Scottie-GNZ Posted August 18, 2001 Share Posted August 18, 2001 Anyone using this trans in a non-computer controlled car? How did you resolve the OD problem? BTW, asking for a friend, so no comments, PLEASE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted August 18, 2001 Share Posted August 18, 2001 Places like Jet Performance sell add on computer modules for the 4L80Es, and I believe also for the 4L60E. I know that, for the 4L80E anyway, the add on module is about $1500.00, so it makes this tranny very expensive!! Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 18, 2001 Share Posted August 18, 2001 Sallee-Chevrolet has a GM computer they sell for it: http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Transmission_Control_Modules/4L60E_4L80E.html Priced at $895! : http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/PriceList/group3.900-9.750,and_Gauges.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted August 19, 2001 Share Posted August 19, 2001 Pete, I think that's the trans in the Impalla SS, yes? If so that computer had better be programmable by the end user. In the Impalla if you get off the gas in the top of first from part throttle it shifts into second VERY hard and shocks the whole car. I've been in two Impallas that have done this and have heard of others doing it too. If it did that in a Z you'd hate it - bad enough in a 3 ton Impalla! Hopefully the programming is better in that module. I've been tempted to get the LT1-Edit software just to fix this... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 19, 2001 Share Posted August 19, 2001 BLKMGK, I dunno what's in the Impala SS. Read the page I linked above - it's programmable with a laptop - sounds sweet. It better be for 900 clams! I have a bud with a 355/2004R in a 240Z. I HATE the way that thing shifts - you never know when it will shift, and when you do get out of it just a bit, it bangs into the second (from 1st) and you'd think the car was coming in half. Of course, I don't know how to drive it right (not my car) and it might not be adjusted right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted August 19, 2001 Share Posted August 19, 2001 From the conversations I've had with the tranny guys, the 200 and 700 OD units are VERY sensitive to TV cable adjustment. If not set perfectly, with the correct amount of travel (ie correct arc at the carb linkage), they will never shift correctly....just what I've been told by the 'experts'. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted August 19, 2001 Author Share Posted August 19, 2001 Jim, Tim is dead on about the TV cable adjustment. here is an excerpt from the Buick forum: Theory of Operation The T.V. cable used on the 200-4R transmission controls line pressure, shift point, shift feel, part throttle downshifts and detent downshifts. The T.V. cable operates the throttle valve lever and bracket assembly inside the valve body. The Throttle Valve Lever and Bracket Assembly serve two basic functions: -To transfer the throttle lever movement to the T.V. plunger in the control valve assembly. This causes T.V. pressure and line pressure to increase according to engine throttle openings and controls part throttle and detent downshifts. -To prevent the transmission from operating at low (idle) pressures, if the T.V. cable should break or become disconnected. If the cable is not connected or broken, the T.V. lifter rod will not move from its normal position which holds the T.V. exhaust check ball off its seat. The T.V. lifter rod will drop down to allow the T.V. exhaust ball to seat only if the cable is broken, disconnected or out of adjustment. With the transmission pan removed, pull down on the T.V. exhaust valve lifter rod and the spring should return to rod to its normal up position. If the throttle valve lever and bracket assembly or lifter rod binds or sticks so that the T.V. lifter rod cannot lift the exhaust ball off its seat, high line pressures and delayed upshifts will result (Note that this is what we will try to accomplish, tighter shifts). The T.V. lifter rod must not be bent or it will not function correctly. Adjustment Procedure On the driver's side of the intake plenum is a bracket holding 2 or 3 cables:the Accelerator cable, T.V. cable, and if you have Cruise, the cruise controlcable. The T.V. cable has "ridges" on the cable housing and routes behind and down the engine to the passenger side of the transmission. Note the metal Brass colored, "D-shaped" tab in the center of the bracket, this is the readjustment tab. Take note of the T.V. cable position (number of exposed ridges). With the engine off, depress and hold in the readjustment tab. Pull the cable housing towards the firewall 3 or 4 clicks and release the readjustment tab. While you watch the cable housing travel, have someone push the accelerator pedal to WOT. (Yes you can rotate the throttle lever by hand but by using someone's foot you are duplicating the actual throttle movement achieved while driving the car.) The cable housing will "ratchet" forward towards the radiator. This is the "GM recommended" setting. If your T.V. cable was out of adjustment, the number of exposed ridges will have changed. As a benefit to those desiring firmer shifts, you can attain higher shift points by moving the T.V. cable back towards the firewall one more "click". Try this and see if the cable housing will not ratchet back out when you press the accelerator to WOT. A worn out cable housing or adjustment mechanism may only let you go to the "GM recommended" setting. You should also know that by delaying shifts on a transmission whose clutches are already "shot", this will accelerate the deterioration of the transmission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jens Posted August 31, 2001 Share Posted August 31, 2001 A th700r4 with a 85$ electolock from johns car would be a lot cheaper http://www.johnscars.com/zcar/zcar.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted August 31, 2001 Share Posted August 31, 2001 quote: Originally posted by jens: A th700r4 with a 85$ electolock from johns car would be a lot cheaper http://www.johnscars.com/zcar/zcar.htm For simple convertor lockup you can wire your own for <$10 if you want. What Scotties asking about though requires a 8-900US TCI control unit, $400 speedo electrical signal unit, and a $50 speedo wiring harness (I talked to TCI yesterday, feel free to drop them an email, they responded by phone within an hour!) www.tciauto.com 700R4 is very sensitive to TV adjustment...been living with that for 5-6 yrs which was why I'd looked into a 4L60E. 700R4 is still a fine trans, initial setup can be a bit tricky if you're picky about shiftpoints and quality of shift, lots in archives on this as some members posted some FINE firsthand info on the governor kits/parts/influence. ahh, here's the PN's 377000 control unit $900 retail (cheaper elsewhere etc) 377302 speedo wiring harness (for newer clip style/not threaded pre '72 style) $50 377300 speedo control unit $400 [ August 31, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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