Alternatives to SBC JTR motor mounts?

[gdv350ss]

There's a thread now posted over in the Ford V-8 section discussing "Speedway" motor mount designs for that application. I know the Ford guys are forced to create their own and to me this type/style looks like it might be a good solution.

 

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/3274,405_SandB-Ford-Motor-Mounts.html

 

I know that the JTR mounts are the tried and true! I think JTR's manuals are very informative; I've read and re-read both of my JTR manuals many times! I know that almost every pre-LSx swap uses the bolt in JTR mounts >> but whenever I look at them they just kinda look like a jury-rigged solution. (Please don't shoot me, just my opinion)

 

Using an untried alternative solution will present many issues >> engine placement, vibrations, drive line angles and welding but that said, what are your thoughts around options something like these:

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TRD%2D4840&autoview=sku

 

or

 

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/3273,405_Small-Block-Big-Block-or-90-V6-Chevy-Crossmember-Mounts.html

 

(?) Thanks!

[RTz]

As this is HZ, 'alternative solutions' are the name of the game. However, those items linked would still require fitment (and further solutions), whereas JTR mounts are a bolt on. Not better. Not worse. Just a different approach.

[Pop N Wood]

I copied another member's design and essentially made a crossmember similar to your links when installing an LS motor. For the LS motor it is a good solution cause the motor mounts are near the middle of the LS block.

 

But a first gen SBC has the mounts farther forward. As it is my crossmember is only a few inches behind the stock crossmember. I think trying to use a second crossmember on a first gen SBC would put the new crossmember right on top of the stock unit.

 

I think the JTR set back plates only move the engine a few inches back. Not much room for a second crossmember.

[LT1-280z]

Speedway has good stuff and good prices - super easy to deal with, recommend them.

 

I agree about the JTR mount, bolt in? sure, but not as refined as could be if you like to fabricate.

 

Here's what I did for my LT1. Tied the cross-member to the T/C rod mount with a piece of 1/8" steel bent to form a pie shaped "U" channel and welded it to cross-member (cross-member and new addition are still totally bolt in - 4 more bolts at the T/C mounts). Then used 2" square tubing to make a perch for the engine mounts. I used the same mounts specified by JTR. A long mounting bolt comes up from the bottom. (a breeze to install the engine). This mount did a few things, strengthened the frame by tying the cross-member to the T/C mounts , Mounted the engine lower and further rear than the JTR mount , left room (after slight notching) for the AC compressor using the stock Camaro LT1 location , and whacked out my drive-line angles (see http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127832 for that fix)

 

I don't know if there's enough room for an LSx but there's a pretty wide area on the pie shape to go further back.

 

[wheelman]

I've been contemplating using one of these universal crossmembers lately due to the requirement to replace my frame rails and I'm going to install power steering. My main concern is that the crossmember would interfere with the steering shaft and place the engine to low.

 

BTW: The JTR mounts move the engine as far as 3 1/2" inches closer to the firewall than the Scarab position. My bell housing ends up only 3/4" from the firewall, tough to go much further back than that unless you drop the engine on the floor. There should be plenty of room for a second crossmember with the stock one installed. I wouldn't go any lower than than the JTR mount position as the oil pan is already 1" below the crossmember and it creates some really wacked out driveline angles.

 

Wheelman

[gdv350ss]

Good discussion!

 

Pop N Wood & Wheelman >> I'm not certain that there is enough room for the second crossmember but I think there might be. Like you Wheelman I have more concerns about intereference with the steering shaft and the finished height of the engine. (May need to add an additional plate to the rails to adjust height?)

 

LT1-280Z >> What a great looking Z. A stunning example of home brewed engineering with professional execution in every detail!

 

To further this discussion, I'm posting an in progress pic from Bartman's great LT1 build that best shows the area of concern near the steering shaft and motor mounts.

 

This helps me to visualize the issue but I'm still left scratching my head as to what might or might not work in regards to other mount designs(?)

 

 

Here are some pics of other types of weld on mounts. Anything here of interest?

 

 

[LT1-280z]

Thanks gdv350ss.

 

Here's a picture of the steering shaft area in my Z. I have a Mustang power rack. The input shaft is higher and a little to the outside. This puts it right in the way of the stock perch area. With the perch moved rearward you can see the shaft has a clear shot and clears the block hugger header nicely.

 

As far as how low the engine is, I'm using the corvette pan to gain a little more clearance - absolutely nothing is lower than the frame rails. The harmonic damper is about 1/2" above and centered directly over the rack. I would estimate a little more than an inch further back than the picture of the JTR mount gdv350ss posted.