Lighft01 Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 Trying to finish up the wiring on my LS6 swap. I am using an LS1 alternator with the F-body bracket because the alternator on a corvette will not fit when its in the top position. Didnt find this out until i went to stab the motor. Hopefully for anyone swapping an LS6 this helps you out. Onto my question. For those of you that have done the swap. What did you do with the alternor charging wire. The stock setup runs from the alternator to the 60 amp fusible link. I have already done the maxi fuse upgrade so mine was running to a 60 amp fuse. If you extend that wire all the way around the engine bay to the alternator, will it hold that many amps (110) i think it is for the f-body alternator. I mean will it not get too hot and melt with that much current running all the length of wire? What gauge wire would your potentially want to upgrade to to cover that distance? Also for those of you still running fusible links, do you not burn up fusible links all the time? My plan was to just run the charging wire from the alternator directly to the + post on the battery. I think the last f-body i saw the charging wire ran to a fuseblock and then on to the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted July 18, 2008 Share Posted July 18, 2008 On my rx7 I ended up with a similiar problem. I ran the charging wire from the alternator which is on the pssgr side over the fuse on the driver side, then back to the battery on the pssgr side. A lot of extra wire. I used two larger wires in parallel, don't remember what gauge they are. A single one of them is as big as the original charging wire on the rx7. I figured that gave me double the capacity of the origianl rx7 which probably only supported a 55-65 amp alternator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdeezs Posted July 19, 2008 Share Posted July 19, 2008 I ran my main alt wire in between the oil pan and crossmember direct to the starter post....the starter post is hooked up directly to the battery. No fuses or fusable links and short power wires. This setup has been working well for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColtGT4g63 Posted July 19, 2008 Share Posted July 19, 2008 I ran my main alt wire in between the oil pan and crossmember direct to the starter post....the starter post is hooked up directly to the battery. No fuses or fusable links and short power wires. This setup has been working well for me. This is exactly what I am doing as well, without any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lighft01 Posted July 23, 2008 Author Share Posted July 23, 2008 You guys are more help than the chevy guys, nobody could answer my questions on some other forums. Thanks for the info hopefully i can get her running soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
averynisbet Posted September 12, 2008 Share Posted September 12, 2008 Use at least 8 gauge wire. A fuse would be nice but you should run a 100amper if its for the GM one wire type stuff. Two wires in parallel is great too. The fatter and shorter the wire the less voltage drop you have. You can measure your voltage drop by putting the voltage meter across the wire. Red test lead at the alternator + black at fusebox/battery positive while running. Running the alternator straight to the battery is not the best but will work. It should be run to the fuse box or to where most of your loads are connected. This will give the one wire alternator a better view of the load and it will regulate better. If you run three wire you should put the sense at the point where most of the loads are. The positive can then goto the battery and you will be fine. Check out this page for more info. http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire3.shtml -Avery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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