Road racer alignment specs?

[Mudge]

What is a recommended alignment for a road raced car, that is still street driven.

 

In other words I am not looking for -4º camber, but for someone to suggest less than -1º is ridiculous, unless for the rear. I ran -1.5º and wish I went for more, tire wear is not a problem and I dont expect it to be until I get beyond -2.0º

 

Suggestions on what works well?

[David K]

If you want to give an expert a call, try this guy. Ask for Darin.

 

West End Alignment

Phone: (310) 808-9233

 

Trust me, calling this guy is worth it! He does suspension and alignment for racers and he knows his stuff! Im sure somebody here can vouch for that. Just give him a call and pick his brain.

[Guest Anonymous]

Just for STREET grins, try:

 

-2 camber

4-5 degrees pos castor (you'll need adjustable t/c rods or shim the existing rods though I would get the adjustables)

1/16" toe-out fnt, 1/8" toe-in rear.

lower your ride height(got coil overs?)

Spring rates/shocks make a big difference also.

 

And check with Dando's Automotive in Fremont (Andy was a Nat RR champ in a Z) for ideas.

 

Call Custom Alignment in Mountain View to do the work. (and corner weighting if you want)

 

They both have web sites.

 

If you are driving a stock z now, you'll be grinning after.

 

DISCLAIMER: JUST MY OPIONION, YOU F**K UP YOUR CAR THAT'S YOUR PROBLEM.

[Mudge]

Yep, I use Custom Alignment for my other car but I'm going to try and do it myself this time. The car is lowered, but the struts are not up to the task for sure.

 

-2º camber in both front and rear?

[Guest Anonymous]

yeah -2 for street. Generally, more for front than rear (so set the rear at -1/75) around-3ish front for track... take tire temps. I think you know the routine. Maybe -3/16 or so for rear toe-in for track, talk to Custom alignment, they'll tell you adjustable control arms for the rear is the best way to go for toe. So far I like some toe-out in front 1/8". Haven't been able to run much positive caster in front but have heard that 4--6 is where most guys are at.

 

I've found that a lower ride height up to a point (like really low) is overrated. Better to have the right spring rate and shocks. I run tokiko illuminas on #5 in front, on #3 in rear for track. No rear swaybar. Fat sway up front. And so far 200lb frt, 250 rear eibachs but am going to up those rates soon. And of course tires help a lot!

 

I don't have the best set-up but it's fast enough for me right now. I'll have to become a better driver to justify better major suspension changes et al.

 

You'll have to spend some time to find what's good for you, as I'm sure you know. And ask the guys that are running Zs. If you have alignment tools you're that much ahead of the game! Maybe I'll see you at the track and you'll let me borrow them!

 

Regards.

 

Jon

[Mudge]

I dont have a pyrometer (still concentrating on learning to drive, much less engineer), so basically I "set it and forget it".

 

You've got considerably more power than I do, with that in mind should I keep the stock rear bar, or try removing it? I was going to upgrade the front bar and leave the rear stock, but am very new to these cars so I would appreciate further insight, and I GREATLY appreciate the experienced info! This will help get me going towards a good setup, so I can drive it without being aggrivated. Hoping to hit Sears this Jan.

 

Oh, from what little I know I also agree on the ride height, and from what I've heard from experienced road racers, too low = bottoming out or overly stiff suspension setups on many courses. I would like to obstruct air in the front more at some point, but I think the car is already pretty darn low as it is now, supposedly about 1.5" lowered, my ground clearance seems about the same as the Camaro, which at its lowest point is under 3" (crossmember). I scrape a couple speed bumps ever so slightly, probably on the exaust.

[Guest Anonymous]

Let me preface this with "my set-up works for me." BTW, I'm 130lbs after dinner.

 

I know guys that run a rear sway, a small one, and use it for tuning from track to track. Disconnect it and see what it does, just so you know how it feels. When I added a bigger frnt bar, I noticed a big difference in handling. Though I had coilovers and struts at that time, I feel that a bigger frnt sway is beneficial.

 

If you get some new coils (and coilovers are a nice way to do this and aren't that expensive), in my case the 200# front and 250# rear was for a "spritly" street driven L24 z, and some good struts (Illuminas were the best bang for MY buck because of the adjustablility) you should have a well mannered car. When I added the coil overs and struts I was able to adjust the car so it was predictable (controlled oversteer felt like it was pivoting between the front seats) as hell and I had a blast driving it (this was with the stock front sway bar and no rear bar). Since I put the SBF in it I've had to make some adjustments (mostly mental) but not many. Most of the changes I'm making now is so I can go faster on the track, not the street.

 

There are some guys on this board that REALLY race, or the ones that REALLY just know Zs. I've gleened a lot of information from them. If you search, you will find. Albeit you'll have to do a lot of reading! And you should use you own butt dyno (seat-of-the-pants), just don't kill yourself doing it.

 

I'm sure there's guys here that can configure your car based on your weight and how tight you clench your butt cheeks, and get it pretty close.

 

Have fun!

[randy 77zt]

since i work at a car repair shop i set my car up for the track then align it again after i take the track tires off .street i run 1.75 negative camber in front.track in run 3.2 negative.rear is set at 1.5 negative because of no camber plates.i dont like any toe out .i run just a little toe in 1/10 ".toe out makes car wander at speed.dont waste money on expensive street tires for track.i tried yoko avs and when they got hot they got greasy.just get a beater set of 15x7 with some kumho v700.i run my track tires on wheels from pick&pull.

[Dan Baldwin]

I drive my car (sometimes LONG distances) to the race track, and I'm a lazy bastard who doesn't want to change his settings all the time. I leave mine at about -2.25 deg front, -1.75 degrees rear. Toe is about zero at the front, and maybe 1/16 - 1/8" rear(?). I've only got about 2.5 degrees caster at the front, but I'm not worried about that as I like the way the car feels and it doesn't have any contradictory handling traits in low- vs. high-speed corners. Be aware that spring rates, roll bars, and differential type (open, limited slip, welded) will affect your handling characteristics as well. When changing setups, keep in mind every change you make is likely to affect balance, so be ready to make changes in different areas to keep the car handling neutrally.