Guest Anonymous Posted November 28, 2002 Share Posted November 28, 2002 Hi guys, Happy Thanksgiving! Is there any advantage/disadvantage between coarse or fine threads? Thanks. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 29, 2002 Share Posted November 29, 2002 Yes, believe it....fine threads are stronger.. what they lack in thread depth is made up in the extra threads per inch. Actually the big coarse thread depth also takes away from the structural strength of the bolt and/or stud. As you know Coarse threads do not cross thread or strip out as easy and go on and come off faster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 29, 2002 Share Posted November 29, 2002 Thanks Tomahawk... I agree with the strength though I wasn't sure if there were other issues to consider. I won't be making any pit stops for tire changes anytime soon so fine threads are the way to go. Thanks again. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted November 29, 2002 Share Posted November 29, 2002 Since you are only talking about 70 to 80 ft.lbs. of torque on a large stud, either thread type is well under its tensile strength limit. There is no advatange to either thread in this application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 29, 2002 Share Posted November 29, 2002 John C in your experience..What forces or events break wheel studs other than over anxious tire changers armed with high powered impact "guns" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted November 30, 2002 Share Posted November 30, 2002 1. Improperly installed wheel studs. Most common example is "pulling" the wheel stud into place with a lug nut and some washers. 2. Cross threaded, worn wheel studs or lug nuts. 3. Lug nuts too tight. 4. Lug nuts not tight enough. 5. Wheel studs too short (at least 5 full threads engaged or the stud protruding from the nut when torqued to spec.) 6. Wheel studs damaged from an accident and not replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted November 30, 2002 Share Posted November 30, 2002 If you have ever replaced a flat-tire/wheel assembly from a 1960/70's 1ton truck (which had very fine threads, long and thick lug nut studs then you would know that the dissadvantage is in the fact you cant break the lug nuts even w/a breaker bar if the lug nuts were previously installed to tightly and a little rust exists. Instead what you end up doing is turning the wheel over as you apply torque: even under the weight of the vehicle; and due to the fine threads it takes forever to remove 8 lug nuts manually...."I'm venting right now". I once decided to do the nice thing and help an elderly man who was stranded due to a flat on his truck. I had my two & three foot breaker bar/sockets w/me so I thought nothing of it....until I tried to break the lug nuts free. This was in the heat of a Texas summer...I am definately expecting a merit badge from someone one of these days for that task. Your thread (no pun intended) triggered the horrible scars that fester deep in me....this must be therapy: I feel much better now-Thanks Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted November 30, 2002 Share Posted November 30, 2002 john, what's the proper way of putting studs into a hub? I admit, I used the improper impact gun/washer method. Right now I have to change them out anyways because of the accident I was in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 1, 2002 Share Posted December 1, 2002 Press them in from behind making sure the shoulder is seated absolutely square. This usually requires hub removal but if you modify a big C-Clamp (weld a deep socket on the screwing end) you can install the studs on the car. I have used the lug nut tighten down technique when in a hurry but it often doesn't seat the stud square. This creates side stresses and eventual failure. BTW... this is from a racing perspective. You might not ever have the stud fail on a normally driven street car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 1, 2002 Share Posted December 1, 2002 John, good tip on turning a big c clamp as a press to seat a wheel stud on the car..Just may use ann old c clamp that has been collecting dust to install longer studs for an adapter plate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 1, 2002 Share Posted December 1, 2002 Love the C-clamp idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted December 1, 2002 Share Posted December 1, 2002 when i put my studs in, i primed/tapped them in place lightly to make sure the stud's vertical threads lined up, and that it went in properly before I pulled it in. hopefully it won't cause problems, and I did this on the rears only. the front studs are probably stock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted December 2, 2002 Share Posted December 2, 2002 Thanks John for your studly insight. Seriously, I was about to ask the same question Alex did. I've just been lurking, waiting for your reply. Longer wheel studs are part of my next phase, if I ever get the car back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 2, 2002 Share Posted December 2, 2002 I recently installed 12 MM/1.5 pitch/55mm long studs on my 280 to support custom alloy wheels, as I needed longer studs. I had to use hardened washers so the nuts would not seat on the shoulder of the stud. I presume that this is ok, and that the alloy wheels holes ( stud concentric ) wont be damaged by movement under power. Am I ok with this? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 2, 2002 Share Posted December 2, 2002 If the lug nuts were the older mag wheel style with the shank that fits into the hole on the wheel, you should be fine. You have to run those with a steel washer. BTW... you might have to do some grinding on the c-clamp's forged end to get it to fit on the back side of the hubs. I seem to recall doing that, but my modified c-clamp "walked away" from the race trailer a couple years ago so I can't go and check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 2, 2002 Share Posted December 2, 2002 John, the nuts are regular rounded shoulder type, and with the washers they should self center on the individual wheel stud/holes. But again, there will be space (1/16 inch) in between the stud length wise and the holes in the wheels. I was told I really did not need nuts with a shaft that went into the wheel. Think I'm ok? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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