I need to know from someone who has had both a 350 and 383??

[Guest mattrp]

I am getting very serious about building my next motor. It's from a 75 El Camino, 350, hopeing its a 4-bolt becuase its a truck. I will have the heads done, and the bores done, and new bearings, and cam, and rings. But I am seriously considering the speedomotive stroker kit. How much does that extra .5 litres add, and is it punch in the seat from 0-60 or high end speed. Realize I am broke, and will do all assembly myself (proper tools of course). Which is my best choice

 

Rebuild the 350 - save some bucks

Rebuild the 350 to a 383

Do a hipo build on the 350

Trade for a crate motor

 

How much did your guys machining cost you when you did your rebuilds. My shop want 1200 to do a performance rebuild and assembly (moly rings, hipo cam, hipo springs, hipo rockers). 900 for a tock rebuild, (they are good though)

 

Matt

72 500Z

[Mikelly]

Matt,

My 350 is in my truck and is TB injected, so this may skew things a bit. It does run 9's in the 1/8th though, and thats pushing a 4000# truck, which ain't too shabby for a motor with 178,000 on it. I have a 383 stroker in the Z, and the performance of the package is awesome. However, the big thing you get from stroking the V8 is more torque, depending of course on the build and compression.

 

Here is what the "Build" up of the 383 was:

New 4 bolt block was painted, screened, all machine work on the block was standard radiousing of oil journals and deburring of the block.

Crank is a Scatt unit, nothing fancy.

Rods are LT1 units, brand new.

KB Hyper pistons, with C&A Zgap rings

all bearings were top quality, all bolts and studs were ARP.

High Vol Miloden Oil pump and and T-sump pan with windage tray and trap doors keep the oil happy.

The cam is a ISKY Hydraulic Roller unit, with matching rods and 1.5 roller rockers form Harland Sharp.

The heads are Dart Conquest. They were mild ported to get rid of casting flash, but nothing serious. Intake, a Victor Jr. was port matched to the heads. Kmotion springs with ti retainers and locks keep the valve train tight.

 

All of this came to me, shipped to my door for $3900 from Bowtie Performance in Bristol, Va.

 

Now, what I would do if I did it again is build up a nice bottom end using everything I listed for my current motor, except using a Forged 350 crank and the appropriate race prepped rods for a 350. I would then spend my money getting a set of nice aluminum heads and a roller valve train assembled. I wouldn't build up a 383 just for the sake of doing one, not that I don't like what I have, but it isn't really necessary and you can rev a 350 a little higher.

 

A good crate alternative would be the ZZ4 crate motor with an upgrade in the valve train department. I'm a big fan of letting the crate engine builders supply the motor. You can do it your self and save about $600, but two things need to be considered... Time, and the fact that a pro has assembled your engine. I could have built mine, but was addressing other areas of the car like the fuel cell, cooling, and wiring, plus rust repair. Getting a crate motor frees up your time to get the car ready for the conversion.

Plus, I'm no pro at engine assembly. I have built 8 motors in my life. Seven survived well, the one that didn't cost me the money I had saved on the previous seven.....One little mistake and BANG!!!!!!! That sounded like a rod letting go....OUCH!!!!!

 

Hope this helps...

Mike

 

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"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

[Guest mattrp]

Thanks for the comments Mike. I do indeed have my heart set on building the motor, just working on the car is fun to me. So from what you have said, and that the 350 will rev higher, I think I'm going to build the bottom of the 350 well, and spend the saved money on a better valve train. Makes sense, start with a good bottom end staying stock on the top. When I have money I'll slap some heads, solid lifters, aluminum intake, roller rockers to top the whole thing off. I'm hoping to do this spring break. I need to have this car ready to got to college next year. Don't worry, the rice boys won't know what hit them.

 

As for my luck with motors, only built my current 305 and a couple of lawnmowers. Didn't use the manual for anything but the torque specs. I guess I did ok because the way I drive that thing (lots of power, more power, floored, brake, repeat), it survives.

 

Where do you redline at???

 

Matt

72 500Z

 

[Mikelly]

I shift mine at 5500-6000, but the motor was supposedly assembled to withstand 7000 RPM revs. I don't buy this because the motor is externaly balanced and that is another thing I would change. If I ever have to go into this motor I will get a forged crank and have the whole assembly internaly balanced. So far it runs great except for the fuel presure and hard start issues which will be addressed this weekend.

 

Also, I use a Hydraulic instead of a solid valve train, but regardless of which you choose, go roller... The thing will spin up so much quicker!

 

BTW, Nice 305!

 

Mike

 

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"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

[Guest mattrp]

Thanks for the compliment, even if that mess doesn't deserve it. When the next engine goes in I'll finish the engine compartment properly.

 

That definitely tells me my engine is tired. Just revving the engine, freewheeling past like 4500 makes a bad vibration. I figured the stroker didn't like to go as high, maybe its just junk!!!

 

Next picture I post will look more like yours. That is my new goal, with a little flair of my own of course. Maybe some wild paint colors or something.

 

Matt

72 500Z