Guest Anonymous Posted June 18, 2001 Share Posted June 18, 2001 I know that this has been discussed before, but I have been away for about 6 months. I have read the excellent artical about the making of the adapter, but would prefer to buy one and the CV axels as well. any help would be greatly appreciated. At one time there was someone who was going to maunfacture the conversion plate adapters to allow the use of the 280ZX CV joints for use in a 280 Z with R 200. I would like to upgrade. I have broken 3 U joints but have been lucky last two trips to the track after replacing springs to stock ride height and going to solid joints. I am running a welded R200 w/ 3.90 gears ant a T350 with 2500 rpm stall. Car has run best of 11.95 at 113. slow 60 ft times of 1.7 to 1.8. I would like to add some NOS, but am afraid I will start breaking parts again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted June 18, 2001 Share Posted June 18, 2001 bubafet, great to hear from you again! Unfortunately, you missed out on Scottie's gracious efforts in setting up a group purchase for the weld-on CV adapter. This part welds on to the 240-280Z companion flange (280Z suggested to get the better strength 280Z stub axle in the car). Maybe someone has a set they aren't planning to use? I think it was a one time thing, not to be repeated. I've had about 3 or 4 people tell me they were going to make the bolt on adapters like I have on my car that's documented on my site. But I've never heard back from them either. Man, 11.95s - that's fast in my book. I know some are working on the 10s, but if my car were to get into the 11s w/o N2O, I'd be happy! I agree that you may want to hold off on the N20. BTW, does the back end squat alot on launch? If so, I've heard that raising the rear of the diff can help lessen the half-shaft angle. My hunch is that when the Z squats alot the u-joint angle is severe, and it really lessens the strength of it. U-joints don't like to transmit alot of torque at severe angles. Supposedly, 7 degrees is a magic number to not go beyond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 19, 2001 Share Posted June 19, 2001 pete, thanks for the answer. I was afraid I had missed out. Iwent through a relocation this past fall and have spent more time trying to move the family sell house buy house etc. than stay up to date with you guys. Hav only recently began to work on car again and thought I'd ask. I did raise the ride height by going back to stock rear springs. It has not broke since then, but I feel it is just around the corner. Thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted June 19, 2001 Share Posted June 19, 2001 Just a suggestion, on one of my first Z cars, I redrilled the mustache bar one inch higher for the diff cover studs, and then spaced the front mount higher also. This raising of the differential helped keep things more aligned on the half-shafts with my lowered suspension. The top of the differential was just touching the crossmember that the unibody uses over the diff after doing this. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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