straight axle for my drag 240?

[Guest Anonymous]

hey out there...i plan to build a street legal dragster 240 after i finish my chevy v8 restoration 260Z. has anyone put the straight axle under there? im thinkin ford 9 inch... how do you hook up the leaf or coil over suspension? and how is the easiest way for some sort of sub frame for it to bolt to? thanx!

[Mike kZ]

I used a Street/Strip suspension made by Jeg's. They were called

Jegster S/S Bars. They are a great suspension for cars with low

ground clearances like the Z. Now here's the bad part, I haven't

seen them advertised in the last 5 catalogues or so. I would call

them and ask if they still build them at 1-800-345-4545. The old

part number is 550-41001, $299.99 for the bars. Front mounts,

track rod,shock mounts, were extra. So are the coil over shocks.

P.S. instead of using the track rod as is, I shortened it and used it

as a Panhard rod. It attaches on the top of the dif, on the

passenger side, over to the drivers side of the frame. This holds

the rear end more stable. I also tilted the top of the coil overs 10

degree inwards / . This will help the car handle better. My dif ( a shortened 12 bolt Chevy with moser axles, posi, 3:73 gers, and disc brakes)is I think 45" hub to hub, but I'm guessing. What I did was,

first mount the tires on the rims I wanted. After removing the old

IRS, I rolled the tires under the car to see how much to cut out of

the floor. I then cut the wheel tubs down the middle, and removed

what was left, but keep them you'll use them later. Next I bought

some 2"x 2" square tubing for the rear frame. I cut out what ever

old frame that was in the way and designed a new frame rail per

side. I kept the cubby holes, but part of the frame goes into them.

I connected the front part of the new frame to the stock part of the

frame that the old IRS was attached to nearest the front of the car

(the forward part where the rear A arm was attached too). The back

part of the new frame was welded to the bumper frame, I also

added some small sections from the new to what was left of the old

frame. I also made some frame connectors out of 1 1/2 x 3" tubing

to connect the front frame at the firewall to the same stock rear

frame the new frame rails are welded too. These will be used for the

front mounting point of the S/S bars.

I made sure I had between

3/4 to 1" clearance between the tire and fender, and tire and frame.

I made a small hump in the new frame over the dif for suspension

clearance. You can see the floor is higher in some of the pics at my site.

These are street/strip bars.

"In street mode, the right bar functions as a torque arm, and the left bar is a suspension link. This allows both tires to stay on the ground during body lean while cornering, as well as prevents wheelhop and maintains traction under acceleration or uneven roads.

In strip mode, both bars function as an easy to adjust ladder bar. The upper tube of a conventional ladder bar is not needed, thus providing maximum clearance.

Jegsters S/S Rear Suspension Bars are universal in design and feature polyurethane bushings in the front mounting holes. Fully adjustable for wheelbase, pinion angle and preload on the rear, via a left/right hand treaded link. The left bar features an additional quick disconnect provision that changes the function from a ladder bar to a suspention link."

All you have to do is install a large bolt in the left bar and they become ladder bars, it's pretty easy. The bars prevent the dif from rotating, along with the coil overs

550-41003 - S/S front mount brackets (for vehicles with ground clearance limitations)

550-41004 - S/S track rod w/polyurethane bushings. (I modified this to be a panhard bar, better for the street). Both of these were $69.99.

For the coil overs I used the Pro/Series 2000 coil-over mount &shock kit from S&W Racecars 1-800-523-3353. I bought the deluxe 3 position 5" mounts with 12" 130# springs, part#40-223C-130 (these springs are for drag racing, but are too soft for the street. Since then I bought progressive 130/250# springs from Jeg's part# 122-12-130/250)or you can buy 200, or 250# springs from S&W Racecars. The price for the mount/shock kit is $259.95 . No I didn't have to cut behide the seats, in fact I left the stock cubby holes back there. My new frame partially goes through them. I'm running 295-50-15 tires on 15X10" rims

[Guest 2002sentraSER]

how much was the total cost plus install and where did you get all the parts and also how much power will it hold up to?

[Mike kZ]

The total cost was around $2000, that's with me doing all the labor. The diff itself was around $1300, that included shortening, rebuild the posi, new gear set, replace all bearings, new moser axles, and disc brakes. All the parts are listed, frame material, and diff were bought locally. It should be able to handle what ever you throw at it. No u-joints or half shafts to break! I have a few pics if you want me to email them to you.

[Guest 2002sentraSER]

yeah if you can that would be great and also is the swap you did cost more or less than a ford 9" rear swap

[Mike kZ]

I think it may be cheaper, if you can find a local to shorten, and rebuild it. Most 9" need aftermarket stuff to make it stronger which costs money. I think the light weight Z can handle a close to stock 12 bolt or 9" with gobs of power and not break. I will send you some pics.

