Would someone please, please double-check my settings?

[HeatRaveR]

Alrighty...after months of putting it off and fiddling about, I think I'm finally ready to start up my Z with Megasquirt! I've researched around here looking at people's posted settings, but I'm still extremely paranoid about it, cuz admittedly, I just copied many of the settings from the stickied posts even though I don't necessarily understand every field. So can someone please double-check my settings and make sure I'm not missing any settings or else put some wrong values in? If I didn't post a picture of it here, then it's something I haven't changed/inputted.

 

Here's a recap of the relevant bits of my car's setup:

1982 280ZX Turbo

Megasquirt I V3.0, running 29v firmware (currently wired up with GM coolant/IAT sensors, and is only controlling Fuel-only for now), purchased preassembled from DIY Autotune

Innovate LC1 wideband sensor

240SX TPS

RC Engineering 370cc injectors on Pallnet fuel rail

Garrett GT35R turbo

 

Constants:

Displacement - 2753cc

Injectors - 370cc

A/F Ratio - 14.7

 

 

I did the TPS test for my 240SX TPS and got values of 23 for Closed Throttle, and 135 for Full Throttle. But when I go back into the TPS Calibration function, the fields are blank again. Am I supposed to enter these TPS values elsewhere, or is it normal for it to be blank everytime I go in there after having gotten calibration values?

 

Of course, I'll be taking it to be dyno tuned and have the settings refined. But in the meantime, I can't afford to be dumping fuel in like crazy, so please let me know if I should tweak the current fuel settings, if they look way off.

 

Lastly, can someone share with me their settings for the 8x8 AFR Targets menu and table? I saw a 12x12 table posted, but was hesitant to try and scale that down, so I'd rather see someone else's.

 

Thanks guys!

[naviathan]

I haven't even looked at my MS setup in 6 months, but that looks a little rich on the warmups and accel enrichments to me.

[mobythevan]

Here are my thoughts:

 

1. Your are running PWM, so I guess your injectors are low impedance types, is that true?

 

2. FIDLE threshold should be a lot lower, like 80-120 degrees maybe. That assumes you are really using a fast idle solenoid.

 

3. If you don't have a wideband or narrowband O2 sensor then just set the active above RPM to like 7000rpm. Maybe it doesn't matter since the authority is 0. Just make sure it is disabled, looks like it is to me.

 

4. If your TPS only shows 135 at full throttle I would check and make sure you are really opening up the throttle blade all the way when you push the pedal. Sounds like you are only getting about half throttle.

 

Otherwise you settings look fine to get the car running and then start tuning.

[HeatRaveR]

I haven't even looked at my MS setup in 6 months, but that looks a little rich on the warmups and accel enrichments to me.

 

How many % points do you reckon I should lower the values across the range (factoring in the larger-than-stock 370cc injectors)?

[HeatRaveR]

Here are my thoughts:

 

1. Your are running PWM, so I guess your injectors are low impedance types, is that true?

 

2. FIDLE threshold should be a lot lower, like 80-120 degrees maybe. That assumes you are really using a fast idle solenoid.

 

3. If you don't have a wideband or narrowband O2 sensor then just set the active above RPM to like 7000rpm. Maybe it doesn't matter since the authority is 0. Just make sure it is disabled, looks like it is to me.

 

4. If your TPS only shows 135 at full throttle I would check and make sure you are really opening up the throttle blade all the way when you push the pedal. Sounds like you are only getting about half throttle.

 

Otherwise you settings look fine to get the car running and then start tuning.

 

1. Yes, my injectors are low impedance (that's what the stock kind are as well, if I recall correctly). So it's set up correctly for that, right?

 

2. I haven't fiddled with the FIDLE setting(s) at all. I don't have any fast idle solenoid at all, to the best of my knowledge. Or, if I do have one, stock, the MS isn't wired up to it.

 

3. I do have the Innovate Wideband sensor, and have activated the appropriate coding in the Megatune Configurator, per DIY Autotune's FAQ. However, I'm unsure if I should be changing any other settings in the EGO Control menu.

 

4. I'll double check the TPS Full Throttle again tonight. Is it normal for the TPS fields to be blank everytime I go in there?

 

Thanks again.

[mobythevan]

If you have the wideband sensor and you wan't to do correction you need to set up the target AFR tables and set the authority and other EGO settings, but you could worry about that later after you have it running.

[HeatRaveR]

Ok, one more thing: I can't seem to get the Megasquirt to send a signal to the fuel pump relay wire when I turn the key to the "On" position. It just says "Fuel Pump Off" in the lower left corner. How do I make it go on? I tried fiddling with the drop-down menus in the Cranking/Prime Table, but couldn't get it to go on.

 

As a temporary work-around, I left the fuel pump relay wire connected to the stock ECU, so that it would go on. But naturally, I'd like the MS to have control of that.

 

So I managed to start the car without exploding, though as naviathan predicted, it seems to be running pretty rich. As in smelly-rich. ^^ I dunno if this' necessarily the correct thing to do, but I lowered all the VE Table values and ASE values by 5% all around. I'll probably try those new settings tomorrow or something.

[mario_82_ZXT]

MS works opposite of the stock ECU for FP control.

It grounds it instead of sending power to it. What I did on my ZX was I added a small solid state relay activated by the MS box that would then relay power to the correct pin in the harness.

