust? Are you just commenting on exhaust smell? Also just cleaning the connection doesn't mean the thermotime switch is good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted September 16, 2007 Author Share Posted September 16, 2007 i'm trying to think of other things it could be. i'm going to change the fuel filter and put 91 and injector treatment in it today. idle's high right now, but that's because i had to adjust it to get it running when the conections were shot. It DID run great yesterday morning, so i think it's just some connectors gummed up, or maybe the tps is going out (it might be both though) it's running rich. I put new plugs in, but i'll go check them. It did smell pretty damn rich yesterday before i changed the plugs (and the plugs were black) it's not smoking, but it does smell very gasy. the plugs were black, and also smelt very gasy (more so than it should is what i mean) it will rev as long as you do it slowly, but will bog down if you try to hit the gas to hard (if you floor it, it'll hesitate for a while and pop out the intake a bit, but will rev slowly. if i were driving, it would slow down a ton because there's no power) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetleaf Posted September 16, 2007 Share Posted September 16, 2007 What is your Fuel pressure at? Are you sure the return line isn't clogged?.. Also, make sure not to run the car empty or even close with the old gas. It will suck all the crap into your lines, pump, and injectors. Drain, drop, and clean your tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted September 16, 2007 Author Share Posted September 16, 2007 i don't have a fuel pressure guage, but the lines are most likely clogged and dirty. I'm going to clean it all out today as my main goal. i'll take off the fuel rail, clean out the injectors, replace the filter, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted September 16, 2007 Author Share Posted September 16, 2007 it quit popping through the intake if you floor it. instead it stutters and hesitates, slowly building up the rpms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted September 17, 2007 Author Share Posted September 17, 2007 few updates that caused setbacks. I changed my filter (that was a pain) i need to flush the lines and tank FOR SURE (or better yet, get a new tank) my fuseable link for my ignition relay was corroded, and the ground wire to the relay looked like it burnt once before. I cut out the bad section of wire and replaced it with a new piece, and cleaned up my fuseable links. fixed the problem right away. I looked at the spark plugs. some plugs are lean, others look rich. i DEFFINETLY need to get the injectors cleaned (I heard napa rebuilds them for 7 bucks a peice) I'm going to do all this before i actually start thinking it's other things. i'm realizing it's best to look at the most simple components before the more complex, because something dumb like a wire comming loose will make you think your relay is broken (or shorting out your entire electrical system) The copper leads on most of my connections are green. Whats the best way to take care of that? I tried using contact cleaner, but it wasn't effective enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280Zone Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 The green stuff will most liely need to be scrapped off using a small knife, very tedious. I also doubt Napa can rebuild your injectors for that price but if i am wrong let me know. I also have a Datsun/Nissan ECCS testing device I can plug into your ECU and determine what might be wrong. You are also right that it will be multiple little things before teh big things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted September 17, 2007 Author Share Posted September 17, 2007 I know all the injectors are firing (used the little screwdriver trick, all 6 are singing) i still think it might be the tps though. i searched up a bit here, and found that most people had problems with the tps, would have similar symptoms (hard starting, and terrible stumbling/reving) i CAN get it to rev, just now very well. if i just hold it WOT it sounds like it wants to die, and stumbles, but slowly builds rpms. I'm going to get the tank boiled next monday. Where should i bring it to get it boiled/lined for a good price? one of the guy's at checkers said napa rebuilds injectors for 7 bucks. I'll just clean them. they probably have a ton of crud in them. to take off the fuel rail, i have to take off the hoses from the rail to the injectors, and the hoses to and from the rail, correct? are there any special precautions i should take? (besides snapping injectors in half lol) (and i do know about reliving the fuel pressure.) getting the green crap out of the female end seems like it'd be impossible.... i'd need something like a pick to do it, which i dont' have. I'll do my best though when i get out of work tomorrow. does this sound like a bad tps though? idles fine, but any more throttle and it stutter's, hesitates, or nearly stalls out. but if you give it just the right amount, it'll rev up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted October 1, 2007 Author Share Posted October 1, 2007 I found my fuel issue! a portion of the fuel line going to the pump (not stock, it's from a 325 i) had twisted, then dry rotted. the twisted section, had a hole about 3mm in diameter. i blew through it, and it felt like blowing through a stirring straw!! as soon as i cut that section out (the rest of the line was perfectly fine) and fired the car up, i could go WOT no problem. now i just need to charge my battery, it's dead. after i get that taken care of, i think i need to re adjust the TPS, and adjust the timing, along with cleaning some conections here and there. i've got bad memory. when i first tried to start it, it wouldn't start. i was thinking wtf, the pump is working.....2 seconds later, i run to the back and pull the clamp i had on the fuel line to keep it from leaking on me, and it fired up. it was also overheating, but i found it was because a combination of things the thermostat looked like crap and the gasket, HAH, it was rotted away the lower rad hose was bad, and was collapsing and a the hoses going to the heater housing/thermal vacuum valve were dry rotted. I'm just waiting on a couple little parts to come in the mail on monday/tues and it should run like a champ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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