frame drawing

[AK-Z]

So to ensure that the frame that I'm building will be mounted straight, I came up with this drawing. The areas with the most structure, is the area under the floor. I thought a single piece of C channel wouldn't be the most rigid, So I drew it that way. any suggestions, before I start buying materials?

 

I was thinking 1 inche square tubing and the main part that attaches to the front lower part of the frame would be 2 1/2 inche heavy gauge square tubing cut in half. The outer most part would be attaches to the inner most side of the rockers right against the seam welds. Thought I present this before I go out and try to build it and find out that I did something stupid.

 

I know that building a cage is ideal, but I and short on time, tools, and supplies. I might build a cage that attaches to this in the future (keep that in mind when making suggestions so that I may add some things now to make putting a cage in easier, later).

 

Thanks

[MoNkEyT88]

I need to really sit down and decide what I'm going to do with the frame beneath the floor, as that is the step I'm on now.

 

I was going to just run one 3x1" sq tube down the middle of the floor pan, and then another down the outside, with support connecting the two in the middle, and at the ends. That would give me something to weld the roll cage through the floor.

 

I am also doing a 12pt cage, so I'm trying to think light.

[ZROSSA]

Dont want to be rude, But I dont think you are going to acheive much more then a lot of work and extra weight. You dont need most of the under floor c section. Use box section or turn it upside down so that it forms a box with the underside of the floor. You only really need subframe connecters under there. Have a look at some of John Mortesen's (spelling?) chassis posts. He has pretty much flogged the issuie to death and there is some good info. You need to add some trianglulation to the strut towers and dash bar. To really make it effective it needs to then be joined to the rear strut towers.

 

Cheers, Douglas

[AK-Z]

Dont want to be rude, But I dont think you are going to acheive much more then a lot of work and extra weight. You dont need most of the under floor c section. Use box section or turn it upside down so that it forms a box with the underside of the floor. You only really need subframe connecters under there. Have a look at some of John Mortesen's (spelling?) chassis posts. He has pretty much flogged the issuie to death and there is some good info. You need to add some trianglulation to the strut towers and dash bar. To really make it effective it needs to then be joined to the rear strut towers.

 

Cheers, Douglas

 

The "Dash bar" as you so call it, isn't located inside the cabin. It's mounted against the firewall.The WHOLE floor has to be cut out anyways so Building "around a box" won't be necessary, and I'm short . Plus I have to replace a 1/3 of the firewall on the pass side.

 

I'm going to be building this off chassis, so I can be assured that this will be straight. But yes, I think just a simple box would be easier.

 

I'm going to be using a KA24DE so weight isn't really an issue.

 

I'm going off of 74_5.0L_Z design, somewhat. But looking at his pics some more. I think I h=need to add a little more tubing around the strut area.

 

 

[EMWHYR0HEN]

Cool drawing.

 

To be honest with you I think the floor structures are totally unecessary. I think guys that go 4x4ing don't even go that far.

 

If your floors are rotted out just replace them with the zedd findings floors or buy some sheet, and use some rectangular tubing for the SFC. I've actually just gone through this and If I were to do it again, I would use 2x2 sq. tubing instead if 1x3 because you want a tube with more depth for the SFC.

 

Here's the thread I posted :

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125985&highlight=rust+removal

[AK-Z]

Main reason for the added metal is mostly for orientation.

 

the front is crooked. Main reason I'm chopping the front. SFC are rotted through too, and has already disconnected (stepped throught the rotted floor on accident). So I can't garrentee that the cabin is entirely straight. So the outer parts pf the SFC of the frame will be guided by the pinch welds at the bottom of the rockers (well in theory).

After that then I don't have to worry about

wending the floors and then finding out that the cabin isn't straight.