SidWell Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 This is hopefully the last location configuration for my crank angle sensor. The inside bottom of the pulley was turned smooth to provide a true base for the code wheel mount. The back side of the pulley was drilled and counter sunk. The holes for the code wheel mount were drilled and tapped and mated to the pulley. Once the code wheel / pulley was bolted into place on the crank shaft, the variable reluctance sensor mount was fabricated. I have good clearances on all sides for the belts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Interesting way to mount the wheel to the damper. Nice work. Just be sure that the sensor bracket is rigid enough so that it doesn't move around at high RPM. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest znow white Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 i just got my wheel and edis setup to run with ms the wheel i believe its aluminum zya if i recall you said you were gonna weld yours to your harmonic balancer? is yours steel? now pertaining to this topic i like the way you mounted your wheel did you have to re balance this ? because this is is spinning at very high rpms just a tad more can throw the balance of motor .. i might do it your way though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 No, the Ford wheel is steel of some sort. It must be a ferrous metal for the VR sensor to work. You can't weld it to the stock cast damper. Not sure why, but I'm not a welder. Yes, you should re-balance the entire assembly. I made up a wheel recently and mounted the wheel to the two threaded holes on a Powerforce damper. Use Locktite of some sort so it can't loosen up. Then have it balanced at your local machine shop. My machinist charged me $25 to hone the hole in the damper to fit the crankshaft (see other threads), and then balance the whole thing. He had to drill out a little metal with a 1/2" drill to get it balanced, so it wasn't too far out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SidWell Posted July 12, 2008 Author Share Posted July 12, 2008 did you have to re balance this ? because this is is spinning at very high rpms just a tad more can throw the balance of motor My car has not left the garage yet. Somewhere along the line, it will indeed be balanced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted July 13, 2008 Share Posted July 13, 2008 the only problem i see is that bending the bracket is the only way to adjust clearance of the sensor. you may want to cut off the sensor mount portion (it looks like your heat was way too high anyway on the welds), and then get a slotted piece of metal and reweld it there. I like the way you mounted it to the damper, creative! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SidWell Posted July 13, 2008 Author Share Posted July 13, 2008 The bracket has slots for adjusting the sensor closer or further from the wheel. I am still trying to figure out the best location for a third mounting point. The bracket is not as solid as it should be for street driving. As for the welding, the mig welder was a Christmas present. Until last January I had not welded an inch in my life. I have no formal instruction in welding. I am a better grinder than I am a welder. I will turn the heat down the next time. I like the way you mounted it to the damper, creative! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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