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HybridZ

valves problem


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The car was doing ok before I adjusted the valves but after I adjusted the vavles(0.012 exhaust and 0.010 for intake) the car is terrible.Lost in power, stumbling at idle and when step on the gas. The only valve I had problem with was the first exhaust valve, the 14mm adjustment bolt won't turn.

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What did that valve's clearance end up being (the one you could not adjust)?

 

I did an adjustment on mine and had to do it 2 more times before it felt right and didn't clatter. I found that erring on the side of "too tight" on the gaps was better than "too wide". But I'll let a real Z expert weigh in on this - I've very much to learn :)

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I have no idea because I even tried 0.06 and it didn't fit. I think it's really tight. One thing for sure was if it's too tight you loosen the 14mm or if it's too loose then you tighten it, but how come for the last valve it's the opposite way of doing it. Is the first vavle(the one I'm having problem with) operates the same way? I'm at the point where I'm stripping the 14mm on the first exhuast valve becuase it just won't move! Is there a trick you guys know?

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how you know if my valve is burn or not. How would I burn the valve when it's already way out of adjustment already to begin with and it was running fine.What I want to know is how you loosen up the 14mm when it's stuck. I really can't move it at all.

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Did you loosen up the jam nut first(17mm)? I'm sure you did, but I've gotta make sure. I just did my first valve adjustment on my Z and it probably isn't perfect, but it runs better and quieter. My #1 exhaust valve was a bit tougher than the others, but it moved. All the adjusters worked the same way for me. Clockwise=looser clearance, counterclockwise=tighter clearance. A valve could get burnt by too tight a tolerance. The valve doesn't seat all the way and the burning fuel from the power stroke creeps past the seat creating massive heat in that area, hence the term "burnt valve". A compression test would be an easy first step in finding out. If that cylinder has low(or nonexistent) pressure, it's a good indicator of problems.

 

By the way, an old school Z expert told me to do the adjustment cold. He said after 5 minutes or so the head cools off enough to make the clearances go wacky. So the first few may be good, but after that it gets out of tolerance and is never really right. The cold clearances are .008 and .010. Food for thought...

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I did loosen the jam nut first but like I typed, the 14mm nut won't break loose at all. All my valves work the same way except for the last one where clockwise=tighter clearance...i don't know why.. So it's best to do it cold(.008 for intake and 0.10 for exhaust)

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I didn't have to take out the cam and all that stuff. I just pressed down on the valve and took out the rocker. The car is running like normal now but I sitll have one problem. Even with the socket I still couldn't break the exhaust valve #1 loose. I think I'm near stripping it. Is there a way to replace 14mm and the 17mm bolts by taking it completely out?

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