MYRON Posted April 1, 2000 Share Posted April 1, 2000 OK HERE IT IS.... The first th350 in my car got ruined by a flood....= 400.00 the second 700r4 got ruined by me "home simpson" not setting the tv cable/linkage and the lock up properly.....450.00 the third th350 didnt get the converter seated properly =350.00 for the tranny and converter.... now the rebuild for the th350 and setting it up to hold 700hp is costing me 500.00!!! I sure hope this comes to an end soon or i will be sleeping in the car under a bridge or something!!! @#^#%^&*$^(& HOMER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted April 1, 2000 Share Posted April 1, 2000 This is it Myron. You've paid your dues, so the next ones got to work! Looking for you in the I'm tellin ya board soon. Good luck! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 1, 2000 Share Posted April 1, 2000 Hey Myron, do you know exactly what ya did wrong to the 700, and do you now know how to set it up right? I dont want to do the same thing. I think I am going with a 700 out of a late model camero or firebird from high performance salvage in san antonio, 300 for a good pull out, and he said he would show me how to wire the convertor lock up to the brake light switch. I think it should hold up to 300 hp or so without any trouble. I am going more for a show and go car than a race model. YOU KNOW AIR CONDITIONER AND THE WHOLE MESS. ------------------ 74 260, early 350,K.B.pistons,edelbrock manifold,carb,and cam,202 cast iron heads.Let the transformation begin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYRON Posted April 1, 2000 Author Share Posted April 1, 2000 To play it safe i would buy the the aftermarket wiring kit out of summit or jegs that is for the installation of the 700 in cars that were not origanally equiped with one... also make sure that you buy the correct throttle/tv cable bracket that sets the geometry correct if using a holley carb. Also adjust the tv cable from loose and gradually snug it up in very small incriments... Maybe even take it to a tranny shop and have them adjust it and make sure the lockup switch is functioning... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted April 1, 2000 Share Posted April 1, 2000 Takman, I'm a little AR about that TV cable. Look for a publication on correct geometry for the set up. It has to be placed properly on the carb. 1 1/2 inches between throttle mounting stud center and TV stud center. 1 3/16 from shaft centerline to TV stud centerline. aprox 4 3/4 from mount braket face to tv stud center @ idle. Shoot for 1 1/8 inch cable extension from idle to full throttle. Prestige performance 909-629-6447, or maybe Darrel young, or Carl Rossler trans can give you a visual. If they can't I can email you the specs. Adjust the cable: push in the reset tab (next to the mounting bracket, hold it in (its HARD to push) and pull the cable from behind until stops against the fitting. Release the reset tab. Open your throttle WIDE OPEN. The cable will ratchet into the correct position. (If it didn't your old cable is probably stretched. Put in a new one the right length before it goes in. You'll never thread it back into the tranny when its in a Z.) DON'T mess with the setting. It will be tight at WOT. This insures a proper fluid pressure in relation to your shifts. Improper settings can really shorten the longivity. Remember the tv cable isn't just a downshift cable. I've been running these trannys since 1987. Get it right and it you'll love it. John [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited April 01, 2000).] [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited April 01, 2000).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted April 1, 2000 Share Posted April 1, 2000 Oh yeah, don't defeat the lock up. I think its crucial to the lubrication circut in 4th. Toy shop transmissions has a kit for this w/ instructions. Locks up when you shift to 4th. 909-620-5849. The brake switch kit disingages lock up when you brake. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 2, 2000 Share Posted April 2, 2000 Myron I currently have a Turbo 350 in my 82 Zcar. I want to upgrade to a 700R4. It appears you have made the swap before, what is involved? IE: cross members, ect. Thanks in advance. BTW, my car came from Conroe Thanks in advance for your reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 2, 2000 Share Posted April 2, 2000 Myron, I hope the next one hangs in there for you! But you know?, it could just be a sign that your Z really should have a "Stick". Or maybe it's your Z that's actually trying to tell you that...it seems that they all have thier own personalities, ya know? Just hang in there man...you'll get it going. See ya... Lee ------------------ 260Z, 327, T5, JCR California Z http://members.tripod.com/~SnowSurfer/ripnshred.