Guest Anonymous Posted May 17, 2001 Share Posted May 17, 2001 Just chatting with a lady here at work, says her hubby has a early 70's Z in the garage, NO rust, mint interior, been sitting for a while.. White ext, black interior, and is willing to sell, as it's just taking up space... Mind you, I didn't want to get into this until later this year, and I was looking for a '76-'78... But man, if this car is as nice as she says... IIRC, The early Z's aren't as stiff, and more mods are required in the tunnel for the T-56, but really..will it be THAT much harder to build??? If I don't take it, I'll let everyone know in case someone needs a car to start their monster with.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted May 17, 2001 Share Posted May 17, 2001 I don't think it's much of a big deal to use a 240Z. If you're going to put mucho torque in it, it should have some stiffening if it's a 240Z or 280Z IMO. If it has no rust, you're that much better off. I like the looks, interior, and light weight of the 240Z, personally. I'd go for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 17, 2001 Share Posted May 17, 2001 The T56 requires a little clearancing around the bellhousing, and on the right (passenger) side near the reverse switch (not much if at all). The biggest problem is the JTR crossmember isn't narrow enough. Either you narrow the crossmember, or hammer in the floorboard a bit. If you have a heavy duty enough welder the former is more elegant, the later (as I did it) requires more brute strength and a BFH.. That said, the early one is still desirable because of its lighter weight and if you find one that sounds as choice as the one you describe at a good price, I'd grab it. Quick note, 70-71 did have the differential not in line with stub axles so while doing it you'd want to probably change to the R200 and correct mustache bars and mounts before getting to the driveline work. JTR described this better than I'm doing in the conversion manual. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 18, 2001 Share Posted May 18, 2001 Rich, I'm in NC near Charlotte. If you don't want this car, let me know. I can be there this weekend with a trailer and cash. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 18, 2001 Share Posted May 18, 2001 Lone, I love reading your conversion page.. You and I would make a DEADLY team... I'm v. good in all the areas you hate, and your'e good in the areas I can't do! I had planned on a Mike Kelly type motor, so the stiffening was a given.. Full cage was planned.. and the R200 was a no-brainer! I wonder why JTR makes the crossmember so wierd? Narrowing it seems to be the solution, so why don't they just do it?? RBMFH is more than likely going to be my method... I was a helicopter repairman, so I have QUITE an assortment of hammers.. Mark, gee, thanks for the pressure... Now I KNOW if I don't take it, someone else will... nothing like adding some pressure to my decision... If it's as nice as she says it is, I will more than likely buy it and put it away in the garage until I am ready to start the project... Might even drive it some! Thanks again.. I can't WAIT to start this, but alas, I have some sport bike racing to get into first... Too many hobbies, not enough cash... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted May 18, 2001 Share Posted May 18, 2001 Took me over 6 months to find my 71 240z. If you find one now, definately grab it. BTW, I paid $2000 for mine knoing it had rust - didn't want to wait another 6 months. Kept looking after I bought - just to either confirm my purchase or make myself feel bad. Didn't find anything else at all. I don't think these cars are too common in this area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted May 18, 2001 Share Posted May 18, 2001 You didn't mention how much and what year but if it was the 1st generation Z with no rust and mint interior as she says, I'd jump on it! Don't know if I'd do a conversion on one of those older ones though, just because of the value of the car. I myself have a '73 which I don't think is considered a classic. So I did the Mikelley route too, 383CID, T56, soon to be installed R230. Like Lone said, get the BFH! No major work is needed really. I would recommend the subframe connectors and a rollcage though. Keep us posted! Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted May 18, 2001 Share Posted May 18, 2001 Trans clearance is easy - cut out the stock mounts with an air chisel, bang the firewall just a touch on one side, slide it in. I had some clearance issues near the reverse switch but rather than banging I slipped a crowbar in there and pressed it away - if you put the pigtail on first this isn't even needed. I would suggest trimming one of the little spikes on that side - don't know why the tans has those! Lastly, the trans mount... JTR's mount is MUCH more beefy than it needs to be. I had mine sectioned and wleded and the guy doing the work wondered what in this worled they were thinking! Took a chop saw to cut it and a good welder to finish it. If you could get the humps up higher that would be better too, I hope mine works out okay - I'm not quite there yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted May 19, 2001 Share Posted May 19, 2001 If the price is right and you can swing it, and it is as nice as she said, GO FOR IT. On the trans crossmember - I'd just design a different one. The JTR on is not as conducive to exhaust routing as it could be. If the humps on either side of the trans were higher, I would have more clearance in that area, which is my lowest point. I'd get some sched 40 black pipe, some of the bar stock they use, and make one with taller "humps". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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