RUZN

So Im building a couple Z31's. As posted previously I have been wanting to make one engine Twin Turbo VG30ETT and the other just a Gas saving semi fun car lol. So I have picked up a 1984 Arizona Z and recently got a FREE yes FREE 1987 N/A with all leather interior and Black dash and stuff hehe. Anyway in staring to Mod a customers vehicle a friend and I have notice the Z31 intake fits backwards on the plenum and still clears all obsticles. only real close part is the timing cover but it actually clears it still by a couple mills.. Anyway I will post pics as they are on my laptop I realized but we basically chopped off the side intake welded that hole shut and then cut a Square out of the Backside of the intake (which is now the front) and mounted a 240sx Bigger throttle body on that. Couple kewl things we noticed. More room to access lower parts and injectors. the Plenum now dosent hang so close to the exhaust near firewall infact there is over 60% less Aluminum to gather heat from the exhaust thus making your charge air so much cooler. Also! makes it nice for turbo aplications and NA as you free up tons of room all around. Ill post pics with Both the Pathfinder (ported) intake and stock (Backwardzzz) Z31 intake Our new creations name is: Mr. Z & Mr. 2 OEM automotive Engineering. We will be accepting cores and converting them to the new design Pending our finished product and Dyno numbers and flow charts. We hope the gains will be good overall so that all of you all can have a semi stock looking plenum without paying huge bucks for ones that might not fit perfect or have to be redrilled ect. ect. Stock fits absolutely perfect backwards hehe.. Weird hey

Did you set the diff up yourself? It sounds like you have to much Backlash from your pinion to crown gear are you sure you set correct backlash? As the gears wind up with torque they tend to seperate a few thousands of a inch. To me if its above 5mph that means the Pinion is contacting to closely or to far away. Metal shavings are generally not good even after 300miles.. Like micro bits ok as any loose material from casting will rub away. Do the bears have to much preload? Did you do a Tooth pattern check or just put it in. You should buy a dial indicator mount it and check backlash as well as tooth pattern wear.. It should be more towards Toe end of the teeth but directly in the middle. (Toe end means closer to center of crown gear, Heel mean closer to Back of Crown gear) The Differential is the center Casing Crown gear is the big gear Pinion gears are the smaller Straight cut teeth within the Differential casing Side gears are obviously on the side contacting your axles and the driveshaft is connected to the main Pinion Gear obviously Differential Housing is the outer housing that contains the Differential. Anyway I would check your tooth contact pattern make sure its in middle but slightly down towards the Toe (not to far) then adjust Backlash as needed with proper shims. Cause I think it sounds like your teeth as they load up are to high on the heel or to low on the toe or even perhaps the crown is to far right or left.. ya know? hehe lots of metals flakes usually means its to tight maybe not enough backlash or to loose to much backlash

Cant you Run Methylhydrate or something cause its 99.9% alcohol, and you'll pass? I know I ran my 240sx on 4L Methylhydrate and 20L Gas and pass smog in Vancouver B.C. Canada Oh and wouldnt replacing your muffler and possibly your whole exhaust pipe make you have a cleaner burn cause you wouldnt have all that old crap in the muffler shooting out

Yeah I think I rewired, fiddle and messed with everythign on my car before I figured out it was a Intermittant fault with my MAF sensor on my 280zxt. (ECU swapped to 300zxt and MAF).. So dont feel to dumb! haha although I have no more smog stuff LOL Go Alberta Pollution! I do try to run 94 Octane only though and Syth oil to keep down those carbons!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=st8BwsMHLj8 Wow amazing amazingly fast Z lol.. is that a turbo or a small jet engine LOL

So other than virtually no options.. Dose it still Rust or is that not an Option..... =-) kekekeke

OK first I`ll tell you whats left on mine. Nothing... LOL ok no seriously... I have Vacuum for Boost Sensor Vacuum for my Auto tranny and Vacuum for Fuel Pressure regulator (FPR) thats it. Everythign else I took off Except that Air flow (when cold) thingy I kept incase car would run weird but I capped it hosing here frig Ill take some pics LOL one sec... *runs outside* everything I got brass caps and closed off all other vacuums except ones shown.. Brake booster Boost FPR Transmission (auto)

