Ferd/289 Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 I thought I would ask the 'bow ties' this question also: My SBF/289 engine has been sitting for quite awhile. I noticed that several (not all) of the push rods ends are loose versus the rockers, so i guess that some of the valve lifters have probably drianed down. How long does it take for a typical valve lifter to drain down in an engine that sits. Also, when I ultimately restart the engine, do I need to spin the oil pump? and will that pump up the valve lifters with oil? Ferd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 if the hydrolic lifters are adjusted correctly the lifters will pump up within a few seconds once the oil pressure and flow returns, how long they take to drain while the engine sits varies with the type of oil filter and lifter designs and the spring pressures, If everythings correctly adjusted the correct preload will return in under 60 seconds once the engine starts, and theres usually no need to pre-pressureize the oil gallerys BTW adding a QT of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL to the CLEAN oil in the sump tends to keep the lifters cleaner and quieter oil filters that don,t have an anti-drainback valve tend to take slightly longer, and should be avoided, oil viscosity should be sellected to maintain a 15-25 psi pressure at hot idle, thicker viscosites tend to slow oil flow to the lifters & bearings and increase wear, and while they raise idle pressure readings , thats usually with no increase in luberacation, thinner oils show lower pressure readings and in SOME cases don,t lube as well in high temps, but modern synthetics can be thinner and still work very well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest da-man (is not!) Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 I've had motors (old buicks and new mazda / ford) that had lifters that would leak down very quickly (a matter of hours). As a matter of fact, I replaced all of the lifters in my wife's Probe once, 'cuz I hated it, and the new ones did the same thing. As long as they pump back up very quickly, I would not worry about it. You should not have to spin the pump before firing it up, unless it is a brand new motor. I'm also a big beleiver in the old Marvel Mystery Oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferd/289 Posted January 31, 2008 Author Share Posted January 31, 2008 I have used marvel mystery oil for years in various small machines ie air compressors, sewing machinges,etc. but never in auto engine. Does anyone know what MMO is? Just curious, a mystery!. I always thought it was a light machine oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 ITS JUST a high quality, HIGH DETERGENT MACHINE OIL, BUT its great for lubracating and cleaning engine parts, it dissolves crud and keeps things from binding/galling, and once its been flowing over hot parts it forms a film that slows rust forming a bit also I add a pint to my oil in the cars pan and it helps a bit on keeping the engine running crud free, no, myrical, but a decent product that does its intended job well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 Grumpy, which anti-drain back oil filters do you use in your cars? Are there any you consider to be the best? Just curious. Great tip about the MMO, by the way. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 read thru this http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=67979 http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81691&highlight=cooler I use mostly WIX , MOBILE 1 and PUREONE ,filters I personally use this rule,the basic rule is DON,T use FRAM, simply because Ive seen more internally ripped filters that were FRAM than any others,KEEP EXCELLENT RECORDS,USE GOOD QUALITY OIL, and change your oil filter at each 3500 miles, you can change your oil at 3500 miles with mineral base oils or at 7000 miles with the better synthetics but change your oil filter at each 3500 miles, if your serious about CLEAN OIL. remember CLEAN oil under pressure maintains the film that protects your bearings and transfers the heat off the bearing surfaces. keep in mind youll need to check trans fluid and oil levels EVERY TIME you fill the gas tank and your car should have a trans fluid temp gauge and an oil temp and pressure gauges btw, add a few magnets to the oil pan and drain back area in your engine, the trap and hold metalic dust that comes from wear and increase engine life span by preventing that crap embedding in the bearings http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetai...d=D66SH&cat=13 http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D66SH these are even more tollerant of temp swings and retain strength at even higher engine oil temps plus they are smaller and easier to use The SH material in the D66SH magnets, means that the magnets can be heated to 300° F without any loss of magnetic strength, unlike standard neodymium magnets that begin to lose strength at 175° F. Suitable for many high temperature applications. and having a BAFFLED 7-9 qt oil pan and a windage screen, and a decent remote trans fluid cooler with an electric fan helps a good deal BTW stuff to read http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85963&highlight=magnets'>http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85963&highlight=magnets http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85963 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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