bryan01 Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 haven't posted in the fab/welding forum ever, but here goes i got a new welder, 240v/180a hobart, and now i have frame rails ... i was tired of borrowing and breaking/fixing breaking and fixing again a 140a one. oh and it's a )#*%^)#* to weld upside down ... i know the welds aren't the greatest in all places, but i can tell you w/o doubt that it's never going anywhere, here are some pics of the new rails (baddogz ... john delivered them personally, i live close by in CT apparently) ... i seamed some areas and stitched others. on the passenger side i replaced the entire floor last year, and it was really difficult to weld in the rail. on the driver side most of the stock rail was there and it was a lot easier to weld the new rail over it. and if you are concerned that the floor doesn't look completely welded, it's because i welded it from the inside way back when, not the underside ... those pics are in a previous album on the picture site. http://uncutwelshman.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=2250 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 please keep in mind IM trying to help, increase your welding skills, here NOT find fault ID suggest turning up the amps, or a differant type and dia of rod or wire speed or what ever you need to increase the heat, looking at this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan01 Posted June 9, 2008 Author Share Posted June 9, 2008 please keep in mind IM trying to help, increase your welding skills, here NOT find fault ID suggest turning up the amps, or a differant type and dia of rod or wire speed or what ever you need to increase the heat, looking at this. by all means, critique away ... i know i'm not the best welder ... especially upside down ... that side was done w/ the 140a welder that was cranked up ... it still should have been able to weld the metal, but it was struggling ... i went over some of the welding w/ the new welder but it was hard ... my old welds on the floors look pretty nasty too, but i never seem to have good surfaces ... either there's paint on it or i'm welding thru residual insulation or i'm trying to bridge a gap between 2 pieces of different thicknesses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 Well.. to be honest the welds look cold.. and dirty Did you wire brush the area and clean it off with acetone or soap and water before welding?! Also when you weld do you watch the puddle and keep a nice steady flow? Im just worried about penetration.. It doesnt matter how ugly a weld is as long as its penetrated and STRONG! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan01 Posted June 9, 2008 Author Share Posted June 9, 2008 Well.. to be honest the welds look cold.. and dirty Did you wire brush the area and clean it off with acetone or soap and water before welding?! Also when you weld do you watch the puddle and keep a nice steady flow? Im just worried about penetration.. It doesnt matter how ugly a weld is as long as its penetrated and STRONG! no cleaning with acetone or soap or water, i was more concerned with fitment (and the car is just dirty underneith, i'm not sure "cleaning" would be enough, removal of more metal in order to remove 35 years of grit would have probably been required) ... just grinding off as much undercoating that i could, lining up the frame rail the best i could (as close as i could get it) and going at it ... the 180a welder burned through the floor several times. i know this because insulation from the other side would start to drip down (i know, i should have removed all the interior insulation, but that would have taken way too long) ... when i welded the floors in with the 140a welder we would blow thru the metal and spend a lot of time fixing holes we had created ... and time was spent testing said welds (lots of jumping and banging and inspection), but beyond cutting it out and banging it til it breaks, there's nothing more i can do to test penetration, the welds arent at all pretty, but it would take a lot to break them it's hard to watch the puddle and keep a nice steady flow when you're trying not to get hit with dripping red-hot metal ... i made a few brackets for my dash install today and the welds looked 100x better, it makes all the world when the metal you are welding is the same thickness, is butted together nicely, doesnt have any coatings on it, and is thick. here's the best weld of the day (the vertical side) ... http://www.uncutwelshman.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=2264 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan01 Posted June 9, 2008 Author Share Posted June 9, 2008 looking back on it i think frame rail welding should be done on a rotisserie, not from under the car, but again, i'm learning ... i'm in a push to get everything "done" so that i can move again. i'm hoping to get the piping done within a week or 2 ... i'll have more pics of that, should be a lot cleaner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted June 12, 2008 Share Posted June 12, 2008 After sucessfully welding under my car for many hours it's definatly possible to get the job done with out a rotisserie. Looking at you work, your welds look cold and dirty. 1. Make sure your welder is getting proper power. Skinny old extension cords and bad outlets will reduce the amount of current going to the welder. With the proper power your welder should easily be able to burn holes right through 20-16 gauge metal. 2. Cleanliness is key. Make sure you remove all of the surrounding undercoating, paints, and seam sealers around the welding areas. Not only is that stuff extreemly toxic when its burns but it will contaminate the molten metal. Although the welds for the floors and SFC don't look pretty i'm sure they'l hold up. However, I would consider redoing your transmission mount ( looks like a 25DET tranny). I sure wouldn't want contamination on the welds supporting a trans and 250+ Ft/Lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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