Yes I swapped to Z31T ECU and MAF and 240sx TB and and and LOL all for about $600 or so I did a complete swap and upgraded some stuff like Intake and Exhaust ports ( bought a Boring bit for $40 and matched intake and exhaust inlets to Gasket and then ported the mouth of the Plenum to 60+mm as well.. Im just saying about the distibutor. I used the Shaft the bearing and all internals including the Rotor which I trimmed a bit and put it all inside the 280zxt distributor housing. So Newer bearing, newer sensor, newer rotor ect ect etc... The VG30E rotor can be trimmed on the bottom of the plastis so it dosent RUB the Dust cove rmetal thingy. and then I just got longer threaded bolts with nuts and was able to mount the newer plastic Sensor inside... I have now NO accel Loss no decel loss and only once in a while a little pop out the exhaust LOL.. but over all it starts cleaner, runs WAY better and has crazy good power I just run out of Gears in this damn 3 Speed Auto LOL but man dose it friggin haul butt now that the MAF is working! jeeezuz... Even the Maseratti guy beside me thought it had some wicked sound and some great accel! hehe.. LOVE MY WARPIG!!!Z!!

Yeah im a 2nd Year here in Calgary so still learning about this stuff!! LOL.. Thing is it was intermittant and really only happened under Load so its kinda hard to Test it with a Ohm or volt meter while the car is trying to tear away from the blocks LOL... It read ok when testing so I guess it must have some faulty wiring internally that gets bumpped around or what not! All I know is its freaking Awesome now! And $20 bucks 94octane atually gets me like 200km instead of 100km LOL So im HAPPY! plus replacing old coil and stuff really made a huge difference Its like a friggin new car. FUN FUN FUN

The problem with the loudness originates from your ROUND exhaust!.. Switch to Magnaflow Oval and Notice the Camaro type rumble as opposed to the Trumpet type Howl the round exhaust makes. mines great overall being Oval and is quieter when punching it but a bit louder at Idle.. Lets you know your still running LOL..

I took my Z31 VG30E distributor apart and used the shaft/bearing/ and sensor parts (black plastic piece inside) and ROtor in my S130T distributor housing. And it works like a dream. SO if anyones having distributor problems you can order internals for a Z31 or VG30E motor. even works by using 1997 Pathfinder internals.

Oh you can use Z31 or VG30E distributor inernals as I have now found out. So instead of that old clear selant hockey puck thing with resistors and diodes on it. You can use the Nice black plastic clean looking doohicky inside your S130T distributor housing.

IT WAS THE FREAKING MAF!!!!!! gawd... hours and hours of testing probing and I thought readings were good from MAF so must have been intermittant cause it only happened every so often GRRRRR.. Now she HAULS!!!!

I have a 1981.5 Turbo ECU after I did my 300zxt ECU swap.. I would recommend just doing the swap to 300zxt ECU its soooooo much better!

EGR AAC all those vacuum thingies under the old AFM Chachoal cannister everything! all I have is: Boost vacuum FPR vacuum a small hose to 240sx TB from the back of the MAF to bleed in juuust a touch of air into throttle plate and Adjusted Idle screw on 240sx TB a crack open for 850rpm idle. mines stripped and now runs GREAT!

Yeah figured it out =-) Also figured out why I was bogging out and fumbling so much! MAF!!!! changed to my 300zx one and it friggin hauls!!! So all along it was a Smaller diameter inside MAF than the 3" 300zx one. But also could be a faulty maf!.... anyway im off to do some burnouts!

I have swapped to MAF from a VG30E engine Maxima and am now trying to use Z31 coil I run a l28ET on a 300zxt ECU (the conversion)

I can't seem to find it searching here. I found people who have done it but no way on completing the process Im gonna go outside and see if I can get it done. I have my Z31 outside that im swapping a KADE motor into later this winter so I want to try and figure out my Rich running on my L28ET (with Z31T ECU swap) so It seems ignition related so I figure if I try that next its cheap cause I have one and it will determine if that is the issue. Bad transistor or whatever.... sooo If anyone can tell me which wires to switch or to ground let me know TY

