Top Secret

Am I the only guy here runnin' a Muncie?

Will these fit on a JTR V8 1973 240z in the set back position? So far I've read: - They don't fit and hit the frame rail - One Time -They don't fit because they hit the steering equipment. - One Time -They do fit and you just need to use shorter spark plugs - One Time - They fit just fine. - One Time A definitive answer would be very nice, if possible. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG9060&N=700+115&autoview=sku I've searched and searched and I can only seem to come up with conflicting answers. (Even searched google for about 15 minutes) I revived that thread below but by the looks of the "view" counts since before not many people looked at it. If these don't fit, than I suppose I will be ordering the Sanderson Huggers through Stealth Conversions, but if they do fit, I would very much like to know! As per standard affair, anyone who answers my question will be awarded 10 GMPP 572 Turn Key motors. I can only afford to give out the 620 HP version, however... *EDIT* I've just read the PDF manual on the Summit Site for the Block Huggers - The manual states that they are FLOWTECH Block Huggers re-branded with the Summit Name! Did a quick search for FlowTech on here and they do indeed fit! Feel free to delete the thread or keep it up for future knowledge!

1973 240z.................................900.00 350/Muncie.............................1100.00 Exhaust............................,.......150.00 JTR Mounts...............................300.00 Radiator+Fan.............................175.00 Driveshaft.................................100.00 Fluids+Hoses..............................200.00 Tachometer.................................35.00 Bolts..........................................15.00 Total $2975~ Should be on the road in two months! Factor in tools I've bought? Add Another 2000 Dollars

I would also like to know this... Do the summit block huggers fit on a 1st Gen small block Z car? JTR kit... These: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG9060&N=700+115&autoview=sku A guy at LS1tech just told me they don't, but I thought I had remembered reading a post here where they do...

Very impressive! Lightweight too.

So, about a month ago I picked up an old Targetmaster 350 motor with somewhere between 10,000 and 100,000 miles on it for cheap. It had every accessory imaginable (No, no Weiand blower I'm afraid) and is bone stock. I am currently building my first car (A 1973 240z) on a budget. Yesterday, I pulled everything off of the motor that I do not intend to use (freeing up some WHP no doubt!) -The smog pump and smog equipment -A/C Compressor -Power Steering pump -Stock cooling fan (going electric) Note: I believe this is the same engine that was used for CHP's baseline 350 budget build here: http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/463... Stock Dyno'd at 239 Horses if I remember correctly. Stock config for the motor is as follows: -Q-Jet 4 barrel carb -GM dual plane intake manifold -993 Casting Heads (Supposedly these flow like 883's but are a heavier casting?) -Stock "RV" flat tappet cam -Cast iron manifolds (Ugh) -stock short block - about 8-1 compression: Current Build Plan - -Leave the Q-Jet carb. -Port and polish the heads and intake myself. (Never done this before, but hey, it's a learning experience!) using that SA kit. According to the CHP this is good for about 20 WHP, should be fun if nothing else! -POSSIBLY do my own 3 angle valve job depending on the cost of the dies. From what I've found, they are about $250, but as always I NEVER have a problem buying tools. I'll spend 500 bucks on tools before I spend $100 on a performance part. -Exhaust is going to consist of Summit Block Hugger headers here: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autof... Only 2.5 inch collectors but I am sure they are boatloads better than those stocker manifolds! Running 2.5 inch straight pipes for about 4 feet past that. No muffler, no cat. -Edelbrock Performer Intake (I am considering getting a Victor Jr intake as I will be using it for another project down the road) -Thin Felpro gasket to do SOMETHING about that horrid compression ratio! -The cam is the only thing I am "unsure" about. I really don't like the idea of an RV cam in a 2500 pound car. What do you fellas recommend? 2500 pound car, muncie 4 speed, 3.3~ rear end Looking for 300+ flywheel horsepower. I know going with the biggest cam possible usually isn't the best idea for street ability, but this is meant to be a FUN car, and am not concerned about loosing bottom end on a 2500 pound car. With the stock cam, I am guessing somewhere around 290-300 flywheel. What do you guys think is attainable with a mild cam? Total Cost: (Including possible tool expenditures) 300 to 700 depending on what I go with. (Getting the dies, a new cam, etc) Criticism is VERY much welcomed!

