T-56 slave in trouble

[Owen]

My slave cylinder for the T56 is leaking, guess I did a bad job following Mike Kelly's tech article.

It's leaking at the plastic threaded part. Not when it's just sitting for a while but when I actually pump the pedal...I really need another alternative cuz I'll probably just screw up if I try the same thing again.

Summit has a pull type slave with metal threaded fittings. Anyone hear anything about this?

Thanks,

Owen

 

 

 

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[Guest Anonymous]

Umm.. Just questioning, actually the T56 uses a Push type slave (and a pull type pressure plate/throwout bearing) the T5 uses a push type, but a different bellhousing/fork arrangement, I think theres a thread saying the T56 and T5 slaves are nearly identical except for the hose coming in at the top instead of the back like the T56.

 

Lone

[Owen]

Mike Kelly had mentioned in an earlier post an issue of volume for the slave cylinders. It seems this is true,

"GM has managed to designed a hydrolic system that doesn't have much in the way of tolerances. I suspect this may have something to do with the Mexico manufactured Tremec (T-56) trannys in the later Z28s, but that's conjecture (perhaps variant postion of the slave mount?). GM has changed the hydrolic design 3 times in 4 years due to these issues. The most recent change, the "288" slave is another attempt to fix clutch problems.. So is the "Z06" clutch. Looks like GM is making cars that upon clutch replacement, have a clutch that is displaced too far (does not completely engage) - slippage - or not far enough (can't disengage) - hard shifting. McLeod has designed different slaves and different slave shims, but it really is a process of "trial and error" and depends on your car!

*The missing end of this puzzle is probably the master cylinder, which needs to be designed to displace a specific amount of fluid* I'm told that this is the solution to MY problem.. A slave with a smaller bore would work also, but would result in increased pedal pressure.."

 

I can't remember where this came from. But if the T-5 has less volume, it might work out for the best.

 

Owen

 

 

 

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[Guest Anonymous]

Yeah, I'm sure there is a 'optimal' volume pedal/stroke ratio that was designed in. I'm using a 3/4" master and its definately a firm pedal, 13/16" might be a good compromise if its available (Terry I think it was had one from a datsun truck of that size). I havn't had the opportunity to try a pedal with a 7/8" bore so don't know how firm that is, and I think its pretty subjective depending on your leg muscles

I'm sure theres several slaves that would work with just some bracketry that would be better, I wasn't crazy about a plastic slave under hydraulic pressure, but knock on wood (pounding on my head) it is working so far, but I don't have many miles on the setup yet.

 

Lone

[BLKMGK]

There's a couple of ways to fix this:

 

1) use liquid teflon on the existing junction and reseal. Let it dry and try again. I'd try this first...

 

2) buy another slave w/hose and do one of the following:

 

a) remove the roll pin at the slave, cut off the existing hose from the junction block, drilltapthread, run a new hose from a fitting in the new hole. Problem is there doesn't look to be much metal in that block.

 

cut the existing -4 hose at the top near the master. Extend it with two straight fittings and a union. Problem here is that the Tilton masters use a -3 line. You might be able to find an adapter or you might be able to extend the -4 with -3 line and an adapter at the junction. Last but not least -4 holds more volume so I'm not sure what this would do to pedal feel with the -4 being used.

 

Anyway, I looked seriously at all of these ideas when I did mine. However I already had ALL of the parts to do what everyone else had done and tap the plastic slave so that's what I did - with teeth gritted! It SEEMS to be fine now. A metal T5 with bleed screw might not be too expensive and worth a shot tho'...

[Owen]

After searching thru the archives, I've seen that JuJu has used a mid 80's T5 and F-150 M/C, and I belive Mike Kz used this on his T56? No threading was done from what I read.

 

Someone else used a S-10 Blazer slave, Grannys Speed Shop talks about this as well.

I bought with the intention of returning, an S-10 slave (1992), looks sorta like the T56 slave, thinner, and has a bleed screw. It's plastic though.

 

So my next question is, MikeKz did you actually use the T5 slave? What M/C?

 

I'm hoping I can keep my tilton M/C and find a hose or hose nipple to use to connect to the S-10 slave OR find a metal bodied T5 slave from something else and find a hose for it. It;s a shame to get rid of that braided line though...

 

Owen

 

 

 

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[Mike kZ]

Owen, I did use a T5 slave on my T56, I used it because of the bleed screw.I have the Tilton M/C, 7/8ths, I think. I had a 40" -4 braided hose made, and taped the slave for the fittings. I didn't use JuJu's method because I couldn't find the plastic hose at the dealer( I would have to special order it). But I think his set up would work on a T56.

 

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[Owen]

Thanks Mike,

So even with the T5 you had to tap the inlet?

I tried to find a hose for the Blazer slave but no parts store could find it. But then I would need the M/C for the hose style as well...this sux.

Owen

 

 

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[Mike kZ]

Originally posted by Owen:

 

So even with the T5 you had to tap the inlet?

 

I did, but if you use JuJu's method you don't have to I think. He wasn't sure how long the stock Ford line was, but thinks it was about 40 inches. That would be enough for a T56. But like I said Ford did not have that line in stock, and had to special order it, which means it's mine no matter what. Plus it costs $40 for a plastic line. I paid $28 for a -4 braided hose.

 

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[Guest Anonymous]

The one that came with my t56 changeover was a stainless braided line, but it was real short and as mentioned had a slip in connector with a roll pin holding it in. I got the whole pedal assembly and its amazing how cheaply made the whole thing is, heres our little Z's with huge pedal box and thick pedals, and the Z28 stuff is whimpy by comparison.

 

Lone

[Owen]

$40 for a plastic hose?! I don't even remember what the hose looked like that came with my T56 set. And how does this plastic hose stand up to twin clutch discs?

Nothing is hugely wrong with my setup, just leaking and I could rethread the slave, I just don't wanna mess up the same way twice.

Owen

 

 

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[BLKMGK]

An FYI about that GM -4 hose... On the later LS1 cars an dpossibly the ones we're looking to it has a RESTRICTOR in it. This is causing BIG problems at the drags with those trannies as after the 1-2 shift and heading for third all of the fluid has yet to return to the resevior and the shift isn't clean. This was talked about in this month's Super Chevy (think that's it). They also had some real nice pics of th eLS1 throwout - it looks like the Tilton stuff we're considering for the T5s! If it's throw is correct that migh tbe a VERY good TO to consider for hydraulic setups....

[pparaska]

Jim, that was in the latest Chevy High Performance. They said that the restrictor was in the line just below where the master fitting is. They drilled it out to 1/8". They weren't sure if the earlier F-body cars had this, but the LS-1 does.