OR-JO Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 Here are some pics of the header that came with the Z I just bought. The P.O. said he thinks the header came of a 240, which is pretty meaningless I think. So what do you think? Are these things junk or worth putting on? Look like they would fit? Here's my long term NA L28 Exhaust plan: - Headers would be sweet - sweeter if these could work because, well - they're paid for. - Love the sound of the twice pipes (like Mario's settup), just two loud. HAVE TO HAVE TO HAVE TO run a cat with whatever exhaust setup I choose. Car is due for emissions in 10 months and I'm not HARD CORE enough to just throw a cat on for testing. PLUS... - Holy hell the fumes. Exhaust fix is Item #1 on my Z2Do list. Then sealing everything and anything. BUT...I'm not ready to commit to a full exhaust yet, and I'm ready to do some tinkering. I was hoping I could throw these headers on, RUN 'EM OPEN FOR A BIT, then hook up my future exhaust...in the future. This Z is not a DD by any means, I don't want to get pummeled out of the car by noise but right now I'm being pummeled out of the car by fumes (won't drive it) so I thought at least running an open header FOR NOW would possibly eliminate the fumes coming in from the full length exhaust. Here's a pic of the current header termination, if that's pertinent. Also, by fumes, I'm talking f u m e s. Visible at times. Stained rear carpeting from fumes (just yanked that out). I know the hatch leaks like a m-f-er, as also noted by this pond in the empty spare tire bay. I will be sealing the hell out of the entire cabin, I can assure you. -- In related news, can anyone tell me about this other mystery object currently connected to....something. The PO told me upon purchase it can be adjusted to make the engine run smoother/leaner/richer/better...Bueller? Custom install complete with ducktape - now left for me to decipher. And one more thing If I can turn this into a ramble - the grossest part of the engine bay right now is the busted air intake box thing - anything reasonable to be done about that (the plastic and metal junction is broken)? Simple replacement option? -- As you answer these questions, note: - Car is fun street machine for my wife and I. - I'm capping this project at about $1500 for whatever it is I want to do with it. General tune up, exhaust, DIY body work, DIY paint (gun), DIY interior dynamat/rhino lining/, else....? When and if our business blows up AND the current L28 blows up, then I'd like to seriously look at a V8 conversion - just not now, and both those criteria must be met first. - I like this Z and I really like working on stuff I know I can fix, BUT, I'm not supertriple hardcore about cars in general, let alone race cars, hotrods, or money pits sitting in my driveway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveosupremeo Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 i'll try to answer some of the questions for you. the duct taped thing looks like a potentiometer. its a variable resistance device that appears to be wired into your coolant temp sensor making the ECM think the vehicle is colder than it actually is, therefore dumping more fuel in. probably not the best thing in the world for a stock motor. the headers although square port will probably seal on that round port head, if the flange is straight. i assume by the engine bay that its a 77 or 78 and that you have a stock N47 head. and if a loud exhaust bothers you, i'd leave them off and just get a nice MSA manifold-back system or used the headers with a cat and a muffler. also, yes your air box is a little rusty but not as bad as the sheet metal next to it. i'd take care of that. will probably need a new core support from a donor or something fabricated in. first gen z's aren't the best at keeping fumes out. but new tail light gaskets, new rear hatch seal(if needed) and any rust holes around the rear area will need to be addressed first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonfly Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 I am only answering your question about your headers. I don't have a straight on picture so I will post two pictures... Does that look familiar? Well it should it is the exact same header you have in your picture but without the "Y" addapter welded on. The header is (or was) sold by Motorsport as a non smog (no air tubes) 3 into 2 into 1 header with a mandrel bent 2.5" exhaust and a turbo muffler. It is a little rusty now but I bought this kit brand new back in 1991. The kit was designed so that each piece slipped together, appearantly with yours someone was having a problem with the "Y" addapter coming loose so they decided to have it welded, it also looks like they removed the mandrel bent 2.5" exhaust for a crush bent one. Any way after all the above chatter what it comes down to is that unless you know that the engine has a cam in it that will benifit from the header your better off just going with a stock exhaust manifold. Dragonfly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OR-JO Posted December 11, 2007 Author Share Posted December 11, 2007 That's good info gents! Thanks much for your time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonfly Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 So after looking at this picture again I have to ask... How much water does the spare tire well hold? If you pull that rubber plug out it will let the water drain out, and I would leave the rubber plug out until I fixed where the water is coming in from. Standing water is a great breeding ground for both rust and misquitos. Dragonfly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OR-JO Posted December 11, 2007 Author Share Posted December 11, 2007 There was probably about 20oz of water in the spare tire well. The leak has been fixed for the moment because the Z has now moved into the two car garage for repair. And yeah, I know about standing water. The Z sat outside for 4 days in the Oregon rain but the water in the spare tire well was my first indication that the leaky hatch was REALLY leaky (aside from the fumes I knew were coming in). No mosquito bites here in December. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest iufan993 Posted December 15, 2007 Share Posted December 15, 2007 And one more thing If I can turn this into a ramble - the grossest part of the engine bay right now is the busted air intake box thing - anything reasonable to be done about that (the plastic and metal junction is broken)? Simple replacement option? You can get a cold air intake with a K&N filter and scrap the thing. There are a few options available. MSA makes one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 I had my spare tire well fill up once... Just pop out that littlr rubber plug and the water will drain out on top of your gas tank and then onto the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted January 1, 2008 Share Posted January 1, 2008 I actually don't use that snorkel that attaches to the air box. it has a clamp shaped like the 2 parts, and holds it together. the rubber part on the airbox works as a seal of sorts. from the looks of it you're just missing that clamp, but the picture is kinda blury. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrZ Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Hi DragonFly, what do you call the waterpump you have there? with the pulley on your engine? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonfly Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Hi DragonFly, what do you call the waterpump you have there? with the pulley on your engine? Thanks It is this one made by Moroso http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MOR%2D63750&autoview=sku it will require a couple of modifications. You have to decrease the diameter of the stock water pump mounting plate (where the black pully is mounted) you will have to drill holes in the black pulley to line up with the holes in your stock water pump mounting plate, you will also have to notch the support ribs on the backside of the stock water pump mounting plate to clear the black pulley. Also you will need to use the larger diameter electric motor pulley offered seperately from the kit. I made my own mounting brackets out of aluminum in order to clear the engine block which required me to need a longer belt (purchased from McMaster Carr). All combined including the cost of a new stock water pump I paid around $150 for the whole thing which is $100 less than the price of the CSR electric pump which is a direct bolt on. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CSI%2D928&N=700+115&autoview=sku BTW when I did mine it was before the CSR was offered for the Z or I would have paid the extra money for the CSR. Dragonfly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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