Guest Anonymous Posted August 16, 2001 Share Posted August 16, 2001 Hello gang. I'm new to this site. Along with my 71 Z I also own a '91 Infiniti Q45. IMO the R230 swap would be a better swap just because you can find these things for under $200 around my neck of the woods (Boston). I recently helped a buddy install an R230 from a wrecked '92 Q45 with 60k miles to a '94 240SX and the swap was so easy it was almost bolt-on and the diff alone only took a $190 bite out of his wallet. As for as weight goes, it was a bit heftier than the stock diff on the 240SX. I'd say a good 20 lbs. or so heavier, but again this isn't exact. I'm not sure how it compares to an R200 but I can't say there is a big difference. As far as strength goes, this thing is rock solid. I know a shop in Orlando, FL that runs 600hp supercharged Q45's on the R230 diff. And these cars weigh well over 4,000 lbs! Concerning the gears, keep in mind this diff was built for a 4-speed automatic. If i had the time and the know-how I'd do this swap in a heartbeat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted August 17, 2001 Share Posted August 17, 2001 yeah, i guess the area where you live would have an effect on which way you would go with the diff, over here i think they are very hard to find, our junkyards usually dont have such nice parts, and the ones that do want way too much for them, but the 280z and zxs own our junkyards, and r200s grow on trees.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted August 17, 2001 Share Posted August 17, 2001 Humph, under the car tonight pulling the driveshaft bolts I noticed that the LSD I've got may be a bit weak. I could somewhat easily turn one wheel while holding the opther - this is a clutch LSD too. I heard some clunking on my few drives, found a suspension part a tad loose but the clunk sounded more like the diff - we'll see. The R230's LSD is pretty bulletproof, if a kit is developed I may be pretty interested. With the premium the R200 brings I could probably recoup a decent amount. That's down the road though, have to see if she'll spin both tires before I get real concerned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 17, 2001 Share Posted August 17, 2001 Jim, it should take about 25 ft lbs to turn one tire relative to the other, if the LSD is still within spec preload. If you had one tire blocked or sitting on something so it wouldn't turn, but the other on free, with a 25" tire, you'd have about a foot moment arm. So it'd take about 25 lbs of force applied in the tangential direction (act like you're the road trying to spin the tire) to make it brake loose. If it takes less, then the LSD is somewhat loose. Don't forget brake pad drag will make it harder to turn that tire also. Clutch LSDs do burn up (right Scottie ? ). The parts aren't CRAZY expensive, but a new set of clutch parts is over $100, more like $200, I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted August 17, 2001 Share Posted August 17, 2001 I'm not sweating it at this point Pete. I had more than a 1 foot moment arm too probably. It was in the air, I was on my back, I grabbed the tires and pushed on them a bit is all. Unless I spin one wheel on the street I'll not worry. The viscous LSD just sounds so nice not having to have clutches. Plus you can swap to different fluids to change the effect too I think. At this point if it's not broke it's not being "fixed", unfortunatly I've got some broke stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 17, 2001 Share Posted August 17, 2001 Yeah, I'd just drive it too. If you do need another diff, maybe an R230 viscous . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest needwaymorespeed Posted August 18, 2001 Share Posted August 18, 2001 I am working on a way to put the complete rearend from a Q45 or 90-96 TT300Z into my 240Z. My plan is to use the R230 diff,the cv shafts-inboard and outboard-and the vented rotors and twin spot calipers. The outboard cv joint is splined and has A companion flange that couples to it.The companion flange has the wheel studs on it and is pressed into a bearing that resides into a steel hub this steel hub-the carrier- has 5 holes that are tapped on the back side-these 5 holes are used to attach this carrier to a aluminum knuckle that has 5 attachment points on it for the struts and control arms on the Q-45 or TT300 z. The carrier hub also has the backing plate and little rear shoes-e brake-attached to it. So far I have taken the aluminum knuckles and cut them down ,cut the attachment points off of them and milled them flat ,I now have two rectangle pieces of aluminum with a large hole in the center of them to allow the cv joint to pass through and two dust shields around these large holes. there is also 5 other holes in these alluminum pieces that allow it to be bolted back onto the steel carrier . The plan is to take a piece of chrome moly 5/16 steel and install it in front of these aluminum pieces-diff side- attach the stock 240 z struts and lower control arm to this steel plate and wala custom rear hub! The dimensions on the outboard cv shaft and companion falnge engagement will remain the same-the reason for all the work on the alluminum knuckle pieces-no milling was done on the outbord side of these pieces I have taken all of the measurements for lower control arm attaching points and strut locations and have made up a jig for both sides of the car. I have the steel,just need to cut it out -plasma or laser cut-and fab it up. my rear strut tubes are already cut off of my 240 z hubs. currently agonizing over how to attach the lower control arms ,the stock datsun method with spindle pins and locking shafts or to go ahead and fab up some lower control arme with hiem joints at the outbord end if I go with the heim joints, ill use triangle pieces with a hole in them welde to the steel plate if i go the stock situp then itll require some chrome moly tubing. Other things left to do 1- have the rear cv joints cut down and resplined 2-drill out r200 mustache for wider spacing of two bolts on the rear diff cover of r-230 3-make new front mount for r230 diff I think IM NUTS!!!! but hopefully the results will be worth the effort -5 stud rear -R230 diff viscous- ring and pinnion gears bigger than a ford 9 in.3.54 gears -CV jointed shafts-VERY LARGE JOINTS- simmialar to the porsche 930 -vented rear discs twin spot calipers -elimination of weaker 240 z stub axles and companion flanges- Someone was wondering about cost of this figure $600 to a $1000 for parts and steel and resplining of shafts depends how good you are in the wrecking yards. Alot of time and the custom fabbing of the new rear plate to attach the hub ,strut and lower control arm onto. If I ever finish this I might consider making some additional pieces or turning it over to someone else to market. Curtis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted August 19, 2001 Share Posted August 19, 2001 Hrm, $600-$1000 for a total bolt-in isn't actually too hateful if it's bulletproof. 3.54 gears doesn't sound too bad, I thought they were deeper. Need to tinker with some numbers and see what might work best for a T56 without starting off in second Any opinions? Yeah, that's a chunk of change and more than an R200 but if it includes the diff and bolts in that's worth it not having to worry about clutches and breakage. Honestly not sure I'd want some thing that custom but it certainly does eliminate the stubs doesn't it? If there's a consensus on gear ratio maybe I'll try to hunt one up. I've got a spare moustache bar and feel somewhat familiar with the rear suspension now (lol). Give me something to tinker with and maybe between all of us we can come up with something reasonable for others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 23, 2001 Share Posted August 23, 2001 Andy, Andy, Tell me about your LT1 swap. What year? how did the fuel injection wiring match up? tell me more. I'm doing the research for the same. Foster [ August 23, 2001: Message edited by: 280 NOTPD4 ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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