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r180/r200 swap question


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I just picked up a 1978 r200 3.54 open rear end. I am swapping it into a 1971 240z with r180 rear end.

 

Question as to wether the half shafts from 78 r200 can be used or do I need to reuse the stock half shafts. Also the mustache bar I purchased has old rotten bushings, I tried to remove but to no avail. What gives do I need to have them pressed out at a shop?

The guy I bought the rear end from gave me new replacement sleeves.

 

Is there anything else I should know of, any hints etc.. Thanks in advance for any help or advice anyone would care to give.

 

Mike icon_confused.gif

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Hey Mike

I also had trouble removing the rubber from mine. I cut the top off with a band saw, then wedged a big screwdriver in the crack to enlarge the loop. Then drove the bushing out. I have since heard you can just use a cutting torch to burn the bushing out. Also the mustach bar installs backwards compared to the R 180 bar. Inother words the bar ends up about 1" farther back. icon_rolleyes.gifThe R200 is about 1" longer than the R180.

 

[ September 17, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

 

[ September 17, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

 

[ September 17, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

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Lone star one, You said the r200 is 1" longer so this means I have to have the drive shaft cut again. Great this is only the third time icon_mad.gif Oh well, could be worse. Thanks for the imput. Pete you mentioned urathane bushings, would you recommend them over stock,the set the guy gave well im not sure if they are I'll have to check. I guess I should go urathane as everything else is already.

 

Thanks Mike

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I'd recommend them for two reasons:

 

1) it's easier to remove the rubber and inner sleeve (with a torch) and leave the outer sleeve in place, clean it out, and install the urethane bushings, then to put the new OE bushing in.

 

2) The urethane ones are stiffer, can be easily shortened (on top) to raise the back of the diff to get away from driveshaft u-joint vibrations, and the OE ones will tear and wear out, causing alot of vibration and noise, if you launch the car hard alot with lots of torque.

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I don't think you'll have to mess with the drive shaft. The R200 will mount 1" farther back when you install the R200 mustash bar. The R180 bar mounted to the front side of those flat metal support brackets. The R200 mustach bar mounts on the back side of those metal support brackets. I hope I'm not confusing you. Call if you have any questions. 289-5889 icon_cool.gif

 

[ September 18, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

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I think you do have to have a longer driveshaft, IF your car is what, pre-72? I had thought that the set-back diff thing was a difference between R200 and R180, but someone corrected me recently. The diffs were mounted farther back, starting in 72. SO if you have a 70 or 71 240, then when you switch to the R200 and the R200 mustache bar (and curved rear transverse crosspiece), then your driveshaft will have to be longer.

 

The key is that curved rear piece, the one that joins the rear arms and caps off the rear arm bushings. If you already have that, then your diveshaft length is fine.

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well i have a 71 240z and a friend of mine as well, he put his 390 R200 diff on without messing with the driveshaft. he even used the same halfshafts from the r180, all he changed was the rear moustache bar that goes with the r200 and thats it. hope this helps

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It is possible to install the R200 in the less desireable, early R180 position. If you install the mustache bar with the ears (rings, whatever you want to call them) towards the rear of the car, then the diff will be in approximately the same position and the shorter driveshaft can be used. This causes the halfshafts to be at an angle in the horizontal plane however.

 

If you mount the diff with the mustache bar in the later, 72 and up, position, with the rings towards the front of the car, then the diff will be pulled back by an inch and a half or so and the shafts will be straight, that is, you could draw a line between the center of the hubs and the shafts would lie along that line.

 

You have to use the curved rear piece (the straight one would hit the diff cover) and a longer driveshaft in this second configuration. The R200 mustache bar has a bend in it - merely flipping the R180 mustache bar around (rings forward), would move the diff too far back.

 

The JTR manual has illustrative photos on pages 6-4 and 6-5 (seventh edition).

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Well crap the bushings the guy gave to me with mustache bar are oem. Not one local shop has urathane bushings, called and ordered fron msa. 3 to 5 days to get bushings icon_mad.gif Oh well one more delay.

 

What can I say im not the most patient person in the world. Guess I need to work on that icon_biggrin.gif Thanks guys for the info on going urathane and saving me from having to cut bushing sleeves.

Mike

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I'm not sure what engine your car has, but if you are doing a JTR swap, you will want to cut down the top bushing to raise the rear of the diff to alleviate haflshaft u-joint angles under squat and to get better u-joint angles (to avoid vibrations and wear) on the driveshaft u-joints. I've documented this stuff at:

http://members.home.net/pparaska/drivelinemods.htm

 

Good luck,

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