ok heres my build. Thing is... I have it down to a Coil/Distribution of Spark problem. or if the Cylinder Head temp sensor if it would cause Bogging at stoplight Acceleration or half throttle area (maybe most engine vibration) its very strange because... I have eliminated all AAC/EGR ect ect my intake is as follows. Filter on end of MAF ---> Turbo ---> intercooler (just over the weekend) ---> Throttle Body (240sx) ---> intake plenum ----> combustion chamber ----> Exhaust (O2)...... So what are your thoguhts.. ECU (swapped to 300zxt 1987) MAF (maxima 1992) TB (240sx 60mm) Stock 280zxt injection Stock sensors TPS 1990 Maxima Converted to Cable throttle Ported head intake to 32.55mm (from I think stock was 28.5mm) so to *gasket match* 1987 300zxt turbo mated to 280ZXT wastegate and downpipe 280zxt Wastegate actuator (1981.5 stock) Swapped in and out MFPR and Stock FPR no change tried different fuel ranging PSI from 32psi to 50Psi Switched out distrubutor internals with 300zx and same symptoms Soooo this problem was happening before my swap to ECU Z31T so I was hoping the change would cure it with better mapping ect ect but to no avail. its almost like I have an injector stuck open but when I check plugs they are all slightly blackend with soot so its as if its misfiring on all cylinders intermitantly or just over fueling every so often... any ideas greatly appreciated.. I should test the Head temp sensor I guess.. Anyone know resistance values or I guess I can look it up on ALLDATA. after that if that is all good. then I guess im looking to buy a New Cap and or Coil assembly

Yeah I just put an entirely new 240sx throttle body on with another TPS reset ignition timing and checked all connections, Rewired anything that looked fishy, put in another O2 sensor and now am doing plugs and oil change.. then I guess its temp sensor time Cause after that i have replaced almost everything except that little round thing beside coil whats it calld again.. Stores charge or something? all I know is when its not grounded the car wont start lol. So other than the temp sensor and that thingy everythings replaced.. Even used the guts of a 300zx Distributor and inserted in my 280zxt SHell and that didnt cure it either!...

I run a 3" Pipe from the Downpipe to the rear end (no cat or resonator) and to finish it off I also have that Same looking Magnaflow 3" inlet 3" outlet and its a great tone. But I run a turbo so its prolly quieter that a N/A motor. But everyone loves the tone... I have always run Magnaflow though so I just like the sound better than a Whiney or obnoxiously loud Fart can LOL.

dude why is everyone all of a sudden getting my same issue!!! Lets all try and figure this out!! Mine dose the exact same thing. Even before my 300zxt ECU swap and still dose it to this day! Im thinking TPS (throttle position sensor) When I start in morning starts ok but boggs a bit gotta give it some gas to get her to idle.. then occasionally at start when I go to drive it boggs right out and puffs and sputters then all of a sudden VROOM takes off.. anyone else got Ideas! I guess I could find a temp sensor and replace my tps now that I have another 240sx throttle body.... I rewired everythign today soooooo still clueless...

So I went for a good rip all varieties of roads lots of hills and pushed her hard. No Failures! Good thing lol So now she gets an oil change tomorrow and Ill run this setup till schools over in 3 months! Then I will actually put time and effort into a Good build for my MASSIVE FMIC!! Intake plenum temp down 15oC !!! so not to shabby. And I noticed only about 1psi Drop in boost over all but she held hard and boosted to infinity and beyond! lol So Budget Getto Build Victorious! Oh and btw! a VG30DE motor o2 sensor works in our bungs!

For one. Because when I get back to work after schooling I have the exit tube going out the one side I want. Two When I tried to do it that way of course... It would not fit and trying to make 2 90o Bends that close to the frame was possible but would be very restricted. This way the bends are more gradual, ease of flow man. thats all. its tight in that biatch Also as I said I have a FMIC with opposite side exits that is like $500 and is friggin huge. Which I will mount when I am able to buy a bigger turbo Better injectors and such. This was mainly to be able to mount a cheap but effective intercooling system so that I dont blow my car up LOL as the intake temps were getting fairly hot. I just want to see the difference mainly and I had some time to spare and I wanted to tinker and check the systems I did before out to see if anythign was breaking, malfunctioning ect ect.. Had a mouse eat into wiring so had to get in there anyway so made a short project out of it.. Boredom, Sputtering on red lights..... thought i'd try and fix some stuff. haha Oh and yes I still have the bungee on the other side now Slownrusty LOL just for you!!! =-) (I have mount made just thought Id see if you could see it.. kinda like wheres waldo... lol

So since I have had this sputter problem before.. I am now going to pretty much cleanup all wiring... ughhhh!!! But hey at least it will look nice and clean and be a bit better to work on.! Hopefully with the different O2 Sensor installed. The intercooler installed. The wiring cleaned up Everything will run smooth! Now dose anyone know which pins to wire in the 3Pin O2 sensor to on the ECU with the 300zxT ECU swap..