 

Just like stock, the MS box just primes the FP for a few seconds then shuts it off until it detects the engine is running.

 

All the tables and setting should be looked as starting points. Recheck the ignition timing and then slow wittle at the AFRs and drivability.

 

Congrats on getting it started.

Mario

[HeatRaveR]

MS works opposite of the stock ECU for FP control.

It grounds it instead of sending power to it. What I did on my ZX was I added a small solid state relay activated by the MS box that would then relay power to the correct pin in the harness.

 

Just like stock, the MS box just primes the FP for a few seconds then shuts it off until it detects the engine is running.

 

All the tables and setting should be looked as starting points. Recheck the ignition timing and then slow wittle at the AFRs and drivability.

 

Congrats on getting it started.

Mario

 

Currently, I have the ground of the FP relay wired through a kill switch to ground. So I guess I can just have that ground instead connect to the MS instead of chassis ground, and then leave the (+) of the relay connected to the original ECU. Either that, or just don't bother having the MS connect to the FP relay at all, since the stock ECU (which should turn on/off at the same time anyways) is already controlling the FP relay.

[naviathan]

No for the fuel pump you'll need to add a relay to make it work properly. I pull an old relay from another junk Z I had in the yard found which pins were bridge and which were supply/switch voltage. I then connect a hot from the EFI relay for the injectors to the new relay so I only get hot when the key is on and the MS FP wire to the ground side of the supply/switch pins. I jumpered the same hot I used for the supply off the EFI relay to one side of the bridge pins and ran a wire to the original fuel pump relay from the other side. So when I turn on the key the EFI relay energizes sending power to my injectors and to my primary fuel pump relay at both the switch and the bridge. When the MS sends the FP on ground to the switch side of the primary fuel pump relay it closes the bridge contacts and sends the hot on to the secondary (formerly the only) fuel pump relay. Hope that makes sense.

[HeatRaveR]

Ok, so the engine sort of starts ok, though the idle sometimes threatens (or does) die. I finally tried to take it for a drive and came across another problem. In order to save fuel, I used the Overrun settings described by Moby here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=872176&postcount=16

 

As soon as I try to put a load on the engine to get going, the engine dies. I can rev it up just fine, but as soon as I try to let in the clutch and give it some gas, it sputters and dies. Any thoughts?

 

Later, I turned the Overrun function off, and it did seem to improve, but I don't know if it's solely because by that point the engine was warmed up (I had returned full engine control back to the stock ECU to initially get where I was going). Still, even though I was able to drive it, I was getting a pretty strong gassy smell, and the A/F ratio goes way rich when let off the gas pedal. How should I tweak the Overrun function to correct this?

[mario_82_ZXT]

Mess with the over run settings after you have a fairly good initial tune. Leave them turned off for now.

 

Are you using a wideband to monitor the AFRs? If not, it's kinda just a guessing game. If you do, you might be able to slowly rough out a table using MegaLog viewer and wideband AFR target tables.

 

Mario

[datman]

Switch injectors over to 2 squirts alternating....mine runs better like that.

[HeatRaveR]

Ok, so I'm at the dyno tuner's now, but I'm having problems with these settings. The car will crank but dies shortly afterwards. It seems like it might be flooding, but we aren't clear what to tweak and by how much. Also, this may or may not be the cause, but when we open the file, it tells us, "Although the file was read succesfully, there were 5 warnings written to the audit.log..." But when we try to start up the Audit Log in the Help menu, it says, "Couldn't edit _______.log ShellExecute error code 31". So how do we see what the errors are?

 

So how do we

[cygnusx1]

Not sure if this helps but...

 

1) The only time I got error messages was if I didn't match the settings in the "Configurator" with the proper hardware/firmware that was in the MS box and sensors.

 

2) If it starts and dies, make sure your fuel pump is staying on (common problem). Also, adjust your after start enrichment leaner/richer and the amount of time that the afterstart enrichment stays active.

 

Reduce the warmups to 100% and ASE to about 5-10% and try again. You can also change the main value that effects ALL your mixtures----"ReQ Fuel 8.4" try lowering it or raising it manually until it idles after cranking. That number is like a MAIN MIXTURE KNOB. You can turn it up or down until you are in the ballpark.

[HeatRaveR]

 

Reduce the warmups to 100% and ASE to about 5-10% and try again. You can also change the main value that effects ALL your mixtures----"ReQ Fuel 8.4" try lowering it or raising it manually until it idles after cranking. That number is like a MAIN MIXTURE KNOB. You can turn it up or down until you are in the ballpark.

 

Thanks, I'll give that a whack. Just to make sure, if I manually lower the "ReQ Fuel" value, am I lowering the amount of fuel going in, or is it the other way around? I notice the gray field under the "8.4" says "4.2", so is that the value I should be putting in the field above it?

[cygnusx1]

Lower the 8.4 number and all of your fuel will reduce. Your injectors are squirting twice to acheive the dose required. They squirt 4.2 units twice = 8.4units per cycle. Reduce the 8.4 to 8.3...8.2...8.1 ....until you get it to idle. You might even want to try increasing if reducing doesn't get you there.

 

Also take a regular timing light and make sure your idle timing is around 15-25 BTDC.