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280Z or 280ZXT?


Owen

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Thanks to all who have told me that the 280Z stub axles are best because of their strength. But what about 280ZXTs? I know these need a little work but will fit in the 240Z carrier. Are they significantly weaker?

I would assume the things get stronger and beefer as the years go on.

Thanks.

Owen

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Just to make sure there's no confusion: The general agreement is that the later 280Z stubs are the strongest - hence the group purchase on the weld-on flange adapter to allow for CV axles with 280 stubs.

 

Personally, I'm using the CVs with the stock 240 stubs - it was easier and I don't plan on running 500hp or slicks.

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Guest Anonymous

Jeromio,

 

Was there anything else involved if you use the 240z stubs and Cv's? I need to change to a R200, and if its not a major undertaking, I'd change to Cv's at the same time, same deal here, I won't be running that much HP (probably 350-400 tops when I get around to phase II of the project) or slicks.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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I got all my info from Terry Oxandale's site.

 

Basically, you have to come up with a way to seal the inner bearing. The solution I used was a stock 280ZXt seal with a piece of rubber to make up the difference. I went to the home center and found a rubber plumbing coupling - it was the center part of a PVC shower drain icon_rolleyes.gif . I used that along with some of that plumber's cheater black rubber tape stuff. You stretch it, wrap it around, it sticks to itself and then shrinks back a bit. It sounds cloogey, but it ended up looking pretty robust.

 

The other 2 methods are to either use an R200 pinion seal with the outer rubber removed (I couldn't get this to go in the carrier no matter how much of the OD I ground off), or cutting a "ring" of PVC pipe with a section cut out to make it the correct OD.

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Guest Anonymous

Thanks, yeah I got to reading Terry's site last night about it. I saw he used a bushing in that one method. I may try it, as I really don't want to have to worry about U-joints. The outside 240z stub axles and flanges bolt up to the CV flange (on the wheel side) as is? Thanks for the info.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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The details I have are at:

 

http://members.home.net/pparaska/240ZCVHalfshaftConversion.htm

 

Other than the inner seal at the companion flange, and the swapping of the dust sheild on the companion flange (from the 240 part to the 280ZXT part), it's a bolt up.

 

Assuming that your CV shafts don't bind when you install them. I've heard of two people this happened to : Greg Kring, and now DavyZ.

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Guest Anonymous

Maybe you need a sigmoid? icon_smile.gif

 

J/K

 

Lone

 

Ps: Thanks Pete, I'll check it out.

 

[ June 05, 2001: Message edited by: lonehdrider ]

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