QWKDTSN Posted December 10, 2001 Share Posted December 10, 2001 Hey guys... I've been looking all over the 'net and haven't been able to find a method of bleeding my clutch that will work. I'm using the plastic slave with the big ol' JTR adapter setup and -3 hose with a Howe aluminum 3/4" master cylinder (not sure yet if this is too small). Since all the parts are brand new, there was no fluid in the system at all when I started. I'm not sure where air will build up and how to get it out. I've tried holding the pedal to the floor and opening the bleed screw at the same time, didn't really work. I've tried opening the screw as the pedal is slowly being pushed down then closing it just before the bottom, didn't work. I've tried a combination of the two. Can anyone who's done this give me any hints? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted December 10, 2001 Share Posted December 10, 2001 The T5 slave has the bleeder screw in it. What I did was use a pressure bleeder and filled the entire clutch system from the bottom up. No air bubbles! If you don't have a pressure bleeder you could try an oiling can, buy a new one, fill it with brake fluid, and try filling from the bottom up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 10, 2001 Share Posted December 10, 2001 If it has a bleeder, put a plastic hose on the bleeder and submerge the other end of the plastic hose in a jar with brakefluid. Open the bleeder and have someone pump the pedal down and hold it. You'll see alot of bubbles each time. You then close the bleeder and repeat until you see no bubbles when you pump the pedal down. If it doesn't have a bleeder like the T56's, then its all about removing the slave from the tranny and slowly pumping in firmly on the slave cylinder, this cause the bubbles to be forced up, you then pull it back out and do it again until the bubbles stop. Good luck with it. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted December 11, 2001 Share Posted December 11, 2001 I used a Ford F 150 MC with the Camaro slave. Pump the MC and open the bleed screw on the slave. Note that the fluid will spray out and eat your paint so cover up any paint you want to keep. With the F 150 MC it took about half can of fluid to bleed out the air. Once bled I have a very smooth clutch and full movement of the T.O. arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted December 12, 2001 Share Posted December 12, 2001 I have bad news for you. Your clutch is bled. I re-bled my clutch several times before I got educated. THE PROBLEM IS THE 3/4" MASTER. You need to buy a 7/8", then everything will work fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted December 12, 2001 Share Posted December 12, 2001 Also check the hose and fittings. On many aftermarket cyls. (and the datsun stock part) There are 2 holes in the Slave Cyl., both with the same thread. The bleeder must be in the top (air rises in a liquid)holes and the pressure line must be in the bottom hole. Rambling digression follows: That's why we put a rear caliper marked "right" on the left side of the car if they change from behind the axle to front of the axle - to keep the bleeder pointing up^^. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted December 14, 2001 Share Posted December 14, 2001 More on those air bubbles and a Great visual reference - thanx Eric! Just saw a photo on ZPARTS of a genny original Scarab bellhousing. It uses the stock Datsun slave cyl, moved over from pass. to the drivers side. The funtion of the holes are switched - bleeder bacame the hose (lower) - hose became the bleeder (upper). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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