borini63 Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 Fuel injectors relay...chech that out...it is located on the front of the battrey hidden with a black plastic small panel with one screw to take it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUZN Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 Aww poor Z. She's telling you something is wrong with her.. Just follow her belches and moans. Make sure AFM (Air Flow Meter) is moving freely, Open TB (Throttle Body), Remove Intake to Turbo and make sure The turbo is not Seized (spray cleaner lie carb clean in there then vacuum Excess out givve the Compressor side by wastegate a couple taps (lightly) with a hammer and try with your finger to move the Turbine, remove ECU connectors and check for loose connector pins, clean battery Posts, Check the Fusable Links (little black box beside Battery), Check Relays in engine bay, check to hear if you hear Fuel pump working when you turn ignition to ON position (not RUN), Timing should be fine if never touched, HIT THE DASH HARD liek the Mellenium Falcon (Worked for Han Solo and my old Pulsar =-) ), ummmm Replace Fuel Filter for sure, if your able to remove injector Rail and soak in cleaner , hmmmm Mainly yeah Check major connections and then Clean her out FLush oil and give her a Go that should do her. Even my old 280zx Ran after being parked for 2 years on stail Gas not well but good enough to move her around hehe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost78 Posted August 19, 2009 Author Share Posted August 19, 2009 Alright people, I will give it another try. I did read the manual book but I just keep hiting dead ends. I will give it another try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost78 Posted August 19, 2009 Author Share Posted August 19, 2009 I drop the tank empty it and clean it and them refueled it again. Still have the same problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rolling Parts Posted August 19, 2009 Share Posted August 19, 2009 Alright people, I will give it another try. I did read the manual book but I just keep hiting dead ends. I will give it another try. My personal suggestion is that any 30 year old car that has set and not run in 14 years and sold for $200 would logically require a rebuild (or at least a serious investment in time by a knowledgeable repair person) to get it drivable. Yes, drop the gas tank and inspect. Replace all hoses when re-installing. Test the fuel pump while you're back there. Moving forward to the engine bay, replace the fuel filter and associated hoses and install a $20 fuel pressure gauge after the filter (http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/41012/10002/-1 ) The gauge will tell you at a glance the real status of the fuel system. Get a $16 volt meter and a $4 can of spray electrical contact cleaner. Start cleaning ALL electrical connections (AFM, dizzy and Temp probes). You can "borrow" a compression tester at AutoZone for free and that will tell you if you need to pull the head. Download the REAL service manual at: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html and there ARE NO DEAD ENDS when you follow the test flowcharts. Turn to page EF-33 and start diagnosing at the ECU main connector. It's invaluable and it's free. Basically you have a serious electro-mechanical puzzle but there is no "one thing" you can do and the car will suddenly be fixed. Removing decades of abuse will be time consuming... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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