I wouldn't call it a predecessor, just a higher compression version of the same engine. The only difference between the two is that the LQ4 has dished pistons and not as strong rods.

I'm not sure, but I believe that was me as it sounds like me. I honestly think the best bang for the buck engine in the world right now in terms of performance, reliability, upgrade ability, and gas mileage is the LQ4/LQ9. 1. They are CHEAP. LKQ Corp sells them used for 1,100 dollars with a dyno sheet. 2. They can make 480 FWHP with nothing but a cam swap. (That's over 400 WHEEL horsepower for under 1,400 bucks, if you're reading this.) 3. 25+ highway Miles per gallon is in no way unattainable. 4. The stock short block is good to 600 horsepower. Even more with the LQ9. 5. The stock crank is good to 1000 FWHP 6. If you're making high horsepower, you don't need to buy expensive injectors, you can simply use the ones for the 8.1 liter big block. 7. They are IRON. IRON IRON IRON. (Sorry, I hate Aluminum blocks.) 8. The stock head casting 319's are GREAT and give you a lot of options. Going NA? Find a guy running a boosted LS1 and he'll trade you in a heartbeat for his heads and maybe a little cash. Putting you at 10.8 (If I remember correctly.) Gonig boosted? Stock heads are just fine! (If you're going to boost, I would stay with the LQ4...) So why did I duck out of the third gen? Well for a few reasons. 1. The T-56 transmission. Don't get me wrong, they are great transmissions, but they are EXPENSIVE. If you knab a working used one up for under 1,200 bucks I'll be impressed. 2. I don't like EFI. Hence the reason for the carb conversion. The problem? The conversion was going to cost 600 by itself. 3. I had a great offer on the existing setup I had bought. 2.3 times what I had payed for it!!! Damn right I sold it! 4. It was too hard to resist that 350/Muncie my neighbor had across the street for 1,100 bucks. 30,000 miles, tons of new parts. 5. And a few minor reasons I won't get into. Bottom line, I am too poor for a third gen swap. But if I had only a little more money, it's how I would go.

Yeah, I'll agree with that. It's pretty much the ugliest thing you could have sit atop your engine. Plus I don't know if it will fit under the Z hood. Let us know if it does!

A good third gen tip is that the truck intake is actually very performance oriented. Especially if you're planning to boost. I wouldn't put the money on an LS6 intake personally when you have the truck intake, I'd put the money elsewhere - heads, cam, etc.

I would not consider myself an afficianado on the S30 unibody, but I would consider that a fairly important component of the front clip. Shouldn't be too hard to repair. Just grab a piece of 14-16 gauge sheet metal, make two bends and cut it to fit. Weld it up.

Sounds about right. Good luck on the swap.

If you don't mind me asking, how much is this swap running you as an estimate? I couldn't see me getting mine done with the LQ4 for less than 5,000 or so. Which was out of my budget range.

lol I stopped reading when I read that you were multiplying things by atmospheric pressure to figure out boost. A turbo putting out 1 lb of boost is effectively upping atmospheric pressure by 1 lb, not going "2 x 14.7" more like "1 + 14.7"

Well, I just got my book in the mail TODAY and it's the 7th edition, so I would say yes.

Judging by what he said in his post, I would say EFI and T-56 Looking great so far. Would definitely be the way I would go if I had the money.

Fair enough, I apologize.

produces 750 horsepower (560 kW) and 450 lb-ft of torque Meh. Horsepower is pretty and quotable.. But torque is what gets those two rubber disks a foot into the air on your 1.26 60' foot lauch.

Holy ♥♥♥♥! Pull my previous post! Haha! I wasn't aware that this had gotten around the internet this quickly. The poster I was referring to on the Mustang forums was... YOU! Nice find man!

