My Budget 350 (And I mean Budget!)

[Top Secret]

So, about a month ago I picked up an old Targetmaster 350 motor with somewhere between 10,000 and 100,000 miles on it for cheap. It had every accessory imaginable (No, no Weiand blower I'm afraid) and is bone stock.

 

I am currently building my first car (A 1973 240z) on a budget. Yesterday, I pulled everything off of the motor that I do not intend to use (freeing up some WHP no doubt!)

 

-The smog pump and smog equipment

-A/C Compressor

-Power Steering pump

-Stock cooling fan (going electric)

 

Note: I believe this is the same engine that was used for CHP's baseline 350 budget build here: http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/463...

 

Stock Dyno'd at 239 Horses if I remember correctly.

 

Stock config for the motor is as follows:

 

-Q-Jet 4 barrel carb

-GM dual plane intake manifold

-993 Casting Heads (Supposedly these flow like 883's but are a heavier casting?)

-Stock "RV" flat tappet cam

-Cast iron manifolds (Ugh)

-stock short block

- about 8-1 compression:

 

Current Build Plan -

 

-Leave the Q-Jet carb.

 

-Port and polish the heads and intake myself. (Never done this before, but hey, it's a learning experience!) using that SA kit. According to the CHP this is good for about 20 WHP, should be fun if nothing else!

 

-POSSIBLY do my own 3 angle valve job depending on the cost of the dies. From what I've found, they are about $250, but as always I NEVER have a problem buying tools. I'll spend 500 bucks on tools before I spend $100 on a performance part.

 

-Exhaust is going to consist of Summit Block Hugger headers here: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autof...

Only 2.5 inch collectors but I am sure they are boatloads better than those stocker manifolds! Running 2.5 inch straight pipes for about 4 feet past that. No muffler, no cat.

 

-Edelbrock Performer Intake (I am considering getting a Victor Jr intake as I will be using it for another project down the road)

 

-Thin Felpro gasket to do SOMETHING about that horrid compression ratio!

 

-The cam is the only thing I am "unsure" about. I really don't like the idea of an RV cam in a 2500 pound car. What do you fellas recommend?

 

2500 pound car, muncie 4 speed, 3.3~ rear end

Looking for 300+ flywheel horsepower. I know going with the biggest cam possible usually isn't the best idea for street ability, but this is meant to be a FUN car, and am not concerned about loosing bottom end on a 2500 pound car.

 

With the stock cam, I am guessing somewhere around 290-300 flywheel. What do you guys think is attainable with a mild cam?

 

Total Cost: (Including possible tool expenditures)

300 to 700 depending on what I go with. (Getting the dies, a new cam, etc)

 

Criticism is VERY much welcomed!

[grumpyvette]

http://www.rustpuppy.org/chp/Welcome.html

 

take the time too read thru this

(read thru EACH of the 5 stages)

AFTER reading thru, ask questions and Ill try to maximize your results on that meager budget, in the mean time Id suggest looking around for whats available in YOUR area in used intakes and carbs, and DO A COMPRESSION TEST & LEAK DOWN TEST on your engine,& verify the oil pressure and bearings condition,verify,the head casting numbers,post the cylinder PSI readings, verify your rear gear ratio, BUT DON,T BUY a darn thing untill we discuss it, because that current PERFORMER intake is probably a good choice,for a basically mildly reworked engine

 

 

DON,T EVEN THINK ABOUT SPENDING A DIME untill you verify the basic engines compression and bearings etc are in good shape, then you can formulate a specific plan with a parts list, spending money rather than THINKING IT THRU FIRST might be more fun but its SURE to result in a less than IDEAL combo.

heres a little secret....in order to have a fast fun car IT MUST CONTINUE TO RUN without breaking down, in order to win races you must FINISH RACES in GOOD running condition

 

 

 

 

http://www.diyporting.com/Shrouding.html

 

http://www.ruffstuff.com/

 

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/do-it-yourself.aspx

 

theres a HUGE differance between grinding castings and doing constructive port improvements, but if you take the time to get a good grasp on the concepts its faily easy to make a few extra hp with minor port/bowl clean-up work

[grumpyvette]

"Anyone have any idea how big of a cam these 993 heads would take?

'

 

3998993....72-current...307/350......75cc chambers

 

http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp

 

playing with your options shows that If the cylinder head gasket is a steel SHIM type,at about .015-.018 thick,this also puts the quench/squish at about the correct distance

 

 

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FPP%2D1094&autoview=sku

 

do the math,assuming flat top pistons the true static cpr is at about 9:1,that and the stock valve trains spring clearance that limits you to about a .475 lift will limited you to about a 35 degrees past bdc intake close point, and knowing from past builds that a 108 lca will be about the most effective at producing power...

 

http://www.crower.com/misc/valve_timing_chart.html#108

 

we quickly find that that translated to a 222 durration at .050 lift on that 108 LCA.

 

E110321

 

http://www.mr-gasket.com/pdf/Chevrolet.pdf

 

 

now that we know your using a manual trans and the 3.3:1 rear gears, we find that the performer intake won,t be a bad choice,(the performer RPM would probably be a slight improvement)

and youll want 1.5/8" long tube headers

 

btw get a wider LCA,a larger durration or a thicker head gasket and youll rapidly loose effective cylinder compression and loose power as a result, remember choices will almost always involve compromises, and youll need to maintain a minimum cylinder pressure and airflow rate at the rpm ranges the engine operates in,to maximize the tq curve

 

thats the WILDEST cam that will maintain both a reasonable cylinder pressure and maintain a semi decent low rpm tq curve, all the factors point to that particular cam as about the best match given the limited info you posted, and I would use it!

your saving grace here is the manual trans and very light car with the 3.3 rear gear ratio, that will allow you to run more durration than a similar car like a nova or camaro that would be 500-900 lbs heavier

[280zwitha383]

Vortec heads and intake???

You could go from 75cc combustion chambers to 64cc and have a lot better flow. You'd need a new intake but I'm sure you could sell the one you've got and buy a vortec style for just a few more dollars. Even under the lift limit of the vortec heads you could make 300hp easily and maybe 350. I think for 700-800 dollars it's worth the money. If you can find some used heads you could do it for a few hundred cheaper than that even.