[Guest 2002sentraSER]

that look nice as hell and curious where are you located and what kind of power are you putting to the ground and what motor and trans combo and do you have any other pics and thanks for the pics

[Mike kZ]

Originally posted by 2002sentraSER:

that looks nice as hell and curious where are you located and what kind of power are you putting to the ground and what motor and trans combo and do you have any other pics and thanks for the pics

I'm located north east of Atlanta off of I-85. Right now I'm putting about 375hp to the ground with a fuel injected 327, and a T56 6 speed. In the future I may be adding a 150hp shot NOS! What other pics do you want?

[Guest 2002sentraSER]

so you are running like low 11,s right now right

[Cable]

Pretty sweet setup, I have considered going the 9" route, but haven't decided on anything.

 

If I were to go with a straight axle, I'd tub it enough to fit a 28x12x15 tire under the thing.

[280Zone]

I would be interested in seeing those pictures to if possible.

 

Thanks

[Mike kZ]

I have some pics here: http://327-240z.freeservers.com/

[Cable]

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=973&prmenbr=361

 

It doesn't say it the ad, but how long are the beams themselves?

 

 

Thanks!!

[Cable]

......I also made some frame connectors out of 1 1/2 x 3" tubing to connect the front frame at the firewall to the same stock rear

frame the new frame rails are welded too. These will be used for the

front mounting point of the S/S bars.

 

 

I look over your site (loved the 409 Impala). I was curious if you had any pics of the section quoted above?

 

Sounds like a great way to mount the S/S bars' date=' but a picture would be great to see the 1 1/2" x 3" tubing running under the car.

 

If you want to email me the pictures: [email']Project_BBZ@ComCast.net[/email]

 

Thanks in advance for the help!!

[Mike kZ]

The "beams" are around 24" long, I would have to measure them.

 

The frame connectors are installed the usual way, check out Jeff's frames here: http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=35320&highlight=frame+connector

The lower mount of my "beams" are mounted to this. Check pic from my site.

[Guest Blazer406]

Bump for some good info.

 

I just emailed you for all the details and to send me some pics....but I see you have most of the details here.

 

What would you do differently if you had to do it again?

 

I see you said the rear was 45" hub to hub but that was from memory... Is that what it is? I am goint to try and find a rear end already narrowed... maybe.

 

 

Thanks for the info.

[Mike kZ]

Bump for some good info.

 

I just emailed you for all the details and to send me some pics....but I see you have most of the details here.

 

What would you do differently if you had to do it again?

 

I see you said the rear was 45" hub to hub but that was from memory... Is that what it is? I am goint to try and find a rear end already narrowed... maybe.

 

 

Thanks for the info.

 

I did get your email, but I'll answer you here.

 

I like my setup, the only thing I would do differently is use shorter coil springs. The kit I have uses 12" springs, and the majority of the spring is compressed sitting level. I think I will buy some 10" springs and try that.

 

45" is from memory. I depends on the tire/wheel combo you are using, and how much you narrow the frame rails.

[dr_hunt]

I've got a 9 inch under mine, narrowed, with ladder bars. and a diagonal bar. The panhard bar is not the best set up for drag. Read all the pro's tips, for ladder bar suspension with or without coil overs the diagonal bar offers the least binding and more consistent center during entire suspension travel cause it is LONGER so it doesn't swing such a small arc as the panhard bar does.

 

9 inch rears are every bit as good if not better than a 12 bolt and easier to change gears in. Parts are cheaper for 9 inch than 12 bolt and easier to find. Complete NEW housing ready to bolt in with Wilwood disc's, moser axles, detroit locker, 4.11 gears, bearings, bearing retainers,, 1350 yoke etc, etc, mine was 2K delivered to the door.

 

Stock 31 spline axles will handle around 8K torque and that is with slicks. Aftermarket 31's will go more. So that is a 550 to 600 lb-ft torque engine with slicks that stick. I've run detroit lockers for years, on the street, Nascar uses them on ovals and so should you. Don't fix it if it isn't broke. Stick with the 12 bolt if you want all "Chevy". Chevy has better engines, ford has better rear end. Actually it was probably their one best idea and their worst idea was canning the FE series blocks and the famous 427 side oiler.

 

I fit a 29.5x10x15 slick under mine fine. Putting new coil overs and ditching the stock type shocks and coil spring setup it came with.[/b]

[Hugh]

Wow, you stuck some mean tires pretty close together on that one. I wish I had that fabrication ability. Once I learned how to weld and have my own garage to work in, maybe...

 

For now I have to do the cutting and pay someone to do the welding.

 

I'd like to do something along the lines of your setup, but leave the read end a little wider and flare it out. I'm just weary of narrow cars that pick up the front tires.... seen one flip over at carlsbad a couple months back.

[dr_hunt]

Yes, the narrower you get it the less stable it becomes, not to mention pizza cutters don't help control of the front end. My solution is just build more HP and don't quibble about a few pounds here and there, just go with safety.

 

Shop, welding..... It's cake. Learn how to weld with tech school class or something. Buy a good MIG/TIG. I have one, was about 8K, but does aluminum, stainless, and regular steel. Build you a shop out of steel pipe and pro-panel. Build cars till you sick. Take two asprin and call me in the morning.