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clutchmaster/slave issues with a muncie m21


fl327

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hey everybody, yes i know i have posted this before but everytime i drive the car it reminds me of how much i direly need to get some real clutch matters solved

im running a m21 four speed adn reverse will almost never engage while the motors running, i often have to turn it off go in reverse and start it up to do it, and sometimes it really sucks

what is the best unit in your opinions and what has worked for you guys best, i would really love to get some inuput from someone who runs something similar to me,

a sbc with a muncie 4spd. its not that i dont appreciate the advice from my other post , i just want to knwo exactly which units will do the best job before i get stranded again with no clutch at all....

Leonard

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Guest Frank280z

What master cyl. and slave cyl. are you using?? I have the same engine tranny setup. I'm using a Tilton 1" master to SS braided line to a stock Datsun Z slave cyl. mounted on a custom bracket. The bracket bolts to the engine above the oil filter with a 3/4" bolt. And one more into the bellhousing with another 3/4". The slave cyl. was lined up to the Lakewood fork. And last and most important for complete engagement. I removed the stopper plate under the clutch pedal. Thanks Fast Frog for that tip...Remove that and see what happens first. Try the rubber piece before you take the whole thing out. If you are using the 5/8 datsun master,that could definitely be your problem also. I would look into a larger unit. Frank

 

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Build it. Drive it. Improve it.

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quote:

Originally posted by Frank280z:

What master cyl. and slave cyl. are you using?? I have the same engine tranny setup. I'm using a Tilton 1" master to SS braided line to a stock Datsun Z slave cyl. mounted on a custom bracket. The bracket bolts to the engine above the oil filter with a 3/4" bolt. And one more into the bellhousing with another 3/4". The slave cyl. was lined up to the Lakewood fork. And last and most important for complete engagement. I removed the stopper plate under the clutch pedal. Thanks Fast Frog for that tip...Remove that and see what happens first. Try the rubber piece before you take the whole thing out. If you are using the 5/8 datsun master,that could definitely be your problem also. I would look into a larger unit. Frank

 

im using the stock 240z master and slave

which could be it, stopper under the clutch pedal?? ill check it out.

my slave is mounted in a position quite similar to yours. what other slave besides the one you used would work well. i dont want to mutilate the slave too much because ive had some real problems with clutch disengagement, ill chieck the rubber stop first. thanx a bunch

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Guest Anonymous

Being as both of you guys have the same engine/tranny combo I'm considering in my Z, what do you think of the muncie in there? What rear end ratio's are you using, and is it buzzy (rpm wise) on the freeway? My 72 240 has an auto. with 3.54 gears and because my car will see really only limited freeway use, a 4sp might be the ticket. The cost factor is important to my project and I'm really leaning toward the ole 4sp muncie, considering its really strong and cheap to buy used, it seems like a reasonable alternative. Oh yeah, one other question, as to the transmissions length, hows the shifters position in the stock hole in the floor? Any info would be appreciated. smile.gif

 

Thanks,

 

Lone

 

[This message has been edited by lonehdrider (edited November 02, 2000).]

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quote:

Originally posted by lonehdrider:

Being as both of you guys have the same engine/tranny combo I'm considering in my Z, what do you think of the muncie in there? What rear end ratio's are you using,(i use the tallest available, the 3.36's, and i still am doing 3k at 80mph,its the muncie, the gears are super low) and is it buzzy (rpm wise) on the freeway?( i dont notice the buzz so much until the freeway, but there is buzz, get a rockcrusher m22 and you will know buzz) My 72 240 has an auto. with 3.54 gears(youll rock with those gears, tall as they are, im useing 3.36 and i feel like i have 4.11's) and because my car will see really only limited freeway use, a 4sp might be the ticket. The cost factor is important to my project and I'm really leaning toward the ole 4sp muncie, considering its really strong and cheap to buy used, it seems like a reasonable alternative. Oh yeah, one other question, as to the transmissions length, hows the shifters position in the stock hole in the floor? Any info would be appreciated.
smile.gif

(my stock hole is not in use, my shifter comes out of the fusebox, aka scarab conversion, i used to be an auto too and i am in the process of making the old hole in the floor a door where i can throw away "stuff" in case of emergency.

