Guest Anonymous Posted March 14, 2001 Share Posted March 14, 2001 Dig it, I took off the mustache bar on Saturday and threw away the top 1/8" steel washer, and then clamped the bushed ends in the mill and took off 3/8" of the polyurethane and the inner metal spacer. Bolted it back up (raising the back of the diff 1/2"), and took it out on the highway- I CAN'T BELIEVE THE DIFFERENCE. No kidding, it's amazing. The noise level in the car is cut in half. There's no vibration at 70 MPH, a little at about 85, so I've got more adjusting to do, but wow, what a change. Check your driveshaft angles, they're important! Oh, and thanks to Pete Paraska, that's where I got the idea! still loving my six speed, Quill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted March 14, 2001 Share Posted March 14, 2001 This is a very important point to bring up. The axis of the tranny output shaft and the axis of the pinion gear must be parallel for smooth and reliable operation. These two might be offset a few inches, but must (or should) be parallel non-the-less. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted March 15, 2001 Share Posted March 15, 2001 Quill, bud, you're welcome. I love to hear when my pages help somebody out! Terry, I had to do the mod that Quill points out to not only get the angles the same BUT to get them down to the range of 3 degrees or less. This second issue is important and not easily obtained with such a short driveshaft. I really like Ron Tyler's method of mounting the front of the diff lower using a mount from the top of the diff using a custom bracket and the bolt holes for the arrestor strap. This way, the nose of the diff can come down, and get the height of the pinion flange closer to the tranny output shaft height. Lowering the front of the diff is actually preferable to raising the rear of it for this reason. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted March 16, 2001 Share Posted March 16, 2001 Quill - did you use the subframe spacers up front per JTR or not? I'm getting close to bolting mine in and am going to try leaving the spacers out the first go around. I've done the moustache bar mod... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rick Johnson Posted March 16, 2001 Share Posted March 16, 2001 On my 240 I left the JTR front cross member spacers out, modified the top of my mustache bar bushings and sectioned my rear diff crossmember to lower the front of my diff another 1/4". It took all 3 changes to get my trans parrallel with my diff and achieve less than a 3 degree angle at both u joints. I also built an angle piece that limits the amount the diff can rise under accelleration - the stock mount is really soft and will allow a huge angle change under accelleration Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 16, 2001 Share Posted March 16, 2001 I left out the JTR spacers (I wanted the car lower, not higher). I've got big plans to section the front diff mount on Sunday, we'll see if the wife agrees. Measuring all the angles is a PIA, I'm using a magnetic starret angle finder, but getting all the numbers to work out is very confusing (even with AutoCAD to help out). It looks like I need to lower the nose a little bit to get it right, but I've got more measuring to do. The difference with just the rear mods is amazing, though. I also finally got my Demon carb to idle right, the darn thing wouldn't idle at less than 1500 rpm no matter what I did, until I found that little screw head on one of the intake cover plates that kept the secondary linkage from closing all the way. Duh. The car just keeps getting better, even as the NY salt is killing it... time for another Eastwood order. Q Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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