Kazuya1274 Posted January 10, 2003 Share Posted January 10, 2003 Hi all, I am wanting to convert my 280zx to manual rack and pinion steering. Right now, it has recirculating ball, which is heavy, leaking, and unresponsive. My ? is, what parts from a manual rack car do I need to do the swap? My main concern is whether I need to swap the front crossmember or control arms w/ the manual rack versions. Has anyone tackled this before, or know what parts I need? Thanks, Calen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted January 10, 2003 Share Posted January 10, 2003 First decide if you want to change to the manual rack-and-pinion or the power assisted rack-and-pinion. The 280ZX used both (as well as your recirculating ball box). The front suspension crossmember, lower control arms and outer tie rods must be changed with the rack. The front suspension crossmember lower control arms are different for each rack! The best way to do it is find a suitable ZX donor car and get everything you need. The swap is a lot easier if the engine is out of the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gerryG Posted January 12, 2003 Share Posted January 12, 2003 I JUST got thru doing this very thing - for the very same reasons. I ran a "Want" ad on Zcar.com and got a reply from Ron Smith in PA. It seems he is in the business of taking Z's apart. I got several offers of donor cars, but I don't have a place to keep a donor car. You need: Rack with rod ends from 79' manual front crossmember from any R&P car (79-83) steering rod ( it is longer) the thicker "U" joint bushings from a R&P car When I got my parts, I had the frame Xmember, clamps, and bolt heads powder coated - good move - cost $75 Installation very straight forward. When you remove the PS pump, the bottom attach bolt on the front of the head must be exchanged for a shorter one - guess how I found this out... the FSM manual is a good guide on alignment. A friend of mine weighed the parts - said I lost nearly 30# off the front of the car. I really like this setup..A LOT be sure and have front end realigned by a shop after you do the rough alignment. I used a tape measure to set the toe in = 1/16".. good enough to get it to a shop LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted January 13, 2003 Share Posted January 13, 2003 You need: front crossmember from any R&P car (79-83) I may have a very important correction here....I learned it the hard way and don't want anyone else going thru that. My car was in the bodyshop and I was prepping a full new front setup and got a spare R&P crossmember (year/power assist or not unknown at this time) blasted/painted etc.....day came for install and the steering rack mount 'flanges' on the prepped Xmember were some 3/16" further apart than my OEM Xmember This swap had been planned and within that 2 day period it had to happen as part of a timing sequence.......no way to alter that crossmember reasonably so my OEM one got yanked/cleaned up/blasted/painted in less than ideal conditions. I still have the 'wrong' one in the corner of my shop nice'n'clean/painted looking like new as a reminder So do be sure your intended rack fits the intended Xmember......it sits in those flanges with the bushings quite snug for a proper install. Mine's always been the manual R&P and I bought a full replacement rack for fine value new/rebuilt from my local auto parts place, included rod ends/new boots and lifetime warrantee I've been quite pleased with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gerryG Posted January 18, 2003 Share Posted January 18, 2003 Thanks for the correction - I didn't know that. I have both crossmembers and they "looked" alike. I used the 79' in my power-manual conversion. I guess it was a good thing. I was just being lazy - I didn't want to remove the power one from the parts car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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