getZ Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 There have been several discussions on people having problems getting 300zxt CV's to fit correctly. Some have resolved their issues while others have not. I am one of those who still have issues with the fit, so I was wondering what combinations of parts others have used from stub axle to differential, year of car etc. This my combination: 1972 240z, original 72 shock tower, orirginal 72 rear bearing spacer, 78 280z control arms, MMS stub axles, MMS companion flange, 88 300zxt CV's, 88 300zx r200, power brute LSD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FREDDYRENATO Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 Hi there it's me again , today I whent to the shop where the car is at and , notice that the axles dont go in all the way ,mines look just like yours in the picture you posted , than i did this ,took the left axle and installed it in the right side , I know that the spline side is shorter than the right side but it was just to test it , than I compress the suspension using a trans jack and notice that i had just about 3/8" of side to side movement and the spline side ofcorse does not sit all the way in to the end of diff (the quafe has a stop at the middle of the diff wich will not let you go in too far) but just whanted ti see it , knowing this I removed the left axle and try it in the left side and I notice that with the suspenssion hanging the axle feels like is binding and it does not move in or out , but ones I compressed the susp i had again about 1/4" of clearance , so I installed the lock ring in the diff and the left axle with the cage fliped in the left side and now I am going to find me another left axle and replace the spline side with the right side one and I know is going to work fine , now if any body has a spare left axle I will buy it from you. HERE IS MY COMBINATION : 1971 240Z EIBACK LOWER SPRINGS ,TOKIKO ADJUSTABLES INSERTS ,1986 300ZX TURBO R200 DIFF , QUAFE LSD, AXLES FRON SAME VEHICLE 86 300ZX T,MMS STUB AXLES AND FLANGES , ADJUSTABLE CONTRL ARMS. I HOPE THIS HELPS TO SOME ONE THE SAME WAY IT HELPED ME. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 PG Powerbrute, Arizona Z Car Billet LCA's, 280z Stubs, 300zxT axles (from a USA 87 I believe). No bind. I haven't checked for max clearance yet, will try this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted May 23, 2008 Author Share Posted May 23, 2008 Just for reference I put some pictures to show the angle of my halfshafts. They are just about perpendicular to the diff. There were some ideas for fixes, custom axles, move the slightly forward I just havent had time to realy try anything yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FREDDYRENATO Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 Here are some pics of my set up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted May 26, 2008 Author Share Posted May 26, 2008 I put more pics just to illustrate the point. See how close the inner axle of the CV is to the stub axle. The outer green bearing cage is the part that does most of the moving in and out. In normal driving the car never has the control arms drooping that far down so the CV would square up against the stub axle when the car is resting on the ground. This is also without the end caps! I think I'm going to send these axles out or at least price having them shortend up about half an inch. If that gets to out of control expensive, I'm going to opt for the aftermarket control arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 I would have to say something looks pretty wrong with the above photos. Very long shaft. I would at least look for some other 300zxT CV's from the junkyard or something similar before sending those to get cut. EDIT: It is impossible to tell though how far the shaft is into the accompanying CV on the diff side. Is that fully compressed on the diff side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted May 26, 2008 Author Share Posted May 26, 2008 I would have to say something looks pretty wrong with the above photos. Very long shaft. I would at least look for some other 300zxT CV's from the junkyard or something similar before sending those to get cut.? I have another CV for the driver side and it is identical in length. EDIT: It is impossible to tell though how far the shaft is into the accompanying CV on the diff side. Is that fully compressed on the diff side? I ran back outside to check it and there is only one part of the CV that slides in and out, the ball bearing cage. The other part just rotates like a ball joint. Both sides had the pictures taken with the both shafts "clicked" into place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 Hmm. Okay! Well I took some photos of mine. Just the drivers side. I measured .245" clear from mounting surface to mounting surface. The LCA's are not adjusted, merely bolted on. The chamber is zero by looks and possibly positive (indicating a minimal amount of track). The angle of the LCAs is shown in the first photo. The other shows the .245" clear with the axles held parallel to the ground. Thus when compressed, more clearance would become present. I don't think I will have an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 Well the zeds I have seen with issues have the LCA level or they go up a little not like this so that might be why some are not having issues as their cars are not as low. