evildky Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 ok I am running MSE on my VG30ET, had an issue which turned out to the the trigger was set to inverted, turned iversion off and worked like a charm, did little tuning had the car idling like a champ, suddenly it sputered and died, and wouldn't restart, I check the settings the spark is inverted again? how do the settings change themselves? anyone ever had this issue? I shanged it back and it's OK so far, but hate the thought if this happeneing again say duing an autocross BTW it's the VG distributor with the L28 trigger wheel and an HEI module, basically the same as moby's L28ET setup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cramer Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 Pretty rare - it could be a sign of corrupted firmware, but it may have been a setting that wasn't burned permanently to the ECU and so it didn't stick when it was powered up again. It should've stuck if you clicked "Burn to ECU" when you set it, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted August 8, 2008 Author Share Posted August 8, 2008 it was burned, I am sure i had it set right the first time which is why it took me so long to find the problem, this is the ECU and car I ran at the GRM challenge last year, I had a problem with my thermal values and when I went to curn new values with easytherm I accidentally had the wrong firmware selected, wiped out the ecu and had to start from scratch, and the old MSNS code isn;'s as easy to find anymore, although I found it I decided to upgrade I upgrade to the 029y4 code, still had a heck of a time getting it to load the thermal values, it kept giving me boot load errors, all while trying to make it run on my newer vista laptop using a USB port, as I was having datalogging errors with my old laptop and it didn't support the newer megatune build, if I can do a bit mroe tunign I hope to run it at a local autocross this weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 Is this a v2.2 pcb or v3.0 pcb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted August 8, 2008 Author Share Posted August 8, 2008 2.2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 Here is something I recommend for everyone using a v2.2 pcb(that is all I use). I noticed after a bunch of testing for noise problems that the 2.2 pcb in no way connects the circuit board ground to the aluminum enclosure. The enclosure tends to gather a lot of noise and ends up causing weird behaviors. I verified the noise with a scope. I always solder two wires from the ground plane of the pcb to the big threaded lugs on the DB37 cable connector on that is placed on the PCB. You will notice that the connector itself is physically connected to the aluminum case with the two hex shaped screws. However, the big lugs that pop though the PCB don't connect to ground. You can grab your multi meter and measure the resistance from the case to PCB ground, there is no connection. So add a couple wires to ground everything and a ton of noise will be gone. I have seen it and documented it but I am not sure I posted about it before. The kind of problem you are seeing seems to me to fall in the bucket of flaky issues: bad solder joints, noise, bad components, bad power/gnd connections to MS, etc. FWIW I run the v2.2 pcb in my daily driver. I have changed code version and changed settings numerous times over the last two years and 40K miles without ever seeing a single problem with losing settings. Same thing with my friends daily driver and my rx7. So check over your board carefully and all connections for power and ground. Was the board soldered by a supplier or an individual? Hopefully you can find it, nothing is more aggravating than having to re-load on the side of the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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