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280 zx and CV axles


labrat

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I have an 81 model 280ZX non turbo, and i'm having problems busting ujoints on the half shafts. I've busted two of the autozone "Heavy Duty" ones, and all that work is pissing me off. Anyone tried to put the 280 ZXT cv axles in this type of car? Any idea what i would need? Or am I blazing a new trail? There are many Z's at the local salvage yards, and this is definitely a required mod... Thanks!

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Well, i busted both of them doing one leggers around wet corners then suddenly hitting dry pavement... BANG! flop flop flop.... anyway, so all i need are the stubs in the diff and the cv axles themselves? The wheel end will bolt right up to the flange? I checked the archives, and this is my understanding, but i want to make sure. I'll hit the salvage yard next weekend, i guess... Thanks for all the help!

 

Bill

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You need the flange on your hub side that the halfshafts bolt to, come of us call it the companion flange (hub flange is on outside that wheel bolts to). You may need to swap the hub and comp. flange from a turbo car (and keep the inner collars paired with them). If you do bearings at the same time you either need a press/bearing splitter or a machine shop to do that for you. Be sure to grab all the comp. flange bolts with the CV's (6 per side with washers and nuts). Your new CV shafts just pop right into your diff, no extra flange/connection their like on UJ shafts.

 

The comp.flange is held on by a large nut torqued to some 200ft-lbs and often more.....take breaker bars if you can't get an impact on it......for the hub flange a slide hammer is best to remove it.....with the slide hammer it'll pop out in seconds once that nut is undone.....without the slide hammer it's a bear....you can pound on a nut on the end of the stub axle but you'll likely wreck the nut so slide hammer is truly best.

 

PS might I suggest avoiding burnouts on wet pavement leading to possibly dry pavement...its shock loads like that which are hard on the whole drivetrain....trannies/diffs/shafts....one reason auto's can be friendlier on driveline is from a dragstart you can 'preload' the drivetrain so it doesn't see the same shock.

 

[ September 16, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

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Thanks for straightening me out on that one, ross, just with all the talk of companion flanges and hub flanges, it sounded like they were two different parts... I guess someone just needed to break it down for me. Anyone know what the necessary parts should run me at a salvage yard? I just don't wanna get burned. Thanks a million for all the assistance so far!

 

Bill

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Just another word of warning, spinning one tire hard like that is extremely hard on side gears, spider gears and the spider cross shaft or "pin". It tends to curve the teeth in only one direction which makes differentiation the opposite way difficult or impossible and will pit the gear face as well as groove the spider pin increasing gear clearance. This will cause differential failure sooner rather than later. Boom.

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