Guest Anonymous Posted March 29, 2000 Share Posted March 29, 2000 Hey Guys, Ok...I sent this to John in another post, but I thought I would list these part numbers in it's own topic for anyone that my need them. These are the part numbers for the 7/8" clutch master cylinder and hydralic hose that will connect right to the stock Camaro/Trans Am slave cylinders with no modifications. The only thing that has to be done to use this setup, is to knock out the top (master cylinder) mounting stud and drill another hole about 1/4" higher than the (stock) top hole. This isn't hard to do...just set the master cylinder up there, mark the new hole, and drill it. Actually, you will knock both mounting studs out, because the new master cylinder has it's own mounting studs included. But the main thing is there are NO modifications to the slave cylinder, NO fittings or adaptors to track down, and NO hose to be special made. Here are the part numbers... ---Master Cylinder Part Numbers--- BrakeWare - 12117 Bendix - 12117 Wagner - F110710 Raybestos - CMA39580 ---Hydralic Hose Part Number--- Ford Motor Company - E3TZ7A512A I'm not sure about the slave cylinders used with the T56 6-speed, but those of you with the T56 might want to look at one of these master cylinders next time you go to the local parts store to see if they will work for you also. The master cylinder that I listed above uses the "Non-Threaded" hose connection exactly like the slave cylinders used on mid-late '80s Camaros and Trans Ams. The hose that I listed above is long enough to connect the master and slave cylinders. The stock Camaro/Trans Am hose is not long enough. Hope this help some of you guys out. Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted March 30, 2000 Share Posted March 30, 2000 As soon as I see Lee's setup I'll let you know if it works for the T56. I'm very interested in this for my T56 setup, since I haven't got to this stage yet. Lee we need to get together soon so I can check this out, and talk cars!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted March 30, 2000 Share Posted March 30, 2000 That sounds like some extra work to mount the Mastercylinder. If you are plumbing for a T56, you should consider using the Tilton 7/8th bore unit. It only cost $60 and works great. Have Summit or any other speed shop make you the 3AN line I mentioned in my tech article and use the modification I recommend on the slave cylinder and your troubles are over. There are a few steps Lee did for his appliucation that you can cut out in the T56/Chevy install..... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 30, 2000 Share Posted March 30, 2000 Mikelly, Mounting the Master Cylinder really wasn't hard at all...Also the master cylinder that I used doesn't have to be tapped to accept the Datsun clevis...it bolted right to the clutch pedal, so that saves work too. By looking at your pictures on the "Tech" page, the slave cylinder looks almost exactly like the earlier model Camaro slave cylinders...except that the earlier model slave cylinders had a bleeder screw. I talked to Mikekz about his slave cylinder and he informed me that the T56 slave cylinder mounts "reverse" of the way the earlier models do...but "IF" the bolt patterns are the same "AND" the lenght/dimensions are the same, then wouldn't it be possible to use the earlier model slave cylinder to allow bleeding? But even if you can't use the earlier model slave cylinder, the hose connections are the same so the parts that I listed should work for the T56. I'm not trying to step on your toes here anything like that Mike and I don't want to piss anyone off...you guys have helped me out ALOT and you all have been great but I'm just trying to make life easier for you guys if I can...but as far as eliminating steps and such, maybe the way I explained my setup made it sound more difficult than it really was. So to explain it in the easiest form, this is exactly what I had to do... 1. Hit both master cylinder mounting studs with a hammer once or twice and they fall right out of the firewall. 2. Set the new master cylinder in place, mark the spot for the new top hole and drill it out. And that's it! Using the parts that I listed in my previous post, everything else bolts up like it was stock. No tapping, adapting, or other fabrication has to be done at all. Maybe I'm wrong, but wouldn't it be easier to drill one hole than to have to drill and tap the slave cylinder, track down the correct fittings, and get a hose special made? But the biggest advantage in my opinion is the fact that the parts for the setup that I used are easily accessable and replacable...if anything fails, you could have the parts and repair it in a day. Just my thoughts...but that's usually how I get in trouble! Mike, if you'd like, I will get some pictures for you so you can see exactly how my setup looks??? I'm going to meet with Mikekz next week to let him take a look at it. Let me know what you think, ok? Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted March 30, 2000 Share Posted March 30, 2000 Sounds easy to me! I hope it all works! I'll see you next week Lee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted March 30, 2000 Share Posted March 30, 2000 I'm not sure it will work, but give it a try. The other issue is the fact that the T56 clutch setup is a "Reverse Pull" set up. You'll have to just give it a try. After reading Lee's last note, it might be easier to do than what I did, but I'm not sure. Lee, send me some pics. Tapping the clutch pedal rod was no big deal, but I suppose knocking out the studs that mount on the fire wall and drilling new holes wouldn't be a big deal either.... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 5, 2000 Share Posted April 5, 2000 Mikelly, I've got a question for you about what you said in the earlier post ...you said that the T56 uses the "reverse pull" setup. So I was wondering, did you mean that the slave was mounted reverse from earlier models, but still "pushes", right? If so, then the ealier model slave should work great and will be bleedable, because the dimentions and bolt pattern are identical. I met with Mikekz and we compared the slave cylinders from the T5 and T56...and they were exactly the same, except that the T5 cylinder has a bleeder screw and the hose comes in on the top instead of the end. So I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work...looks to me like a straight forward setup. I will send you some pics of mine soon so you can check it out. I gave Mikekz my extra slave cylinder, so he is going to give it a try. Let me know what you think. See ya... Lee [This message has been edited by JuJu (edited April 05, 2000).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted April 5, 2000 Share Posted April 5, 2000 I called a GM tech guy I met during my trans fiasco and he confirmed that the only diference in the two units is the bleeder screw, the routing of the line and something you overlooked...Volume... the bore size is supposedly different. Check it with a micrometer to doublecheck what he told me... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 6, 2000 Share Posted April 6, 2000 Mikelly, Hmmm...that could be a problem. I wonder how much difference there is in volume? I thought they would have been the same since the diameter of the cases are the same...I guess that it'll have to be tried out on a T56 before we will know for sure. Thanks for the input. See ya... Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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