Thanks,

 

Lone

 

[This message has been edited by lonehdrider (edited November 02, 2000).]

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quote:

Originally posted by Frank280z:

Leonard, The stock datsun slave cyl. is adequate. But I feel that you have to change out the master cyl. to a larger one. Without a doubt. It worked for me. Frank

 

Lone, the m22 is really noisy. You're right. I'm using a M21 now. I scored it for $200. Had to cut out the left side of the tunnel. Fabricate a bolt-in plate that sits out 2" more than it used to. And it does not go past the width of the seat either. I'm using the super street shifter. With a Mustang replacement stick.Wheel skins leather boot for a porsche 944. 7/16" T handle. I don't have more than 3" of travel. And I'm in fourth before you know it. In the future I will go with a fortes t5. Frank

 

thanx frank. ill try it, right now im looking at the tilton units,

hey frank, does the shifter on your car sit in the fusebox, thats where my mine is, i think its because my motor is little forward and a little high set. im always in fourth myself, third most of the time, and usually start out in normal driving in second, but dang i love the whine and power.....what is a fortes t5 and how much do they usually go for?????

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If anyone needs a 1" clutch master cylinder, I have a short AP Racing one that was only used for 20 pedal pushes until I determined I needed less diameter (I'm using a hydraulic throwout bearing). It's a pricey piece - $168 for the master cylinder without the resevoir. (I don't have a resevoir for it anymore - but they are $50.) The nice thing about the unit is that it's a bolt in (after you rethread the clevis on the pedal) and allows the WW bottle to stay in place.

 

I'll let it go for $75 plus shipping. I'll throw in a rebuilt kit I have for it also.

 

 

 

------------------

Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@home.com">pparaska@home.com -

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Guest Frank280z

Leonard, The stock datsun slave cyl. is adequate. But I feel that you have to change out the master cyl. to a larger one. Without a doubt. It worked for me. Frank

 

Lone, the m22 is really noisy. You're right. I'm using a M21 now. I scored it for $200. Had to cut out the left side of the tunnel. Fabricate a bolt-in plate that sits out 2" more than it used to. And it does not go past the width of the seat either. I'm using the super street shifter. With a Mustang replacement stick.Wheel skins leather boot for a porsche 944. 7/16" T handle. I don't have more than 3" of travel. And I'm in fourth before you know it. In the future I will go with a fortes t5. Frank

 

 

------------------

Build it. Drive it. Improve it.

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Guest Frank280z

My shifter is mounted on a plate that connects to the very end of the tail. And peaks out of the floor about 4". Really trick setup with the new stick. Im using JTRs kit. So that also helps out a bit with the location. Oh yeah, the car is a 74. Fuse panel is on the pass. kick panel. Are your speedos working?? For some reason mine isn't. Maybe I shoud try a drill on the cable b4 I change up to an Autometer. Frank

BTW thats a good deal Petes offering....

 

------------------

Build it. Drive it. Improve it.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest Dean570z

Pete:

As I am looking for the McCleod Hyd. T/O Bearing, where is this DarkHorse? and what master are you using? Finally getting around to yanking out the 700-r4. Hays also makes a Hyd. T/O bearing, anyone have info on it? Thanks!

 

W. Dean Byers 570z

Quartz Hill, Calif

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Darkhorse Performance: http://www.darkhorseperformance.com/

 

I'm using a Girling remote 3/4" diameter master cylinder and remote reservoir mounted to it with AN fittings - it's not remote this way, but above the MC. This give more throw than I'd like (from brake pedal height to the floor to get the full 0.030" clearance Mcleod recommends for a diaphram clutch) but the pedal is just a bit stiffer than any manual trans car from the factory.

 

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Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@home.com">pparaska@home.com -

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