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 2, 2000 Share Posted April 2, 2000 I am using an edelbrock carb, but if I understand ,reguardless of how I mount the tv cable, I need 1 1/8 " of pull from just barely snug to full throttle? If that is all I need to make sure of , then I can handle that. And I do understand about the brk.light switch being used to disengage the lock-up. thanks guys,,, Tony ------------------ 74 260, early 350,K.B.pistons,edelbrock manifold,carb,and cam,202 cast iron heads.Let the transformation begin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted April 2, 2000 Share Posted April 2, 2000 Tony: If you follow the cable adjustment like I stated, you can't go wrong. It is made to be self adjusting once it is retracted. WOT sets it into the correct place. You won't need to guess on the initial tension.I did a lot of research on these trannys when I got interested in them, set up, preferable years etc. If nothing else, and once the trans and cable are in the car, go to a reputable trans shop and have them adjust the cable. They'll do it just like I described. Takes 5 seconds to get it right. Looking through my old mags. CarCraft July 1995 pg. 94 has a picture of the geometry and adjustment description. Also, if running top end at WOT (4th)is important to you, I think the later z28 trans were capable of this. Otherwise you can upgrade to the Vette/z28 internals and do the same. If your happy with 3 gears to romp with and a overdrive for crusing the others will work just fine. Good luck! John John [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited April 02, 2000).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 2, 2000 Share Posted April 2, 2000 Thanks John, You hit it exactly, I will be fine with 3 gears to romp, I should be running plenty fast by then for what I want. And the cruise in 4th will do just fine. again thanks... Tony ------------------ 74 260, early 350,K.B.pistons,edelbrock manifold,carb,and cam,202 cast iron heads.Let the transformation begin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYRON Posted April 3, 2000 Author Share Posted April 3, 2000 KAMANARI, The mounting holes on the tailshaft of the 700r4 are about 1.5 inches further back than the ones on the th350 I just got a steel plate that was about 3"x3" and drilled the new holes out. Myron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Posted April 6, 2000 Share Posted April 6, 2000 About the 700r, I have a built one in my 90 Blazer with over 80k on it. 6000lbs and it will still bark 2nd on a cold morning. If you get a late model Trans with a 10 vane front pump (89 and newer) and put a Trans Go kit in it, adjust it right it will live a long time. Another problem area you might not know about is the TV boost valve it can stick and cause slow shifting, low fluid pressure and destroy the Trans quick. When the one in my Blazer stuck it toasted third in about 100 miles. Now this Trans had 150k hard miles on it but it shows how fast it can kill one. The Trans Go kit solves this problem and many others with the stock 700r. If you buy a Trans Go kit shop around prices very allot, (it is about 110$ wholesale). Good luck. Ps. When you install the Kit you can make the trans. fully manual if you choose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYRON Posted April 7, 2000 Author Share Posted April 7, 2000 Well it is all back together and driving now! I am having a little trouble warming up to the stall converter. The car doesnt feel as fast as it was with the 700r4. The 700 would shift harder and just felt like the car was "pulling" better..... As it sits now when i am driving in any gear and deck it, it jumps to 4000 rpm. Maybe it is just me and i will just have to get used to the stall, i have never owned one so it is all new to me.... what do you guys think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYRON Posted April 7, 2000 Author Share Posted April 7, 2000 Thanks, I am on my way to do so tonight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted April 8, 2000 Share Posted April 8, 2000 Alright Myron!!, The high stall converters are pretty wierd. I used to have a 4000+ converter. At anything but 1/4 mile trips it seemed like a big slush box. Once you are used to the feel, they sound pretty racey. People who know drag cars will know you're serious. Nailed to the floor and they pull like a freight train. I have sympathy for your tires! That 700 1st is hard to beat, but maybe it is too low for a high powered lightweight like yours. Now, go kick some A$$!! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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