Jump to content
HybridZ

l28e->l28et conversion parts list? AND ECU Options


DMN

Recommended Posts

Hello,

 

My grandpa is giving me his NA 81 or 2 280zx which is completely restored and rarely driven aka low milage, I love the car but i wanna give it a bit more gettiup and i love the sound of a turbo (before i got this i was planning out a 240sx sr20det)...

 

3 questions

 

1) what are all the parts i need to change the NA to a Turbo ( I know the obvious turbo,manifold, turbo harness)

 

2) What ECU's can i use because i know when i change to turbo its gonna need a new one, and would the z31 ECU be the best option due to its increased tunability (and the need to a good tune when running a turbo on a higher compression)..The ECU options is really the thing that confuses me the most...

 

3) what WHP and torque levels can i expect with 6-8 psi on the stock t3 turbo w/ flat top pistons

 

Thank you for taking your time to answer me

 

-Colin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do a search for l28et swap or turbo swap, this question has been asked before.

 

Will you be running an intercooler, if so you wont need a j pipe.

 

Are you running the stock p79?

 

As for power levels, 6-8 psi seems to be the stock boost for the turbo L28et, so with flat tops youd be looking at a LITTLE more power at the low end off boost, no sure what it will do for the rest of the rpm range.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes i plan on running the stock head with the flat pistons for now but i also intend on getting a 2mm headgasket to lower the compression a bit, also know I will be running a nice big intercooler and bov for the setup but what i wanted to know was what i needed to get it to run, i heard something about getting a distrubitor from the turboed one and igiter its those parts that i need a good list of

 

and with a 2mmheadgasket what boost level do you think i can run this setup at safely?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For actual parts there are a few different ways to go.

 

You can use all OEM L28ET parts, intake manifold, injectors, exhaust manifold, turbo, down pipe, J-pipe, and all the little related parts like the Oil pressure sender adaptor/T-fitting. Electronic parts I will cover in a minute. These have been proven to work, and work reliably, hell there were thousands of these cars made, and many of them with proper care and maintenace have lived a very long and reliable life. You can use some f he OEM parts, and mix in others, like many people do, they add an FMIC, and a BOV, to help keep the intake temps down and reduce any possible turbo stall issues that may come up, or at least reduce the chances. I'm sure some people do it for the sound too.

You can go all out with all custom parts, custom manifold(s), custom piping, custom fuel system, etc.

You can be anywhere inbetween.

Myself, I'm using a stock L28ET exhaust manifold, and cam cover. My intake manifold is an N47 EGR/non-webbed that I'm cleaning up and do a very little bit of internal work to. The turbo I'm using is from a 6.5L turbo diesel GM, took a bit of work to make that fit. IC will be a custom deal where I'm starting with two Ford Turbocoupe IC cores, exhaust and all cold side piping will be custom. The only parts of the original fuel system I'm using are the tank and feed line that will be seeing duties as the new return line. This is just one example, there ae many more on this site, in all different variations.

 

As far as electronic controls there are a few options:

OEM, this will require the turbo engine harness from what I read, the turbo ECU and the turbo AFM, since it's calibrated diferently than the N/A version and has an extra switch IIRC. Again this has proven to work and be quite reliable, especially at stock boost/power levels.

A lot of people use MegaSquirt with much success, read through the Mega Squirt tuning forum for more details on that.

If you realy wanted to could get into many of the more expensive aftermarket engine control systems out there, like Haltech, AEM, FAST, Big Stuff 3, SDS, Holley Projection, Accell DFI, and many more. These are costly options but they are there, and each system will offer different advantages and compromises.

Myself I'm using a GM (service number 1227749) ECM, with a custom hacked code ($59 www.code59.org) that extends the original fueling and spark tables along with 3 BAR MAP sensor support.

 

You have to look at all or most of the options and then decided with way is best for you. If this is your first dive into something like this and it sounds that way, you may be more comfortable swapping in all OEM L28ET parts, to get an understanding of what parts are needed and even a little bit of why. This will give you a good base to start from and then modify or change parts out from there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The easiest way to add a turbo would be to install the following:

turbo exhaust manifold

stock turbo, wastegate, and down pipe

oil feed line and oil tee at oil sender

oil pan and drain line from turbo engine

stock J-pipe

bell engineering FMU for fuel enrichment (225.00 new). This allows you to use the stock efi system.

 

other things to do:

lock out the mechanical distributor advance by filling advance slots with rtv.

set timing to 20 degrees

set fmu to increase fuel pressure to 60 psi at 7 psi of boost.

relocate the pcv valve or put in a 90 degree fitting

 

Should make around 185hp without an ic and 200 to 210 with a good ic. That is enough to run a mid 14 second run at 96 mph with 185hp or a 14 flat at 100 mph with the IC.

 

you could do the whole job for 300.00 using used turbo parts and a new fmu. However, a megasquirt system would make it much nicer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 more questions

 

If I get megasquirt can i use the NA ecu and harness and the megasquirt EFI to run the turbo or what

 

and how much wHp could i get with megasquirt running safe boost with the flat top pistons you your opinion

(best tune)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 more questions

 

If I get megasquirt can i use the NA ecu and harness and the megasquirt EFI to run the turbo or what

 

Yes, you can start with the N/A harness, when using the MS, since the harness will get modified anyway.

 

From what I see most people go to SD (Speed Density) when using the MS. This would eliminate the AFM. It would also be best to swap to a throttle position sensor, as opposed to the throttle position switch that L6 uses. Using the position sensor, you will have control over many different ranges of throttle position instead of just idle and WOT parameters of the original position switch.

 

With the MS you would be able to add ECM controlled boost, if you wanted with the use of a GM boost control solenoid, along with a LOT of different options along the way.

 

If I were in your shoes, I'd likely go MS.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The easiest way to add a turbo would be to install the following:

turbo exhaust manifold

stock turbo, wastegate, and down pipe

oil feed line and oil tee at oil sender

oil pan and drain line from turbo engine

stock J-pipe

bell engineering FMU for fuel enrichment (225.00 new). This allows you to use the stock efi system.

 

other things to do:

lock out the mechanical distributor advance by filling advance slots with rtv.

set timing to 20 degrees

set fmu to increase fuel pressure to 60 psi at 7 psi of boost.

relocate the pcv valve or put in a 90 degree fitting

 

Should make around 185hp without an ic and 200 to 210 with a good ic. That is enough to run a mid 14 second run at 96 mph with 185hp or a 14 flat at 100 mph with the IC.

 

you could do the whole job for 300.00 using used turbo parts and a new fmu. However, a megasquirt system would make it much nicer.

 

Whats the FMU? Fuel management unit?? Does this replace the need for the turbo ecu which would have increased the fuel?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FMU's work with the stock efi system. It enriches the fuel mixture by rising fuel pressure during boost. It is a very simple solution and works OK to about 7 or 8 psi of boost. I have mine working up to 14 psi but I don't recommend it.

 

Much better to use megasquirt or something like that. Also, ignition timing control is very important for an efi system (don't get one without it).

 

Don't use an old harness. That wire is 30 years old! Not a big deal to change it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...