Wrong. The 85mm throttle bodies on the trucks are ELECTRONIC, not cable, which are the 80mm ones. Which is what you have. 6 months ago I was going down the same route as you, was going to drop in an LQ4 and T-56. I went for it because LQ4's are cheap, and make amazing power for very little money. They also offer good gas mileage. But I got out after I realized that all the extras were going to take a toll because I was going with a Gen 3 motor. A T-56 is hard to find for less than a thousand bucks, and the conversion to a carb'd 3rd gen is going to be at least another 600 bucks. Hard to do when your neighbor is selling a intake-to-pan 350 and a muncie 4 speed ready to go for a 1,000 bucks...

A good point. 600 ft pounds x 3.0 first gear x 4.11 rear would net you just shy of 7400 foot pounds of torque! Ofcourse, good luck hooking up 600 ft pounds with a final drive ratio of 12.33 That is a lot of power for the earth to push back on. It is a commonly known fact that the earth is rotated with the torque of just two Chevy big blocks.

It's been done before on mustangforums.com And you STOLE those heads for 75 dollars. While I commend you for what you're trying to do, seriously, just sell the heads for a wad of cash and put it towards some SBF heads. Unless ofcourse you're going for that "Are you serious?" factor.

Setup an engine and transmission on a dyno, rev it to 6k and drop the clutch. Setup an engine in a 4000 pound Chevelle with drag radials, and 4 link, load it up to 6k and drop the clutch. Watch all the parts fly all over the place. People need to keep reverse forces in mind. A motor can only push as hard as what is being pushes against it. It is the same idea as why a car moves when the tire pushes against the earth, it is because the earth is pushing back. If the motor puts out 600 foot pounds of torque, the drivetrain is only going to be stressed with 600 foot pounds of torque if there is enough grip to push it back. Increasing the weight of the car is one way of many to increase the "blowback force". Getting a better drag suspension is another. Wider, stickier tires is again another. The reason a 600 foot pound motor in a go-kart does not require as strong of a drive train is because the pavement cannot push back on the drive train with 600 foot pounds of torque.

Miles? Wear and tear? Can you test it before you buy it? I would just go to LKQ corp and buy a low mile LQ4 and then pickup a built t-56 for a thousand less personally.... Damn the 100 pounds you're going to gain.

In my (limited) experience, a PROPERLY TUNED nitrous setup on a stock small block chevy will take at least a 150 shot all day every day. I consider 200 to be the beginning of the gray area. If you've all ready got good heads, mild cam, intake, and exhaust, I would just tune it with a 150 and leave it at that, personally. Of course, there will always be that one guy who doesn't want more. Than again, I never really believed in nitrous. I always though you should spend that 500 bucks and get a better head, or a better cam. A stock shortblock shouldn't be pushed farther than 500 horsepower anyways. I would rather have 25 or 50 permanent horsepower than 150-250 substitutionary horsepower. I may lose to the guy running the 350 horse motor + 150 shot of nitrous, but I am willing to bet my 400 permanent horsepower is more fun, and less expensive in the long run. But, this is getting into subjective conversation now, and away from facts. =) Nitrous isn't for everybody, and I am one of those people. *Edit* One more thing. I have always gone by my own personal formula for nitrous. This is not tested, nor am I saying you should do it, but everyone I tell this to agrees it "sounds about right." And that is, 30-35 shot of nitrous for ever 1 liter of motor will put you right at the beginning of the gray area. If you have a B18C5 in your Honda Integra, that is a 54-63 shot. (Most honda guys run a 50 shot because they consider the 75 too dangerous, this would seem to fit here.) If you have a 5.7 liter sbc, a 171-199 shot. Right between the a commonly acceptable 150, and the more risky 200 shot. A mustang 5.0, would be a 150-175 shot. This seems to tie into what I read up on with the mustang forums. A Mitsubishi 4G63 2.0 liter motor = 60-70 (Most guys seem to run a 75 shot, but these motors are just amazing, taking 400+ horsepower stock all day long.) 427 big block = 210-245 shot You get the idea. It's just as grumpy said. Some motors just happen to be made with more acceptable clearances for nitrous and can take those 300 shots. But anything above 150 and you're just rolling dice in my opinion.