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 I don't know why one would want to have their LCA's flat statically anyway though... That is just going to mean any compression would cause chamber change to be unfavorable. Or maybe I don't understand it properly? There is 1/4" clearance at this angle, if you were to go to completely flat, the clearance would be more, if compressed further back to approximately this angle but pointing up, then the clearance would be a bit less than it is now. Should be sufficient in any of those instances. Maybe the issue is with the billet stub axles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 All were RHD and 71 models that originally had the diff in forward location ie straight moustache bar. However both were upgraded to R200, both are road/race cars with 15" rims with 225/50/15. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 Interesting, my car is a 72 that had a rearward placement. I thought worse comes to worse I could gain some space by moving the differential 1" forward... well... on say a 16" long shaft that only equates to .0312" more of travel. Insignificant. :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted May 27, 2008 Author Share Posted May 27, 2008 There is definitely a difference in the space between the companion flange and CV axle. My car is so tight I cannot get the CV into place moving it straight down. I have to sideways around the outside before it will clear. I can't remember how my car was originaly with the old style moustache bar. I think it was a straight bar as well, but I thought that's how all r180's were. I thought about moving the diff forward an inch, but I wasn't sure how I was going to do it. Maybe some spacers on the back and modifying the front diff mount, but that may also require shortening the drive shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 Like, I said, moving it forward 1" will get you around .0312" more travel if I am not mistaken (on a 16" long shaft), which is insignificant. I am not sure how I would go about your issue. It may be a pain, but since your companion flanges appear to be billet, maybe you can have them milled down or ask Modern-Motorsports to replace them. Hmm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted May 27, 2008 Author Share Posted May 27, 2008 Like, I said, moving it forward 1" will get you around .0312" more travel if I am not mistaken (on a 16" long shaft), which is insignificant. I am not sure how I would go about your issue. It may be a pain, but since your companion flanges appear to be billet, maybe you can have them milled down or ask Modern-Motorsports to replace them. Hmm. The companion flanges are not what is hitting. It's the stub axle to the tip of the uncapped CV axle. I could probably grind a bit more than a mm off the end of the CV to get it to fit without hitting. I have already grinded about 2mm off the end of the stub axle, anymore than that and there is almost no thread sticking off the end of the nut. I think tonight I will take the shock off, reinstall the CV and check to see the clearance through its travel. If it looks too close I think I will take apart the CV and see what it's going to take to shorten it or if it gets to expensive I'll go for the aftermarket control arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FREDDYRENATO Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 Hi there ,getz , I have been looking for that left axle and I have not been lucky enough to find one , every thing is a special order so i decided to try something else , I took the left axle from the '86 300zx turbo ,took it apart and I grind almost 1/4" from the tip of the axle , than this morning I whent to te shop and installed the axle and it looked like it would not fit (still too long) but , I compress the suspenssion again and I was able to install and remove the axles with no problem , ones again I did not have the lock ring installed in the diff , and I have about 1/4" of movement ones every thing is bolted on , I am not going to install the loccking ring on this side because I want to have some clearance beetween diff and companion flanges ,1/4" clearence will be good and it will not put any pressure an the diff. hope this helps..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted May 28, 2008 Author Share Posted May 28, 2008 Freddy, I'm not so sure that is a good idea running without the locking ring. I assume you meant the snap ring. What about the other side of the ball bearing cage with the other locking ring? I thought about taking mines to a shop to be shortened, but I do not think it is possible. The axle tapers after the spline and cannot be resplined. I'll go price some axles out just to get an idea if this is going to be painful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FREDDYRENATO Posted May 28, 2008 Share Posted May 28, 2008 Getz: the locking ring that I am talking about is the one inside the diff not the snap ring at the end of the axle shaft, at the end of the shaft i grind material out and left just enough material to install the snap ring, wish I took pictures but I was in a hurry so i didn't take any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted May 28, 2008 Author Share Posted May 28, 2008 Getz: the locking ring that I am talking about is the one inside the diff not the snap ring at the end of the axle shaft, at the end of the shaft i grind material out and left just enough material to install the snap ring, wish I took pictures but I was in a hurry so i didn't take any. Okay, I think I know what you're talking about now. I assume it changed the distance the CV sits into the pumkin. Can you post a pic? I took some measurements and I can get away with grinding the tip of the CV that goes into the companion flange. It's about 6mm from the end of the snap ring groove to the axle tip, so I could probably grind about 4mm and leave 2mm to hold the snap ring, that sure beats a custom set of axles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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