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HybridZ

stim ecu reversed,programing for V3


rvandivort

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Get a heatsink.

Or make one. Basically, do it pin by pin. Most soldering heat sinks are just alligator clips with a small "mouth" to fit in between pins. Use the same wattage as assembly, (probably no more then 15watts).

 

Use desoldering braid or a little vacuum bulb. I haven't seen the v3 stim, but be careful of lifting the little round holes on the PCB where you solder too (this can happen if you use too much heat).

 

To use the braid, put a nice piece of it on the solder joint and heat it with the iron. The solder should flow into it.

Mario

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I get a bad feeling from reading this thread. You seem to be running out of patience already and you haven't got the megasquirt ECU assembled yet. There is much more work to do and many things to understand with installation and tuning. Please do yourself a favor and slow down a little. Take the time to learn each piece. There should be tons and tons of info on the internet pertaining to soldering parts and removing them, explaining what solder wick is and how to use it, explaining the amount of heat to put in a part before destroying it. We don't mind answering questions, but we want to see you put in an honest effort as well. And please combine your posts into one next time (edit as mentioned). It is really annoying to read ten afterthoughts in different posts.

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No...not that bad Moby,I simply wanted to know how to do the cpu lifting if possible.I missed the solderwick thing after looking at the intro 5 times. My Bad. Saw the soldering thing. Also, the last thing I assembled was a Heathkit 21" color TV in 69`. didn`t need a wick back then...the terminals were fairly well spaced out..as well as Me!it lasted for 5 years until the Sony Triniton came.I have ordered another stim. Since doing this I have realized We are talking about different boards. I was looking for assembly instructions on the Megasquirt site and was totally mystified ...Only 5 LED`s? I have 12! Then I looked at the small piece of paper that came with the DIY stuff......it said go to (abbreviated) jbperf.com. This is the newer version that has sequential injector tests,as well as a switch that allows You to use different ignition tools. Nice installation instructions! The other problem was the terminal strips. Which end is up? I looked at the visuals presented and did the longer ones below..but they didn`t fit the jumpers. I cut off 1/8 on the jumpers and it was ok , but not good. Assuming, I did it backwords.So , to summarize, I am not going to "wick" out the cpu . To do so would probably destroy it.The guy in the soldering tutorial says use a lot of heat. The people here say no. So, a new one in on Monday and I`ll be more careful. Hell, I`ve spend more than 40 hours on the caved in roof on My Z and it`s almost done! Thanks, Roger

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Just finished the board from DIY..They are fast on delivery!! The experience I have gotten from this are as follows... The LED`s and the terminal strips are the more challenging part of the soldering experience.I followed the instructions for the LED`s ...I spaced them out and then soldered one lead of each at a time. For the terminals I used rubber bands to clamp the strips. The instructions talked about the problems with assembling the singles---but this worked in that case too.Also, In lieu of solder wicking, I used a sweep and dump method..heat the thing up and dump the excess solder on My 3/4 plywood temporary bench.Thanks , Roger

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  • 2 weeks later...

HI! Got the the desoldering stuff today from RS. 4 at a time (on the CPU)from the manager..for a 16 pin cpu.How stupid could I have been to not notice that there was a tray to be soldered...and then the insertion of the CPU. ♥♥♥♥ happens a lot..especially in My case! But, things work out.

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