letitsnow Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 I just got my MS1 v3 kit from diy auto tune, I started assembling it today. When I got to the power supply test I figured out I had D10 backwards, I switched it and tried again, this time D12 sizzled. It was in backwards too, it broke in half when I tried to take it out. I have to replace D12, is there should I replace D10 too? Anything else? I'll stop by radioshack tomorrow morning on the way to school, I hope they have it. Edit: I did some research, D12 is a surge protector and it's safe to test without it. I did the test and I got 5v everywhere I should have. looks like D10 is ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 its ok man. its a relatively involved procedure, and you're bound to make mistakes. The good thing is that the circuit protection is quite robust, and it's hard to damage the whole board. i think you should be proud of the fact that you're doing this yourself rather than buying the board complete. I did this for a friend and I will charge someone to do it next time, even though it took me roughly 4 hours or so, combined time. + 2 hours of modifications. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted March 17, 2008 Author Share Posted March 17, 2008 I figured I'd make some mistakes, and I'm glad it was easy to find(it's real easy to find where the smoke is coming from). I'm taking a digital electronics class right now, I found that IC's get REALLY hot when you switch the power and ground. I was kind of venting in my first post. I just hope that radio shack has D12 in stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 if they don't, digi-key.com does. or look for electronics stores in your area, there should be atleast one local place. even if it doesn't work properly later, there is a step-by-step fault-check guide on the website that tells you how to test various parts of the board in sequence. I remember being handed a board that was fried @ the processor and the power supply IC. I then replaced that (u16, i think), and then installed a number of modifications to get a VW ignition system to run on a Hyundai GC4N engine (i think that's what it was, I didn't get much detail). It ended up working and I never saw the ignition system, or the car/engine either. I just did it, got 100 bux for it, and heard it worked from the guy months later when he asked me to work on a BMW ignition system, which I didn't go through with. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted March 17, 2008 Author Share Posted March 17, 2008 Radioshack was closed this morning.....they open at 9am, I'll check on my way home. I checked digi-key.com. It's $.36 for D12 but $5 handling charge and ~$5 shipping. I think I can continue assembling it with out d12, so I could finish the rest and make sure to install d12 before I put it in the car.(which could be a while) I found the schematic for the power supply circuit. here Edit: Got D12, installed it. All is good. I got the input section done and part way through the output section when I ran out of butane for my soldering iron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted March 18, 2008 Share Posted March 18, 2008 cold, hard advice: use an electric 15 or 25Watt soldering iron. do not use a propane/butane soldering iron. those things are a mess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted March 19, 2008 Author Share Posted March 19, 2008 cold, hard advice:use an electric 15 or 25Watt soldering iron. do not use a propane/butane soldering iron. those things are a mess. I finished it last night at 2am with the butane one, I went and got some fuel. I've got a 15w electric one that I'll never use again, The cord is always in the way and it takes forever to heat up. Everything seems to work except one thing. The IGN LED(on the stim) doesn't light up, I've installed msns-e and configured it for edis. Is that LED supposed to light? I've done the following step: On the V3.0 main board: use the 'Hall sensor circuit' (step #50.a in the assembly guide) - jumper D1 and D2, jumper OPTOIN to TACHSELECT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the DB37 connector, opposite the heat sink, jumper TSEL to OPTOUT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the center. jumper JS10 to IGN (this uses the processor port for the SAW signal directly), jumper XG1 to XG2 on the bottom side of the PCB, near the 40 pin socket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSD Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 Nuts, I work at radioshack, coulda prob got you that ♥♥♥♥ free! ;[ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 I believe the IGN light only turns on with MS-II boards. Depending on how you flash it, you could have the FIDLE LED flashing. Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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