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Assembled Longblock


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they have a good reputation for quality of work with only rare complains which they tend to handle.

 

the same applies to these guys

 

http://www.ohiocrank.com/enginekits.html

 

 

while you get what you pay for , I can,t see spending 10K-12K on a small block when the same 10K-12K in a BIG BLOCK would produce a larger stronger engine with more potential rather than a maxed out sbc.

 

http://www.ultrastreet.net/poweradder/poweradder_long_bb.asp

 

Id tend to slightly favor SHAFIROFF but ID sure go big block if spending 12K, parts are much more massive/strong and theres far more potential in the bbc

 

 

look carefully

 

Stage II BBC- $12,125 1250 HP RATED

VS

Stage III SBC- $15,875 1250 hp RATED

 

even the 1500hp rated BBC is less

Stage III - $14,975

 

its just easier for the larger engine thats under less stress and has bigger valves, ports ETC to handle 1250 hp

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First of all research is great for your project but if I've read your posts right you are shipping a car from Ca. to you that you've not seen in person. I don't know your budget but if it was me I would see what has to be done to the body,suspension work,type of rear end and tranny,tires and rims,frame work, exhaust system, and numerous other odds and ends before I would spend alot of money on an engine with a car not ready for it. If you are going the blower route trust me you'll need a dyno shop near you and someone who knows what the Hell they are doing tuning wise. Also the blower route requires a very good cooling system set-up.

If you are budgeting $10,000 for the engine add $2,500 for the blower kit and let's say $20,000 on the rest and more. Good Luck on your project...

 

LARRY

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If you are budgeting $10,000 for the engine add $2,500 for the blower kit and let's say $20,000 on the rest and more. Good Luck on your project...

LARRY

 

I think you are being conservative in your dollar estimates :)

 

Damn, grumpy. That ohio crank company lists an engine with dual Holley 1150's. Amazing that a motor could use that much air. Probably takes a small fire hose for a fuel pump.

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I think you are being conservative in your dollar estimates :)

 

Damn, grumpy. That ohio crank company lists an engine with dual Holley 1150's. Amazing that a motor could use that much air. Probably takes a small fire hose for a fuel pump.

"why does a killer displacement BBC need TWO 1150 dominators, won,t one feed the engines needs"

Vega_Engine.JPG

 

 

EXAMPLE if youve never seen a tunnel ram

IMG_2456.jpg

 

yeah ONE will feed the engine but it may not make as much hp as TWO that are mounted on a correctly set up tunnel ram intake

 

the vacuum readings and the port designs and the A/F mix/ratio control come into play

read this

 

http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech-c.htm

 

remember that when your running DUAL QUADS theres 8 venturies VS 4 on a single carb feeding the exact same engines needs ,so the vacuum is far lower and the carbs flow less at the lower vacuum, if the carb flows 1150cfm at 1.5" or 3" of mercury like its rated running two drops the vacuum in 1/2 so each carb now only flows at 813 cfm or LESS

INTAKE PORTS are rated at 28" of water

an intake port on an 8 cylinder v8 that flows about 225 cfm at 28,INCHES will support about 450 hp

so thats not the same as 225x8=1800cfm needed in a carb,that feeds the ports, because theres no constant flow in the ports

 

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcdchg.htm

 

the main reason they run dual quads is to have a venturi DIRECTLY over each intake runner so they can effectively tune the individual A/F.. RATIO IN EACH IF NECESSARY

KEEP IN MIND THE ENGINE FLOWS AIR THRU THE RUNNER INTO THE CYLINDER ONLY DURRING A SMALL PERCENTAGE OF THE TIME

lets say your engines got a huge 296 degree cam (measured at .006 lift), theres a 720 degree cycle, the 296 degrees is about 40% of the time so your limited to much less true flow than the rated flow thats taken at a stated flow rate taken at a steady flow state, now your EFFECTIVE PULSED flows down to about 600-400 cfm per carb, because of a trade off in reversion (REVERSE FLOW) when the valves close and shared bleed off too other cylinders needs when they open

keep in mind a dirrect shot from a wide open venturie into the runner aimed dirrectly at the back of the intake valve is the prefered high rpm port config, vacuum readings of about 1" and air/fuel ratios of about 12.6:1 are prefered for max power at high rpms ,but its not necessarily ideal at low rpms at part throttle

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Thanks for the replies and input. Car was bought and shipped from Nevada. Once I get the car I will look over it with a fine tooth comb for any defects/problems on the "major" parts of the car such as the rear end, frame rails, wiring, body rust (the pics of the car look VERY good and was told there was NO rust on the undercarriage) etc... Once I assess the car is in good condition I will start buying parts for the V8 swap.

 

This will primarily be a street rod with some minor track use once every few months

 

I'm not sure what "modifications" over the SBC install I would need to make If I did install a BBC. I have the JTR manual and have went thru it numerous times to get familar with it, but like you know it only discusses the SBC... I'm no stranger to the forced induction world myself and I'm good friends with an excellent mechanic shop who has a Dyno for the tuning phase, so that aint an issue :)

 

Keep the input coming guys !

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Grumpy, the "550 Urban Assault Engine" from Ohiocrank seems like a nice setup! Even if it's NA :icon45:

 

I emailed Ohiocrank about the setup and asked for a detailed parts list.

 

Although, Speedomotive makes a nice budget friendly blown 383 stroker (my original idea)

http://www.speedomotive.com/ps-174-69-chevy-383cid-street-rod-blower-stroker-engine.aspx

 

Oh decisions........

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