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HybridZ

RB25det hunting for idle . .


Canadianz

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  • 2 weeks later...
All RB 02 sensors seem to be the same except for RB26.

 

..............

 

 

 

Except that's the picture of the factory Cat overheat sensor...

 

The O2 sensor is located right up near the engine, and it is the same for all RB25ET's at least (22690-83T10).

o2 sensor_thumb.jpg

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  • 4 months later...

Wow, sounds like we had the same problem. Any new info, is it all squared away now?

 

One of my mafs was connected wrong like yours and it was hunting and running very rich. After I fixed the wiring, it ran better but my plugs were all fouled up. That maf is running like the other, so I think it survived the faulty wiring.

 

I'm thinking the o2 sensors may be fouled as well since I ran it for a while at such a rich state. Now it's running slightly lean. I trust my fuel pump, but I did take off the aac once too, so I'll have to check for vacuum leaks as well.

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Hey, yeah we have the car running great now, it was in the end the MAF was incorrectly wired. Also we shot the car with a timing light and it was a bit retarded so we advanced it and it helped a ton too.

 

If I were you check first that your MAF's are clean and wired correctly. Next check for any boost leaks and make sure your vacuum lines are set up correctly.

We had a POS china blow off valve that was leaking too and caused some trouble.

Next make sure your FPR isn't set too high and that it has the correct vacuume reference too.

Finally check your O2 sensor.

 

A couple guys on this board mentioned to me that the MAFs are used when on boost. So if your AFR is okay under boost then that means they are functioning ok.

 

The other thing is make sure that your idle air control is wired correctly and has the correct hose/ vacuume line routing.

 

Good luck ! You'll track it down its just a matter of time

 

 

Chris

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Yeah, I wasn't sure how to check for vacuum leaks but I learned a new trick for it.

 

I'll definitely have to check my bov because it is generic, I don't think it is this problem but would be very inefficient if it were leaking as well. That's interesting about the mafs, I'll have to look into it.

 

BTW, you said you were looking for a way to read trouble codes earlier right? If you have the odb1 plug still in your harness (or you can buy one if you find the wires) you can get the nissan consult cable and the datascan software to not only read codes but troubleshoot, test, and somewhat tune from a laptop. I'm at the end of wiring everything and looked into getting the check engine light to work just the other day and found the cable on ebay for under $200.

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