BLKMGK Posted March 19, 2001 Share Posted March 19, 2001 Allright - stuck trying to put the motor in I turned to the clutch slave. My slave looks nothing like what JTR pictures and I figure it must be a T5 slave they show. My slave has a braided line coming out of it and what looks like a roll pin ataching it to the slave. So, should I simply cut that at the master and try to put a fitting on it for the Tilton master? How do ya' do this? Here I was all set to grit my teeth and tap plastic and my setup is completely different - phooey! Suggestions please - I can post pics if needed, maybe even document this for others if someone can guide me. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 19, 2001 Share Posted March 19, 2001 Yeah, that's a funky hose connection GM engineered for the slave cyl. When I put mine in, I cut off just enough plastic to get a square end (just past the roll pin hole), and carefully drilled and tapped it for a 1/8 pipe fitting. It was very easy, and has held up fine. I then used a 1/8 pipe to -3 JIC fitting, and got a hose from the hydraulic place up the street to connect it to the clutch master. Q Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted March 19, 2001 Share Posted March 19, 2001 Why are the mounting studs for the slave so long on the T56? Are you supposed to adjust along the studs for the proper position of the slave, or do you turn the nuts down until the stop? ------------------ http://members.tripod.com/~SnowSurfer/mikekz1.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted March 19, 2001 Author Share Posted March 19, 2001 Quill - you didn't happen to cut the OEM braided hose and look to see if it would take a fitting did you? setting up the regualr braided stuff isn't hard and if I can use an OEM fitting down below and just set it up on the top that would be great! I'm going to try and fit the motor again tonight but if I get frustrated I'll be cutting that hose tonight for a peek. It's not like I'm liable to be using that end for anything else anyway and it looks to be long enough. If that doesn't work out I DO have a 90 degreee AN fitting and the right adapters for the slave (shrug). Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 20, 2001 Share Posted March 20, 2001 MikeKZ The long studs for the slave are there to hold an aluminumn spacercover that goes between the slave and the trans. The slave fits into this part and then that part fits over the studs and also acts as sort of a boot that will never wear out. Part is available from your local chevy dealer. I had to buy one also. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted March 20, 2001 Share Posted March 20, 2001 BLKMGK, Check my tech article and do exactly as I outline in it and you will be much happier...Trust me. It workes... Call me if you need me... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted March 20, 2001 Share Posted March 20, 2001 Thanks Mark, I'll look into that. BLKMGK, The stock braided hose isn't long enough anyways, you need to have one made. ------------------ http://members.tripod.com/~SnowSurfer/mikekz1.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 21, 2001 Share Posted March 21, 2001 The stainless braided hose from the GM slave cylinder is AN-4 and will accept a -4 hose end at the opposite end from the slave cylinder just fine-this end can then threaded to an adapter to 3/16 brake line and mated to the Tilton slave cyliner that way-no need to thread the slave cylinder plastic as the JTR manual says-mine has worked fine this way for 5,000 miles. ------------------ Tony 1972 240Z w/ZZ430/T56/GTO body kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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