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Now I've got an R200 question - Help!


BLKMGK

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Okay, I'm finally putting my R200 LSD in the car. After figuring out that the Moustache bar was bassackwards and having to disassemble a BUNCH of stuff I got it in. However, the solid mount I've got won't bolt up! I can get one bolt in if I turn the mount (maybe) but then obviously the second one won't line up. Naturally I had to unbolt a bunch of stuff to even get the long bolts through the diff (sigh). Do I need to push the Moustahce bar back some (flex it) in order to get the front mount bolted up? This is the same bar that came out of the car - I'm puzzled. frown.gif It's been a long time since I pulled it all apart so maybe I've screwed something else up? Help!

 

Here's a page of pics-> http://216.254.117.47/development/testweb.nsf/4691e0edd8a01bd6852569ae0075e9c4/54f18bfcc388fe7285256a210078b926?OpenDocument

 

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Heh, I've been told to bolt the FRONT mount on FIRST and then bolt the back side on and use the nuts to draw the moustache bar down. Geez, too simple huh? I wanted those back bolts in first because it weighs a ton and was a PITA to press up. My jack helps but to do it right a trans jack woudl work best. Oh well, I've got a plan now at least! I feel silly... smile.gif

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I just slotted the holes in the front mount after two tries, one with the holes forward, and one with them aft. The holes in the mount wanted to be even with the stud instead of offset. This resulted in a pretty good fit. I did, however, also use a curved '72+ R180 moustache bar, so my fit may be different from yours.

 

Anyway, I think it's a good idea to try to mount things up unstressed, so I resorted to filing.

 

Dan Baldwin

'71 240Z 3.1

COMSCC #7 SPB

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Whoops, I didn't look at your picture closely enough. My mount is a welded up stock one, so slotting the holes was no prob. Now I see it's not an option for you. Hmmmm......

I guess there's little bending stress from operational loads in the flimsy direction of the moustache bar, but I'd still feel kinda funny about preloading it to mount it up. That looks to be your only option if you want to use that mount. Or you could have a stock mount welded up.

 

Dan Baldwin

'71 240Z 3.1

COMSCC #7 SPB

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I welded the mount directly to the bushing bracket (being I would most likely remove this bracket anyway if I removed the differential. I bolted the mount to the diff, then welded it to the bracket just as it sat on it. No prestress this way, and no regretes.

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Still working this one. Bench pressed the damn thing off my chest about 4 times last night trying to get it "right". Lifting it this way seems to work best smile.gif This is the SAME bar and mount that I had in the car with a previous R200 darn it! Could the LSD be shorter somehow?

 

I think that slotting the (red) forward crossmember might be an option or I'll have to stress the moustache bar. Before I realized I had an R200 I ordered another moustache bar. When it showed up I had already removed mine - comparing them they were IDENTICAL. I have the bar in the car correctly behind the risers... The holes on the solid mount are offset from the stud and it seems like everything wants to be centered like Dan said. One of the ways I put the mount on makes it VERY close to the hole but even using a prybar I couldn't quite get it to drop in. Slotting may be the answer I guess. I'll snap a shot of the other moustache bar to post Wednesday.

 

Drat, this was supposed to be aneasy part with the exception of lifting the darned thing into the car! Perhaps before I do the final fit I'll snap a pic of the mount. It's the MSA mount and looks just like the one in their catalog. They know my car is a '72 and I told them this was for an R200 - it should be the correct mount for this application.

 

Oh, and I've put a small piece of rubber under the stud - Pete, do you think this will change driveline angles very much? It may lift the snout by as much as a 1/4inch. I've lopped the moustache bushings, have I just negated that by slightly lifting the snout? I can always switch back later but it might be a chore...

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Well, my car is a 78 so I didnt swap anything other than old bushings for new bushings. I had no problems lining things up after the new bushings were installed; some of the bushings were tight/just started a few threads on each bolt prior to tightening everything.

 

I did put the mustache bar on first; then jacked the floorjack/with diff. up slowly till the bolt holes from the mustache bar slid in. Then the lower mounts only needed to have their bolts started; started them w/my fingers first-then snug'd them w/air gun. I dont remember having to "Force" them to line up(?).

 

Dont have a clue as to why your's are not lining up(?); have you tried prying them in.....gently...just to see what might happen? Obviously-you dont want to pry beyond the point of diminishing returns (something breaks or bends).

 

Anyway-that was my senquence of events;not sure it helped/but there it is anyway.

 

Kevin,

(Yes,Still an Inliner)

 

PS: After looking at your picture again...Correct me it I'm wrong...but you're not just having an "Alignment of Parts Problem (East & West) but you are coming up short (North & South) Alignment Problems(?): yes/no? Are Control Arms different from the earlier "Z" to the Newer Z's? If you're changing from R180 to a R200-do you also need to change lower control arms/I know JTR doesnt mention this...but something is different & throwing your Geometry off. Definately post more pictures as this is too odd to figure out from just one picture/You also Sectioned your struts, didnt you: still that shouldnt effect your control arm Geometry? Too weird/definately a mystery!

 

[This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited April 03, 2001).]

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I'll be working on this next week, no time before I head to Florida this week. Right now th earms are the same as before except one I replaced, it was identical to th eone it replaced except it was straight smile.gif This appears to be a NorthSouth issue. I THINK what I will do is put it up there one more time with the front mount bolted on and see how far from dropping in the front hole it is. With the cover bolts lightly started it was VERY clode. However when I torque down the cover bolts I'll be drawing the moustache bar to the cover. I'm not sure how confortable I am with that...

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You sure you have an R200 mustache bar?

 

Anyway, if you raise the front of the diff by 1/4" you'll change the angle of the pinion to horizontal by about 1 degree upward at the pinion - problem is this is the wrong direction for good u-joint angles in the V8 Z, generally.

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Okay, I'm back and tried it again tonight - damn thing dropped right in up front!

 

However... in th eback th enuts are barely tightened down. As I tighten them the moustache bar draws down on the uprights - not cool. "Eyes" of the moustache bar are forward, if I were to flip it over the bar would be in front of the uprights toward the front of th ecar. Drat! Ideas? Should I take more pics to post? I have a second bar that was supposed to be out of an R200 car that even says R200 on it in yard paint - that matches this bar perfectly... Help!

 

Oh, and should there be any sort of rubber on the back of the diff? Isolator of any sort? That might acocunt for the weirdness?

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IT'S IN!!!!!!

 

Grr! I had to again flip the front mount arund which put it close to dropping in with the moustache bar bolted up. I then pried lightly on the rear and it dropped in the hole at last. Whew! I dumped the rubber piece, we'll see how the angles work out and then if the solid piece is too much consider using it again.

 

P.S. Found a second pinhole in my aluminum cell! It's like the gas is eating the tank?! I'm getting sick of this....

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